Differences between HIF38 and HIF44 , etc
Discussion
I heard HIF are smaller bore. is that right ?
Is there any way to make HIF38 act like HIF44 or any better carb out there? im doing my car up on budget
If i get perfoemace exhaust like Stage 1 kit for HIF44 carb, so would it fit on HIF38 carb as temporany ?
What are good brake disc i can get ? also pad.
How do i change the disc as its completley different. do i undo the driveshaft bolt and capiler to take the disc off?
Thanks. sorry for soooooooo many question. Is there any good mini fourm ?
Jay
The HIF 38 is a 1 ½” carb that is normally fitted to the 998cc engines but may also be fitted some 1275 cc models, the HIF 44 is 1 ¾” and would normally go on engines of 1275cc plus.
The stage one kit will fit the 38 and 44 carb but will give different mixture in each as they are different sizes. Drop me an email if you need a HIF44, I may have a spare in my garage.
If you ring minishop or minispares they will tell you what discs they have available and the different prices, a set of grooved discs and some decent pads will be a good start, also worth making sure they rear brakes are working and adjusted properly, as the brakes will have lots of travel and not perform well if they aren’t
Yep undo the hub nut, and the 4 bolts securing the drive flange to the disc and the 2 nuts that hold the calliper on, you might do well to get yourself a Haynes manual as they are handy to have, it’ll also give you the different torque settings for the hub nuts etc.
The stage one kit will fit the 38 and 44 carb but will give different mixture in each as they are different sizes. Drop me an email if you need a HIF44, I may have a spare in my garage.
If you ring minishop or minispares they will tell you what discs they have available and the different prices, a set of grooved discs and some decent pads will be a good start, also worth making sure they rear brakes are working and adjusted properly, as the brakes will have lots of travel and not perform well if they aren’t
Yep undo the hub nut, and the 4 bolts securing the drive flange to the disc and the 2 nuts that hold the calliper on, you might do well to get yourself a Haynes manual as they are handy to have, it’ll also give you the different torque settings for the hub nuts etc.
HIF44 is a designation made up of different parts.
Cant remember what the H stands for, think its horizontal, IF means Integrated Float and the 38/44 is the width of the throat in milimetres.
Depending on your state of engine tune then carbs are of varying levels of effectiveness. The HIF44 will be fine on a 1275 up to a fairly wild state of tune. Carbs only really make a big difference at high revs so if the engine is in a standard state of tune, or even Stage 1 tuned then a carb isnt going to make a difference.
As for pads EBC Green Stuff are the ones to look for. Its a fairly simple task to remove the discs, exactly as Paul has described in fact!
Cant remember what the H stands for, think its horizontal, IF means Integrated Float and the 38/44 is the width of the throat in milimetres.
Depending on your state of engine tune then carbs are of varying levels of effectiveness. The HIF44 will be fine on a 1275 up to a fairly wild state of tune. Carbs only really make a big difference at high revs so if the engine is in a standard state of tune, or even Stage 1 tuned then a carb isnt going to make a difference.
As for pads EBC Green Stuff are the ones to look for. Its a fairly simple task to remove the discs, exactly as Paul has described in fact!
Plotloss is correct, H = horizontal(ish) as in the direction of airflow through the carb, I.F. is indeed integral float, used on post '89 minis, and dimention of choke size in mm.
Previous type of SU was HS2 or HS4, where S = Side mounted float chamber and the number is eighths of inch over 1 inch. So 4 = 4 eighths or 1/2 + 1 inch = 1 1/2 inch.
The simplest means of identification is check for a float chamber sticking off the side.
If you tell the vendor of the stage 1 kit they should be able to supply the correct needle for your carb. As the needle only costs £7 direct from Burlen's if you change carb to an HIF44 at a later date it's no big deal to get a new needle then.
Top tip from Paul V, do ensure your rear brakes are adjusted correctly before laying into the fronts.
Previous type of SU was HS2 or HS4, where S = Side mounted float chamber and the number is eighths of inch over 1 inch. So 4 = 4 eighths or 1/2 + 1 inch = 1 1/2 inch.
The simplest means of identification is check for a float chamber sticking off the side.
If you tell the vendor of the stage 1 kit they should be able to supply the correct needle for your carb. As the needle only costs £7 direct from Burlen's if you change carb to an HIF44 at a later date it's no big deal to get a new needle then.
Top tip from Paul V, do ensure your rear brakes are adjusted correctly before laying into the fronts.
As everybody says, the HIF carb is the "Horizontal Intergrated Float" Carb. Supposed to prevent fuel surge when cornering hard, amongst other things. Also tends to a bit more responsive than the HS4 and HS 6 carbs.
38 is the metric measurement equivilent of 1" 1/2 and 44 of the 1" 3/4
For a 998 stage 1 I would reccomend going with the HIF 38 and an AAU needle as a good starting point. Anything more than a Stage 1 then an AAA is a good choice. A HIF 44 is far too big for any 1 litre unless it is highly tuned. You will lose a lot of torque with it and only gain minimal at top end.
Disc wise, there are a number of aftermarket discs. ranging from vented, X drilles, slotted discs to plain 8.4" discs.
A good chice for a budget is standard discs with EBC Green Stuff pads. They take a while to wear in but are great once they do. Be sure to replace both at the same time or you could end up with brake judder or squealing.
To change the discs, you fist loosen off the nuts securing the drive flanges only enough so you don't have to clamp the disc, next loosen off the big nut, then loosen off the caliper bolts. Make sure you have somthing to supprot the caliper on as it won't touch the ground and you could risk breaking the break hose. Remove the caliper and then thake off the big nut and spacers. You can then remove the disc. it may require tapping with a rubber mallet. Remove the drive flange.
If you have metro discs on the drive flange the bolts and threads are of a different size to that of a mini disc. So make sure you have the correct discs. Then as the Hyanes manual famously says: "Refitting is reverse of removal." Make sure to torque everything up again.
Any other questions drop me a mail.
>> Edited by WildfireS3 on Thursday 11th September 11:28
38 is the metric measurement equivilent of 1" 1/2 and 44 of the 1" 3/4
For a 998 stage 1 I would reccomend going with the HIF 38 and an AAU needle as a good starting point. Anything more than a Stage 1 then an AAA is a good choice. A HIF 44 is far too big for any 1 litre unless it is highly tuned. You will lose a lot of torque with it and only gain minimal at top end.
Disc wise, there are a number of aftermarket discs. ranging from vented, X drilles, slotted discs to plain 8.4" discs.
A good chice for a budget is standard discs with EBC Green Stuff pads. They take a while to wear in but are great once they do. Be sure to replace both at the same time or you could end up with brake judder or squealing.
To change the discs, you fist loosen off the nuts securing the drive flanges only enough so you don't have to clamp the disc, next loosen off the big nut, then loosen off the caliper bolts. Make sure you have somthing to supprot the caliper on as it won't touch the ground and you could risk breaking the break hose. Remove the caliper and then thake off the big nut and spacers. You can then remove the disc. it may require tapping with a rubber mallet. Remove the drive flange.
If you have metro discs on the drive flange the bolts and threads are of a different size to that of a mini disc. So make sure you have the correct discs. Then as the Hyanes manual famously says: "Refitting is reverse of removal." Make sure to torque everything up again.
Any other questions drop me a mail.
>> Edited by WildfireS3 on Thursday 11th September 11:28
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