Odd jobs: What can I do while it's on axle stands?
Discussion
Got the car airborne now (many thanks to Doug for his stands!) and I probably won't be around during working hours to get the tyres swapped in the meantime. Are there any odd jobs that could be done whilst it's there?
Did think about giving the front chassis tubes an extra coat of paint, but it's sat about a foot off the ground at the moment and getting to them could be an issue!
So far there's only one thing on my list - check the fuel tank sender to see if I can restore connection...
Did think about giving the front chassis tubes an extra coat of paint, but it's sat about a foot off the ground at the moment and getting to them could be an issue!
So far there's only one thing on my list - check the fuel tank sender to see if I can restore connection...
It may be a good opportunity to check all suspension bushes for movement, have a check on the propshaft UJs whilst you can see them and check CV boots for cracks and splits, maybe even an oil and filter change. Check also that the clutch slave cyliner has a rubber boot on to stop the cylinder from corroding.
Just a few thoughts.
Just a few thoughts.
Check exhaust mounts, clamps and grounding marks to see if any need attention/replacing.
Take loads of photos from beneath while you can. saves going to look later if something pops up on this forum and you think "Hmmm... ?"
ARB to sump clearance (was that already mentioned ?)- sure sign that the engine mounts will need replacing if thegap is too small.
K
Take loads of photos from beneath while you can. saves going to look later if something pops up on this forum and you think "Hmmm... ?"
ARB to sump clearance (was that already mentioned ?)- sure sign that the engine mounts will need replacing if thegap is too small.
K
Ever since, I check their tightness each time car off ground.Barkychoc said:
Adjust handbrake if it needs doing!
That's a very goood point! Definitely needs doing. 
Umming and arring as to whether to bother with a fluid change. Normally I would, but the car has a pristine collection of dealer stamps and the TVR centre is just down the road beckoning me to continue that.
Barkychoc said:
Anyway what the hell's it doing on stands - it's August you know stands are a December job!
Very flat rear tyre - I didn't really trust my local garage to jack it, so it's up on stands and waiting for a mobile tyre fitter on Saturday. I'm working in London all week so no chance to enjoy it even if it was on the ground.After getting some suitable tyres on all it'll require is the hood re-jigging and missing exhaust bracket installed. I'm a bit of a masochist, so I'll probably use it as much in the winter as I have in the summer given a liberal coating of waxoyl.
Barkychoc said:
This is the adjuster on the V8S just behind the drivers side rear wheel.
I haven't adjusted mine yet so don't ask me how it works, but someone else will in a minute, it can't be that difficult!
The V8S has an automatic handbrake adjuster built into the caliper, just like the Griffith and Chimaera do. This has an internal ratchet which takes up slack caused by pad wear. There's also an adjuster on the cable which is just to take up stretch in the cable and should rarely need to be changed. The automatic adjuster in the caliper can get gummed up and may need cleaning. The automatic adjuster needs quite a lot of slack in the cable to work, so if you adjust the cable up too tight trying to improve the handbrake you may actually stop this automatic adjustment from occuring. Once this happens, you'll have to keep tightening the cable to take up pad wear and then find it gets completely stuck once the mechanism in the caliper runs out of travel. To avoid this make sure you have at least two clicks on the handbrake lever before it comes up tight, and be wary of trying to 'improve' things via the cable adjuster.I haven't adjusted mine yet so don't ask me how it works, but someone else will in a minute, it can't be that difficult!
(This was originally explainedt by one of Jool's tech tips, but any mistakes are my own.)
Barkychoc said:
This is the adjuster on the V8S just behind the drivers side rear wheel.
I haven't adjusted mine yet so don't ask me how it works, but someone else will in a minute, it can't be that difficult!
Oh yes it can, it's a TVR. The outer handrake casing acts as thread which the plastic nut turns on, you can't get a hand to it with the car built up. Spray plenty of lube on it and use a long screwdriver up the side of the diff to push the nut around. Can only really be done from underneath the car.I haven't adjusted mine yet so don't ask me how it works, but someone else will in a minute, it can't be that difficult!
Edited by Barkychoc on Tuesday 5th August 21:11
Tony
Chris71 said:
....and the V6S?
Same as the V8S, just turn the plastic knob to tighten. Again though there is an adjuster inside the brake drium that should be set first by applying pressure using the footbrake to move the "catch" along the "ratchett". Full procedure in Sierra Haynes manual (but it is similar for any car with rear drum brakes).Mark
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