can't get any gears.

[jim.2007]

since owning my K reg for the last 2 months i have had a "crunch" now and again getting into reverse gear.i have just got in it today and now can not get any gear at all,with the engine off i can put into gear but when turning the engine on and clutch fully pressed down i still have partial drive.any advice much welcomed.

[m4rk]

The crunch is a TVR feature

With the clutch pressed you must first visit another gear, eg 1st, and then select reverse, with clutch still pressed.

Even then sometimes, 1 in 10, reverse gear needs a bit of firmer shove and sometimes even a repeat of the above procedure. Mine has been like that since new.

There is no synchromesh on reverse (cost saving?) and so most owners learn that its best to make use of the synchromesh of another gear before selecting reverse therby avoiding the crunch. This gets the appropriate bits, engine and gearbox, spinning at matched speeds and so the gears mesh without the horribly crunch.

You could also try double declucthing although I have never tried that for selecting reverse See Google for info on exactly this is.

FYI ahead:
Briefly, double declutching is an old school technique for matching cog speeds when changing down a gear; from the days when there was no synchro in any gear. Race car drivers also used to use the method too, while at the same time toe-heel braking Sounds cool and if done well can make gear changing faster, even if there is synchro. Not sure if anyone still does this now though. I do it for fun sometimes when changing down. Sounds cool and is easier on the syncho.

Maybe someone with a more technically correct explaination will come along



edited to add:
I hope it helps but re-reading your post it sounds like you have something more serious. Could be worth pumping the clutch a few times to see if this helps. Also, check clutch fluid levels. Any sign of a leak in drivers footwell near clutch pedal?

Edited by m4rk on Tuesday 1st July 14:05

[anonymous-user]

m4rk said:

Briefly, double de-clutching is an old school technique for matching cog speeds when changing down a gear; from the days when there was no synchro in any gear. Race car drivers also used to use the method too, while at the same time too heel braking Sounds cool and if done well can make gear changing faster, even if there is synchro. Not sure if anyone still does this now though. I do it for fun sometimes when changing down. Sounds cool and is easier on the syncho.

I double de clutch all my down changes, always have done. Even do it when driving MrsU's Citroen C2.

[RFC1]

To answer the op's actual problem, sounds like either master or slave cylinder on way out...or even check slave cylinder mounting bolts,or could be dreaded clutch release arm about to give up the ghost, use search facility for this problem.

S_M.

[m4rk]

RFC1 said:

To answer the op's actual problem, sounds like either master or slave cylinder on way out...or even check slave cylinder mounting bolts,or could be dreaded clutch release arm about to give up the ghost, use search facility for this problem.

S_M.

Already got back on topic... but addmittedly at the end of my nerd stuff

Edited by m4rk on Tuesday 1st July 14:09

[Mark_G]

The best advice I got was to ALWAYS go through 3rd or 5th before reverse. Depress clutch, gear forward into 3rd/5th (don't declutch) then into reverse. Avoids any "crunch" of gears. Also, suggestion was to ALWAYS start the engine when in neutral.

[Bluebottle]

unrepentant said:

m4rk said:

Briefly, double de-clutching is an old school technique for matching cog speeds when changing down a gear; from the days when there was no synchro in any gear. Race car drivers also used to use the method too, while at the same time too heel braking Sounds cool and if done well can make gear changing faster, even if there is synchro. Not sure if anyone still does this now though. I do it for fun sometimes when changing down. Sounds cool and is easier on the syncho.

I double de clutch all my down changes, always have done. Even do it when driving MrsU's Citroen C2.

Me too, makes downshift smoother and you're back into the power quicker and more smoothly, I also do it when shifting up into 5th. Dunno if it's just my box or all T5 boxes, but 5th on mine can be a bh on track if I don't.

[m4rk]

Bluebottle said:

Me too, makes downshift smoother and you're back into the power quicker and more smoothly, I also do it when shifting up into 5th. Dunno if it's just my box or all T5 boxes, but 5th on mine can be a bh on track if I don't.

Anyone do the toe-heel braking too? I always found this rather dangerous to practise and difficult to master; but without it double declutching is just for posing! Isn't it?

I didn't think double de clutch was neccessary when going up the gears. 5th? The engine speed is already dropping ready for the next gear. Going down the gears then the throttle blip is aimed at getting the engine revs to be correct for the next gear. Or do I have it all wrong?

Edited by m4rk on Tuesday 1st July 16:06

[Bluebottle]

m4rk said:

Bluebottle said:

Me too, makes downshift smoother and you're back into the power quicker and more smoothly, I also do it when shifting up into 5th. Dunno if it's just my box or all T5 boxes, but 5th on mine can be a bh on track if I don't.

Anyone do the toe-heel braking too? I always found this rather dangerous to practise and difficult to master; but without it double declutching is just for posing! Isn't it?

I didn't think double de clutch was neccessary when going up the gears. 5th? The engine speed is already dropping ready for the next gear. Going down the gears then the throttle blip is aimed at getting the engine revs to be correct for the next gear. Or do I have it all wrong?

Edited by m4rk on Tuesday 1st July 16:06

I would normally agree with you and on normal road use I have no problem selecting 5th gear but, on track going from 4th to 5th at 115/120mph I found that it would often take two/three attempts to get it to go into the gate until i started DdC and it will drop straight in then.

Oh, and yes DdC combined with heel and toe on downshifts.

Edited by Bluebottle on Tuesday 1st July 17:58

Sorry Jim.2007 went O/T there for a moment, Have you checked your clutch fluid - level and for discoloration? Could be the master of slave cylinder seals if low or discoloured.
Could also be the clutch release bearing or the release fork ball joint - can be cecked thru the inspection hole in bellhousing.
Sudden loss of clutch isn't usually indicative of just clutch plate wear.

Edited by Bluebottle on Tuesday 1st July 18:07

[jim.2007]

Thankyou all for your advice-had a nightmare jacking up took ages,i finally got a good going over on the car,it ended up being low fluid level in resovoir-i literally put a shot's worth of fluid in and hey presto! sorted! noticed my leaking water pump has got alot worse-for anyone who needs to know it's off an SD1, picking up a new one tommorow £52! better than £315 quoted by a garage!! hopefully piece of p*ss to fit..!

[BLUETHUNDER]

RFC1 said:

To answer the op's actual problem, sounds like either master or slave cylinder on way out...or even check slave cylinder mounting bolts,or could be dreaded clutch release arm about to give up the ghost, use search facility for this problem.

S_M.

If the clutch release fork goes,the pedal will go rock solid with no movement at all.

[Bluebottle]

BLUETHUNDER said:

RFC1 said:

To answer the op's actual problem, sounds like either master or slave cylinder on way out...or even check slave cylinder mounting bolts,or could be dreaded clutch release arm about to give up the ghost, use search facility for this problem.

S_M.

If the clutch release fork goes,the pedal will go rock solid with no movement at all.

If its the fork and not the knuckle joint which went on mine..full pedal movement with no clutch release

[RFC1]

BLUETHUNDER said:

RFC1 said:

To answer the op's actual problem, sounds like either master or slave cylinder on way out...or even check slave cylinder mounting bolts,or could be dreaded clutch release arm about to give up the ghost, use search facility for this problem.

S_M.

If the clutch release fork goes,the pedal will go rock solid with no movement at all.

Spot on of course, I tried to cover all scenarios in 30secs !!!
S_M.

[jim.2007]

not a piece of P~~s! 2 hours to clean old gasket of housing, and water pipes a nightmare, had to take off at radiator end-stuck solid elswhere and no room to prise off.