Talking Torque
Talking Torque
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jpa

Original Poster:

218 posts

247 months

Monday 16th June 2008
quotequote all
Hi, In the final throws of putting the vixen on the road (once I get a brand new shcok replaced as is faulty!!!!!).

In the meantime, does anyone know what torque should be applied to the rear outer hub nut on the Vixen?

And while on the subject, does anyone know where all the torque settings could be found for the car (I am mainly thinking of chassis related stuff as opposed to engine). Is there any info on the net or in any publication? I assume some can be gleaned from owning various Triumph manuals but I also assume they do not cover everything.

Cheers
Paul

Seabass

193 posts

215 months

Monday 16th June 2008
quotequote all
In my understanding the rear outer hub nut secures the wheel flange to the quill shaft on a taper with woodruff key. I've assembled mine FT and secured the castle with a split pin. I have little or no idea what the torque should be or where you might find it.

The inside nut loads the bearings and crush tube.

I've taken other bolt torques from the TR 4-6 manuals or for the same size bolts in similar applications on other vehicles.

James

Edited by Seabass on Tuesday 17th June 09:01

heightswitch

6,322 posts

266 months

Monday 16th June 2008
quotequote all
Seabass said:
In my understanding the rear outer hub nut secures the wheel flange to the quill shaft on a taper with woodruff key. I've assembled mine FT and secured the castle with a split pin. The inside nut loads the bearings and crush tube. I have little or no idea what the torque should be or where you might find it. Other torques I've taken from the TR 4-6 manuals or torques for the same size bolts in similar applications on other vehicles.

James
You don't torque the hub nut. You are supposed to tighten and crush the tube to set a pre-load and then measure the end float which needs to be approx 4 thou. In reality it is often difficult to crush new tubes so most people re-assemble using the old tubes. The pre-load is also in reality a variable because it depends on where the castelated nut falls in relation to the split pin.

this article may help....... click on tech info then click on rear wheel bearings

(from John Uphams site)

http://www.tvrvixen.org.uk/

N.

jpa

Original Poster:

218 posts

247 months

Monday 16th June 2008
quotequote all
Thanks gents. Maybe I was not clear, I am talking about the outer nut that holds the hub with the wheel studs on.

I have already set up the inner one with the squash tube but the outer nut was not tight enough as the washer could move slightly and I have been led to believe that the torque required on this nut is quite high (this figure is 280 Nm on my quattro!). It is the torque for the outer nut that I need to know. This does not affect the squash tube does it? It just holds the wheel carrying hub to the outer quill shaft I believe?


Seabass

193 posts

215 months

Tuesday 17th June 2008
quotequote all
OK - I've edited my post above for clarity - I didn't mean to imply that the inner nut should be torqued - the sentence got moved in composition!

Who does the most work on Vixens - David Gerald?? Phone them and ask but I've heard they're not too forthcoming with info.

Or how about someone in the TVRCC do they have any of the old service documentation - or more to the point was there any??

JC

Edited by Seabass on Tuesday 17th June 09:14

jpa

Original Poster:

218 posts

247 months

Wednesday 18th June 2008
quotequote all
Thanks James.

I know there is a way of working it out from charts etc but my understanding of these is not quite there yet!