Broken Timing Cover Bolt

[Barkychoc]

As they say, a picture says a thousand words.
(Also posted on Chim forum)



Suggestions? That bolt is seized in the timing case.

Heat on it? (sounds risky to me).

Destroy the timing case to access the bolt then get another one?

All suggestions appreciated.

Chris

[tozerman]

A stud extractor ( the one you use with a 1/2" drive ratchet ) should do the job ok I think, mine cost me less than a tenner and has got me out of the sh*t a few times, good luck.
Cheers....tony..

PS a BIT of heat should help as the casing will expand more than the steel bolt

Edited by tozerman on Tuesday 20th May 17:48

[ketvrin]

a combination of things I think...

I would soak it in releasing oil a few times.
grind a couple of small flats on the bolt (near the base)
heat the case itself but just lightly
use a mole wrench on the flats you ground to ease the stud... maybe tapping the end a few times while it has heat and is under pressure of the wrench...

messy... good luck

Km

[Barkychoc]

I did originally round off the bolt head when I tried to undo it - so I got the file out and filed the head down and hammered a 12mm socket on. Then the little bd snapped straight off to what you see now.
My biggest concern if I try and turn it is that it snaps off in the block. It seems solid in the aluminium timing cover - I think the water pump has been leaking slightly into the bolt and it has rusted into the timing cover.
I managed to get the water pump off the stud but I had to use so much force that I don't want to reuse it (bearings are a bit rumbly anyway).

I did consider trying to weld a nut on the end - but thought this might generate far too much heat.

ARSE BUGGER TIT!

[ketvrin]

very eloquently put Chris if I might say so and a tried and tested method in these occassions that I completely forgot... swearing loudly at something often solves the problem I find... it appeared to work on monday night when the bloody propshaft would not go that last mm over the end of the splined shaft... I suddenly remembered some curses I hadnt used since motorbiking days ... and I'll probably find the thrown hammer later...

K

[AC Motors]

Heaps of plus gas and leave for several days, reapply more every day, try to scrape away the crap at the base of the stud so the plus gas can work in. You could even try drilling a very small pilot hole at 90' to the shaft in the casing and try to get some plus gas in the threads that way. Be very gentle if you do this not to hit the stud and/or snap the drill bit off. You can dress the small hole afterwards with chemical metal. Good luck.
Talking of hammer throwing Ketvrin, I remember helping my Dad out with his car when I was younger and one day he sent me next door to get the hammer back, when the old girl asked where is it? I replied 'in the greenhouse I think'. I was only about 10 and will never forget the look on her face !!.

Edited by AC Motors on Tuesday 20th May 18:46

[trickjohn]

Hi Chris,

Welcome to your hopefully short road of "I did'nt expect that to happen or wtf is that" - unforseeable spanners in the works.

I would treat with doses of WD40 - maybe drill through the side into the tread with a centre drill (1.5mm dia)and get some WD40 in there - it could be plugged after, weld a nut on the shaft, the extra heat can only help the situation, it should weaken the rust. Generally slowly get some heat into the alloy, give it a few taps with a hammer - put a walnut between the cheeks of your arse and undo the bolt - if the bolt breaks you will also crack the walnut.

If you know it is going to sheer you can get a stud extracting spray which will freeze the mild steel to -40 and it will break down the rust - (Ambersil 6150003601)

Best of Luck

Glad to see your cracking on (hopefully not the walnut)

Sean

[ketvrin]

trickjohn said:

- put a walnut between the cheeks of your arse and undo the bolt - if the bolt breaks you will also crack the walnut.

[PompeyTim]

I managed to break a bolt just over a week ago on what started out as one of those 'half hour jobs' to replace the thermostat. After much swearing I set about stripping down the top half of the engine. Once I finally had the inlet manifold on the bench I managed to remove the broken bolt by filing a couple of flats and then applying a few alternate cycles of blowtorch / WD40. I have to say that I was genuinely surprised at how easily it came out, to the extent that I think I could have done the job in-situ without the stripdown / rebuild hassles. I have a colleague who's restoring an E-type & he swears by this method....

[clarenceboddiger]

I agree with the alternate cycles of heat and WD40 (I've found plus Gas to be better) but there is a product called "Rostoff?" made by Wurth which like the one mentioned above freezes the bolt and makes it shrink relatively in the hole, I know many commercial garages use this on the Lambda sensors and there is a particular use on some diesel engines, may be heater plugs, anyway its supposed to be really good.
Turning Force and Shocking the bolt down its length is also usually effective, I suppose if you could weld a nut on you could try an Impact driver they have a 1/2 drive on most.

[Barkychoc]

Guys - thanks for all your advice.
I'd decided that I've got to stop getting side tracked - and with that bolt snapping I've given myself a serious talking to that I have to focus on getting the chassis done and nothing else.
For now I have reassembled the engine (and amazingly no spare parts!) and am focussing on sorting the chassis.

I've had the welder out but everything turned to ste today so I've packed in and will have another go tomorrow (I did avoid throwing the hammer though!)

I'm signed off work till 9th June so I may aswell get something useful done!

C

[ketvrin]

Barkychoc said:

I've had the welder out but everything turned to ste today so I've packed in and will have another go tomorrow (I did avoid throwing the hammer though!)

C

what about the walnut ?

[Barkychoc]

Never mind walnuts if that bolt snaps off in the block I'll be cracking flaming coconuts

[clarenceboddiger]

Note to self,"Remember not to accept walnuts off ayone at S Club"

Edited by clarenceboddiger on Thursday 22 May 05:39

[greymrj]

Hi Chris, doesn't always work but its worked a few times for me: you've got a MIG, weld a larger sized nut over the broken bolt. The heat from the weld seems to help break the corrosion. Then gently work the bolt both ways a little at a time. I've managed to get a weld on a bolt with only 3mm showing. I do agree with gentle heat and WD40 a few times first.

[spludge]

Gentle heat and Plus-gas or WD40 is what I'd try as well, do it a few times and take it easy when trying to turn the bolt. If the bolt does shear, you should be able to drill out and helicoil in situ so all is not lost.

K

[Barkychoc]

Got the blighter out - I've been putting plus gas on it for the last few days, but still couldn't get any grip on it to turn it. My neighbour popped round and asked if I wanted to try his small stilsons - so we had a go and after holding our breath it came undone.

No walnuts required!

Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 29th May 18:57

[spludge]

Barkychoc said:

small stilsons

A very useful tool, good for plumbing too. Well done.

K

Edited by spludge on Friday 30th May 00:17

[AC Motors]

Nice one.