Discussion
Hello everybody!
We have a troubled V6 with 3 Weber 44DCNF at home, and I desperately need some opinion on it.
The motor have very strong fuel smell in the motor oil. And the throttle response and torque SUCKS. Big time.
The motor was recently "Re-assembled" with all new sealings, bushing and valve adjusted, but the rings, pistons, and liners are not changed. (25000 original km since 1983)
The motor starts and idles quite smoothly (at around 600rpm on tach, is there alternative way that I can check this) no matter if the motor is cold or hot. However, at cold, it will tend to stall if I try to give the gas padel a bump. The exhaust have loud Bangs at around 2000RPM. The throttle response is slow like hell and the car will stall starting out of an uphill.
Carb running way too rich?? Incorrect float setting?? Or something more serious?? Are we able to adjust the fuel mixtures that far off using stock jets?? The only mod to the car is high flow air filter~
Thanks in advance.
We have a troubled V6 with 3 Weber 44DCNF at home, and I desperately need some opinion on it.
The motor have very strong fuel smell in the motor oil. And the throttle response and torque SUCKS. Big time.
The motor was recently "Re-assembled" with all new sealings, bushing and valve adjusted, but the rings, pistons, and liners are not changed. (25000 original km since 1983)
The motor starts and idles quite smoothly (at around 600rpm on tach, is there alternative way that I can check this) no matter if the motor is cold or hot. However, at cold, it will tend to stall if I try to give the gas padel a bump. The exhaust have loud Bangs at around 2000RPM. The throttle response is slow like hell and the car will stall starting out of an uphill.
Carb running way too rich?? Incorrect float setting?? Or something more serious?? Are we able to adjust the fuel mixtures that far off using stock jets?? The only mod to the car is high flow air filter~
Thanks in advance.
This sounds like more than one problem.
First off, do a check over and MAKE sure that theres no vacuum pipes off or split.
Next do a check on the ignition timing (base idle) to ensure its correct, and using a strobe light to look at the advance characteristics under slow acceleration (engine running out of gear).
If the above are correct then focus your attention on the carb.
Youll need to get an overhaul book to check it all correctly.
Oh BTW, the oil smells of fuel? Piston rings ok?
Change the oil as itll break down rapidly now that its contaminated.
First off, do a check over and MAKE sure that theres no vacuum pipes off or split.
Next do a check on the ignition timing (base idle) to ensure its correct, and using a strobe light to look at the advance characteristics under slow acceleration (engine running out of gear).
If the above are correct then focus your attention on the carb.
Youll need to get an overhaul book to check it all correctly.
Oh BTW, the oil smells of fuel? Piston rings ok?
Change the oil as itll break down rapidly now that its contaminated.
Thanks guys. I will check all that.
The previous owner who re-assembles the motor uses "HAND MADE" gaskets and I hope he didn't do that with the head gaskets.... I will ask him....
So, what should I do if the compression is too high? Retard the timing? Another friend of mine told me that the fuel smell of the motor is because the car was not driven at all. The previous owner has it as an display and only warm it up once in a while....
The previous owner who re-assembles the motor uses "HAND MADE" gaskets and I hope he didn't do that with the head gaskets.... I will ask him....
So, what should I do if the compression is too high? Retard the timing? Another friend of mine told me that the fuel smell of the motor is because the car was not driven at all. The previous owner has it as an display and only warm it up once in a while....
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