rebuild update

[dogfather]

with the engine stripped afew weeks ago it was time to go shopping for some new parts. in my previous thread a guy called CHUGGABOOM repied to my topic stating that he had a Janspeed head i may be interested in along with a few other parts, so i private messaged him to arranged a visit to see what he had. I took the 90 mile trip to his house last saturday and BOY... this guy has got enough bits to make us all an engine each ( no joke). i came home with more than i expected which included : Janspeed head (looks like its had a lot of work done to it i.e skimmed and polished inside).Larger valves and springs, push rods, a set of offset rockers, a crank which took me about an hour to persuade him to sell me(reground,hardend and balanced great condition), duplex timing gears and chain and the slightly deeper timing case to suit, a 15/62 diff, a lightend fly wheel and clutch assembley (none verto type) and i think thats about it. If i had more money with me i could have stayed all weekend. Hes a great guy and really looked after me so ill be going back for more bits i couldnt afford. highly recommended guy to speak to if you need any bits. a few days have passed and everything is cleaned and wrapped up now ready for the build. what i want to do now is changed final drive gear so what would be the best way to lock the gearbox so i can undo the nut holding the gear on advice will be great thanks .

Ive got lots of pics but as you may know my camera is st so they are a little blurred. chow for now

[Snake the Sniper]

You can lock the box by selecting IIRC 2nd and 4th by pushing the forks about. That'll lock it solid.
Just in case no-one's said it to you yet, clean everything twice before you put it anywhere near the block! Then clean it again.

[guru_1071]

to lock the box you need to remove the side covers (i guess you have anyway if your swopping the diff) and remove the little plunger, spring and ball.

then (this is easier if you remove the diff case and the diff, with the box out of gear waggle the little selector rod and tun it until it disengages from the selector barrel. once thats free you will be able to knock the synco hubs and lock the box into 4th and 1st (dont lock it into 4 / 2, or 1 / 3 as sometimes due to the gear ratios and the torque you will pull teeth from the gears - only use 4 / 1!!!

id stick a decent centre oil pick up pipe in whilst you have the box in bits - its not hard to do.

sounds like its going to be a good one!

[dogfather]

thanks for that info guys, i would like to know whats the best thing to clean the block out and the componants befor i build. Im using degreaser then petrol on the componants up to now (is this ok). im about to clean out the block so i thought id check befor i went ahead with it.

Also i need to clean the bores, there in good condition due to having a good clean up a few years ago by a buddy but because its been sitting there in my shed for years there is a ring of rust at the top of the bore where the pistons had stopped, i dont want to damage the bores so any advice on this please would be great. thanks again.

[Chuggaboom]

Too kind dogfather...too kind.

Flattery will get u places....but not reducing the price on that Weber carb.

[FWDRacer]

He doesn't need a weber a carb ...