Question re. Undertray

[C&C]

Anyone know exactly what the main undertray is made of? (The bit under the seats).

Am looking at getting it removed and re-fitted as several of the rivets have corroded meaning water gets in from underneath if driving in the wet.

Had thought about replacing them with stainless steel rivets, but have been advised that if the undertray is aluminium this can cause a reaction between the 2 metals...

So, if anyone knows for certain what it's made of, it would be most helpful.

Thanks,

Conrad.

[gaz 7404]

Alloy matey.
Few people on here done this already, make sure you use a good weather sealant between the steel (chassis) and alloy (floor pan) and remember best results for longevity is in the prepping so the cleaner it is the better ie: clean off any rust, loose paint and treat with a rust treatment and paint before re-assembling. Gar.

Edited by gaz 7404 on Tuesday 26th February 21:09

[C&C]

gaz 7404 said:

Alloy matey.
Few people on here done this already, make sure you use a good weather sealant between the steel (chassis) and alloy (floor pan) and remember best results for longevity is in the prepping so the cleaner it is the better ie: clean off any rust, loose paint and treat with a rust treatment and paint before re-assembling. Gar.

Thanks for this. Do you know what alloy? Also do you know whether stainless steel rivets can be used without danger of a reaction? If not, what are the best rivets to use?

Cheers,

Conrad.

[Biggriff]

Best to use Stainless m8 3/4 inch screws. We rustproofed the chassis and fiteed 675 new screws so we can get it all to bits again if necessary.

[AMG Merc]

Has anyone considered/fitted a plastic self-expanding flat-headed stud instead of stainless screws. These usually fit very tight and would pop out easily with a bit of leveraging of the plate (and wouldn't corrode) and, if destroyed on removal, could be easily replaced.

[Jenx]

Being a chippy I was thinking of using 3" nails (Galvanised, of course) and clenching the ends over...they'd never fall out!

[NobleGuy]

Biggriff said:

Best to use Stainless m8 3/4 inch screws. We rustproofed the chassis and fiteed 675 new screws so we can get it all to bits again if necessary.

Must admit this sounds like a job I might do in the next couple of months.
If I get a ramp. Presumably removal of the plates makes replacing the long coolant hose easy too.
Mine have started to leak a little around the turbo connections - one just split and broke when I wiggled it. Has anyone else noticed the metal turbo water pipes rusting? Are these easy to replace or should I treat them before they get worse?

[node]

NobleGuy said:

Biggriff said:

Best to use Stainless m8 3/4 inch screws. We rustproofed the chassis and fiteed 675 new screws so we can get it all to bits again if necessary.

Must admit this sounds like a job I might do in the next couple of months.
If I get a ramp. Presumably removal of the plates makes replacing the long coolant hose easy too.
Mine have started to leak a little around the turbo connections - one just split and broke when I wiggled it. Has anyone else noticed the metal turbo water pipes rusting? Are these easy to replace or should I treat them before they get worse?

i noticed some rust around one of my turbo water pipes. I had a leak on that very connection which im guessing led to the rust around the pipe. I had the garage replace the hoses but the rust wasnt removed. I'll remove the rust one day but I suppose the best thing to do is pull the water hose off, block the end of the turbo hose with something so nothing can fall inside and gently remove the rust.

[C&C]

Biggriff said:

Best to use Stainless m8 3/4 inch screws. We rustproofed the chassis and fiteed 675 new screws so we can get it all to bits again if necessary.

I suggested this to couple of good mechanic friends, and they both were of the opinion that screws would not be a good way to go as they would shake themselves out with the vibration over time?

[AMG Merc]

[quote=C&C]

Biggriff said:

Best to use Stainless m8 3/4 inch screws. We rustproofed the chassis and fiteed 675 new screws so we can get it all to bits again if necessary.

I suggested this to couple of good mechanic friends, and they both were of the opinion that screws would not be a good way to go as they would shake themselves out with the vibration over time?

Then back to my suggestion above?

[node]

I know there are a lot of holes, but instead of using screws/rivots would these be just as good to use? as its quick release, it could work out to be convenient if you need to keep removing the tray.

http://www.tridentracing.co.uk/info/fastqr.htm
http://www.lasaero.com/category/c-fasteners

[Biggriff]

They seem ok after sustained abuse so far.

[NobleGuy]

Biggriff said:

...after sustained abuse...

[sean_goodman]

duralac is a product used in military/ aircraft industry as an agent to use between dis simular metals to avoid chemical reactions.

it is painted on, its the yellow stuff some of you have probably seen around airframes etc. rivets are also dipped in it prior to use

should be available cheaply though decent hardware stores or via google

thats what i used on mine

[Biggriff]

You should see the roads in Norfolk. Potholes like the Grand Canyon.

[joust]

node said:

I know there are a lot of holes, but instead of using screws/rivots would these be just as good to use? as its quick release, it could work out to be convenient if you need to keep removing the tray.
http://www.tridentracing.co.uk/info/fastqr.htm
http://www.lasaero.com/category/c-fasteners

At those prices you'd be looking at over £1000 to hold the whole thing on...

J

[F.C.]

node said:

I know there are a lot of holes, but instead of using screws/rivots would these be just as good to use? as its quick release, it could work out to be convenient if you need to keep removing the tray.

http://www.tridentracing.co.uk/info/fastqr.htm
http://www.lasaero.com/category/c-fasteners

You would be a month of Sundays fitting that lot! Plus I suspect with the extra material you would have to remove from the chassis to accommodate the "catchplates" you may end up with a weakened chassis.
Oh and your car will weigh tons
F.C.

[AMG Merc]

I was thinking something like the Plastic Rivet...

http://www.skiffy.com/en/rivets.htm?hpc=UK-pdfaste...

[joust]

I woudln't trust an undertray to bits of plastic. If it came off at speed you'd wished it was screwed on.....

J

[node]

i know guys that was an OTT way of holding the tray on.

This maybe this is the way to go though -
http://www.ondrives.com/products.asp?recnumber=725

The rivets are known as 'blind rivets'