550 clutch life
Discussion
Anyone know what the average life of a 550 clutch is ? My car has done nearly done 19k and it looks like it needs replacing ( confirmed by Verdi's ). Based on other threads this seems about right but I was just wondering what the average was.
Also I have done just over 3k since I took ownership and the car was given a major 18k service before I got it. Do you think the fact it was on its way out should have been detected at that point ?
Frostie
Also I have done just over 3k since I took ownership and the car was given a major 18k service before I got it. Do you think the fact it was on its way out should have been detected at that point ?
Frostie
What a total sod. Probably not sufficient numbers 550 owners on this site to give you the info Frostie; better off posting on FerrariChat or Ferrari Club of America.
Nothing I've heard so far would indicate you get much warning that your clutch is about to fail- the usual thing is that it starts slipping. So I'm not sure there would have been adequate warning of it 3K miles ago. The only thing I can think of is a heavy clutch action, either as a result of the clutch being about to fail, or its being set up incorrectly when supplied such that wear was accelerated.
Mine has a few fewer BHP running through it and is 20K miles old. Still seems OK- I went through the sequence suggested by 360NGT and it appears healthy.
Nothing I've heard so far would indicate you get much warning that your clutch is about to fail- the usual thing is that it starts slipping. So I'm not sure there would have been adequate warning of it 3K miles ago. The only thing I can think of is a heavy clutch action, either as a result of the clutch being about to fail, or its being set up incorrectly when supplied such that wear was accelerated.
Mine has a few fewer BHP running through it and is 20K miles old. Still seems OK- I went through the sequence suggested by 360NGT and it appears healthy.
Thanks Kev.
Funny thing is I tried the 360NGT test a while back and it seemed ok. According to Carl Verdi, average is about 14k on a 550 and the bearings tend to go ( what has happened to mine ). He reckons this could be its second
Expense I could have done without, but around the 1K mark, so not too bad.
Frostie
Funny thing is I tried the 360NGT test a while back and it seemed ok. According to Carl Verdi, average is about 14k on a 550 and the bearings tend to go ( what has happened to mine ). He reckons this could be its second
Expense I could have done without, but around the 1K mark, so not too bad.
Frostie
bebbesen said:This:
What is the 360-GT test??
Mine is getting a little hard (clutch that is...)
;o)
The pedal "feel" can be affected by air in the line. This can happen for many reasons (poor seals, low fluid level, or just plain poor mechanic-ing after a belt change/engine out disconnection). I'd say if the biting point has got higher, the air is now gone from the system, and is a sign of being properly bled. There should be minimal free play, then positive pedal feel. If it's too spongy at the top of it's travel, that's usually air in the line.
To test for clutch slip, accelerate full throttle in 3rd from about 3000rpm. Feel the engine get to max torque (about 4500rpm), then briefly prod the clutch pedal with your left foot, while keeping the throttle planted. The revs should only rise slightly if at all, and then settle into smooth acceleration again. If the revs flare up and stay up, and acceleration slows, your clutch is slipping.
You'll be able to trundle around for quite a while if it is slipping, so don't panic. Just drive it carefully avoiding slip and get it fixed at your convenience.
Too much slip will overheat and damage the flywheel surfaces.
456mgt said:
bebbesen said:
What is the 360-GT test??
Mine is getting a little hard (clutch that is...)
;o)
This:
The pedal "feel" can be affected by air in the line. This can happen for many reasons (poor seals, low fluid level, or just plain poor mechanic-ing after a belt change/engine out disconnection). I'd say if the biting point has got higher, the air is now gone from the system, and is a sign of being properly bled. There should be minimal free play, then positive pedal feel. If it's too spongy at the top of it's travel, that's usually air in the line.
To test for clutch slip, accelerate full throttle in 3rd from about 3000rpm. Feel the engine get to max torque (about 4500rpm), then briefly prod the clutch pedal with your left foot, while keeping the throttle planted. The revs should only rise slightly if at all, and then settle into smooth acceleration again. If the revs flare up and stay up, and acceleration slows, your clutch is slipping.
You'll be able to trundle around for quite a while if it is slipping, so don't panic. Just drive it carefully avoiding slip and get it fixed at your convenience.
Too much slip will overheat and damage the flywheel surfaces.
oooooooohhh... I'm impressed.... they don't call you "Doctor" for nothing do they????...
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