Lifting body off a Taimar
Discussion
Thanks to those that have posted in great detail on what to undo/angle grind as preparation to remove a Taimar body I think I am (nearly) ready...
The last few lines on the "Taimar body removal info" post say
I tried a manual lift myself to check the back end was clear and can confirm that the body is firkin heavy - my worry if I use a hoist is that I lift it in the wrong places and either damage something thru putting pressure in the wrong spot or assume some part is stronger than it actually is and damage the body under it's own weight.
Eg it looks like I could build a small frame, where the fuel tank was, to lift the back, and then get straps round the whole body to lift it some more..
Oh, and the front and rear windscreens are already removed, "just in case" (TM)
Any words of advice appreciated
Thanks,
Nick
The last few lines on the "Taimar body removal info" post say
GAjon said:
18) Have at least 5 people – 2 at the rear wheel arches, 2 at the front, 1 supervising, watching, ready to take care of the wire still connected somewhere.
19) Lift the back of body up first to a point above the top of the back, across car, chassis rails.
20) Lift the front slightly, and then the whole thing back down the taper of the main top chassis rails (front to back of car). You can then rest the body on the back cross chassis rails and have a breather. (See picture)
21) Now all four corners should be lifted up and the 5th person can wheel chassis out from under the body. (It’s easier than four people trying to walk sideways with the body).
22) Brew up (Oh put the body down)
but I was wondering if anyone had any experience of substituting the 5 people for a hoist? Where would be the best places to put ropes/straps under the body to lift it with? 19) Lift the back of body up first to a point above the top of the back, across car, chassis rails.
20) Lift the front slightly, and then the whole thing back down the taper of the main top chassis rails (front to back of car). You can then rest the body on the back cross chassis rails and have a breather. (See picture)
21) Now all four corners should be lifted up and the 5th person can wheel chassis out from under the body. (It’s easier than four people trying to walk sideways with the body).
22) Brew up (Oh put the body down)
I tried a manual lift myself to check the back end was clear and can confirm that the body is firkin heavy - my worry if I use a hoist is that I lift it in the wrong places and either damage something thru putting pressure in the wrong spot or assume some part is stronger than it actually is and damage the body under it's own weight.
Eg it looks like I could build a small frame, where the fuel tank was, to lift the back, and then get straps round the whole body to lift it some more..
Oh, and the front and rear windscreens are already removed, "just in case" (TM)
Any words of advice appreciated
Thanks,
Nick
Edited by status on Sunday 17th February 11:08
I lifted the body of my 3000M back onto the chassis (almost) singlehanded using a gantry-type engine hoist. The front and rear screens were in place, and they didn't pop out, so I guess the body didn't distort too much. At least with a Taimar you can remove the tailgate completely.
As for lifting points, I put rope through the rear wheel arches from side to side, with plenty of cushioning where the rope made contact with actual wheelarch to prevent paint damage. I think I used the holes in the bulkhead for the rope lfting the front end, or maybe the holes at the chassis attachment points in the footwells. Sorry, it was a long time ago (1986 or thereabouts). All went well until the body was almost on, when it started to slip sideways. Luckily, some lads who were watching from a few houses away saw what was happening and came to the rescue. It was far too heavy for me to stop it on my own.
So yes, it can be done, but needs a lot of thought beforehand as to what might go wrong and how you will deal with any problems mid-lift.
As for lifting points, I put rope through the rear wheel arches from side to side, with plenty of cushioning where the rope made contact with actual wheelarch to prevent paint damage. I think I used the holes in the bulkhead for the rope lfting the front end, or maybe the holes at the chassis attachment points in the footwells. Sorry, it was a long time ago (1986 or thereabouts). All went well until the body was almost on, when it started to slip sideways. Luckily, some lads who were watching from a few houses away saw what was happening and came to the rescue. It was far too heavy for me to stop it on my own.
So yes, it can be done, but needs a lot of thought beforehand as to what might go wrong and how you will deal with any problems mid-lift.
status said:
Thanks to those that have posted in great detail on what to undo/angle grind as preparation to remove a Taimar body I think I am (nearly) ready...
The last few lines on the "Taimar body removal info" post say
I tried a manual lift myself to check the back end was clear and can confirm that the body is firkin heavy - my worry if I use a hoist is that I lift it in the wrong places and either damage something thru putting pressure in the wrong spot or assume some part is stronger than it actually is and damage the body under it's own weight.
Eg it looks like I could build a small frame, where the fuel tank was, to lift the back, and then get straps round the whole body to lift it some more..
Oh, and the front and rear windscreens are already removed, "just in case" (TM)
Any words of advice appreciated
Thanks,
Nick
The last few lines on the "Taimar body removal info" post say
GAjon said:
18) Have at least 5 people – 2 at the rear wheel arches, 2 at the front, 1 supervising, watching, ready to take care of the wire still connected somewhere.
19) Lift the back of body up first to a point above the top of the back, across car, chassis rails.
20) Lift the front slightly, and then the whole thing back down the taper of the main top chassis rails (front to back of car). You can then rest the body on the back cross chassis rails and have a breather. (See picture)
21) Now all four corners should be lifted up and the 5th person can wheel chassis out from under the body. (It’s easier than four people trying to walk sideways with the body).
22) Brew up (Oh put the body down)
but I was wondering if anyone had any experience of substituting the 5 people for a hoist? Where would be the best places to put ropes/straps under the body to lift it with? 19) Lift the back of body up first to a point above the top of the back, across car, chassis rails.
20) Lift the front slightly, and then the whole thing back down the taper of the main top chassis rails (front to back of car). You can then rest the body on the back cross chassis rails and have a breather. (See picture)
21) Now all four corners should be lifted up and the 5th person can wheel chassis out from under the body. (It’s easier than four people trying to walk sideways with the body).
22) Brew up (Oh put the body down)
I tried a manual lift myself to check the back end was clear and can confirm that the body is firkin heavy - my worry if I use a hoist is that I lift it in the wrong places and either damage something thru putting pressure in the wrong spot or assume some part is stronger than it actually is and damage the body under it's own weight.
Eg it looks like I could build a small frame, where the fuel tank was, to lift the back, and then get straps round the whole body to lift it some more..
Oh, and the front and rear windscreens are already removed, "just in case" (TM)
Any words of advice appreciated
Thanks,
Nick
Edited by status on Sunday 17th February 11:08
Do it the easy way.
Go to screwfix and they sell an electric hoist for £75
Suspend hoist from a scaffy pole, (if your shell is fully trimmed etc then I would use something more substantial or slide a smaller diameter pole up the inside. Then you can either fit 4 racing harness eyebolts with big spreader washers on the wheelarches and footwells (if Screens are out) or you can sling under the sills If screens are still in.
The beauty of this method is that you can work safely alone and lift and drop the body as frequently as you wish
I will take a picture of the hoist and post in a tick. Note I also have 4 builders joist hangers spanning the garage so you can put some timbers in and sit the bodyshell up a height
N.
Neil.
Edited by heightswitch on Sunday 17th February 17:34
Here we go.
I lifted with screens out from tops of wheelarches (fibreglass is about 10mm thick and the floor pans at front. 4 ropes then pass through front and rear screen apertures up to attachment point.
some shots of hoist, scaffy pole did flex a little with a bare vixen shell so really I would look to something more beefy. Hoist is more than man enough though
I lifted with screens out from tops of wheelarches (fibreglass is about 10mm thick and the floor pans at front. 4 ropes then pass through front and rear screen apertures up to attachment point.
some shots of hoist, scaffy pole did flex a little with a bare vixen shell so really I would look to something more beefy. Hoist is more than man enough though
Thanks Neil (and Paul) for your advice. I have an RSJ and roller hoist already fitted so I'm off to source some eyebolts and big spreader washers, as I might need to pop the body off again if the current standard driveshafts and axle are "insufficient" for my needs 
That really is a nice clean looking garage bye the way, puts mine to shame!!
Will let you all know how I get on
cheers
Nick
That really is a nice clean looking garage bye the way, puts mine to shame!!
Will let you all know how I get on
cheers
Nick
Quick update, the body is now successfully off and lying alongside the chassis 
Couldn't source eye bolts locally so I just popped some nylon rope thru the
rear seatbelt holes at the top of the wheelarch and then thru some bits of
wood to spread the weight and tied knots. Did the same thru the bolt holes
at the front of each seat in the floor, again with wood under to spread the load.
Took an hour or so to get the ropes the right length, lift the back up enough
to clear the chassis and then lift front and back simultaneously, as I had to
keep checking nothing was attached/fouling (and SWMBO had blocked most of my
spare space with empty cardboard boxes
) but I'm glad to say I'm done.
Would have been easier with a nice electric hoist like Neil has, but my chain
hoist did the job, albeit slower.
Tomorrow I'll take a closer look at the chassis - got at least two nasty bits
and I swept up a couple of pounds of rust off the floor
Once again, thanks for all the suggestions.
Nick
Couldn't source eye bolts locally so I just popped some nylon rope thru the
rear seatbelt holes at the top of the wheelarch and then thru some bits of
wood to spread the weight and tied knots. Did the same thru the bolt holes
at the front of each seat in the floor, again with wood under to spread the load.
Took an hour or so to get the ropes the right length, lift the back up enough
to clear the chassis and then lift front and back simultaneously, as I had to
keep checking nothing was attached/fouling (and SWMBO had blocked most of my
spare space with empty cardboard boxes
) but I'm glad to say I'm done.Would have been easier with a nice electric hoist like Neil has, but my chain
hoist did the job, albeit slower.
Tomorrow I'll take a closer look at the chassis - got at least two nasty bits
and I swept up a couple of pounds of rust off the floor
Once again, thanks for all the suggestions.
Nick
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