thanks oldboyracer (head gasket)
Discussion
As you probly read in my post lastnite i had a problem loosing power and a loud noise coming from the carb. My problem was correctly diagnosed by oldboy racer, the gasket had blown between 2-3. Thanx for that mate.
looking at all this on the floor i shit myself as this is my 1st time doing this operation
unfotunatly i didnt see coopermans post stating that i should get a certain black gasket but this is the 1 i fitted
thankfully i managed to put it all back together (properly) after restudding the head for manifold nuts and she started up straight away and she ticked over just fine. just as i took a sigh of releaf i noticed a water leek coming from the blower inside the car i think it maybe the matrix aaaaaaaaargh if its not 1 thing its the other. thanx for your help again guys but any advice on this leak from matrix, is it possible that i may have snagged a hose under the bonnet and its come loose from the matrix. thanx in advance..neale..
looking at all this on the floor i shit myself as this is my 1st time doing this operation
unfotunatly i didnt see coopermans post stating that i should get a certain black gasket but this is the 1 i fitted
thankfully i managed to put it all back together (properly) after restudding the head for manifold nuts and she started up straight away and she ticked over just fine. just as i took a sigh of releaf i noticed a water leek coming from the blower inside the car i think it maybe the matrix aaaaaaaaargh if its not 1 thing its the other. thanx for your help again guys but any advice on this leak from matrix, is it possible that i may have snagged a hose under the bonnet and its come loose from the matrix. thanx in advance..neale..
Edited by dogfather on Saturday 9th February 22:01
Edited by dogfather on Saturday 9th February 22:05
Edited by dogfather on Sunday 10th February 10:11
Sometimes some water runs down the outside of the heater hoses and then you think it's the heater matrix. However, if the car steams up its screen when you run it hot with the heater and blower on 'screen', then it's probably the heater matrix. 'Mayfair Kid' (my Grandson) had one go last week in his car, but we changed it in about an hour as it's quite easy to do once the heater box is out of the car.
Well done on the head gasket. My other tip is to bolt the manifolds on and not use those horrible 5/16" unf studs. Then if ever the head has to come off again, there is no need to remove either the inlet or exhaust manifolods or disconnect the exhaust down pipe. You just take out the bolts, push back slightly on the carb and pull the head off straight upwards. It makes it so easy. The bolt length is quite critical and from memory you need a 1.25" x 5/16" UNK hex head bolts.
Well done on the head gasket. My other tip is to bolt the manifolds on and not use those horrible 5/16" unf studs. Then if ever the head has to come off again, there is no need to remove either the inlet or exhaust manifolods or disconnect the exhaust down pipe. You just take out the bolts, push back slightly on the carb and pull the head off straight upwards. It makes it so easy. The bolt length is quite critical and from memory you need a 1.25" x 5/16" UNK hex head bolts.
Well done dogfather - there's a good sense of satisfaction in doing this type of thing yourself isn't there?
And another golden nugget of info from cooperman! (UNK? - I've heard of UNC & UNF) Wonder if this'll work on my MPi - I'm hoping to be playing with my head (!) in the not too distant........
And another golden nugget of info from cooperman! (UNK? - I've heard of UNC & UNF) Wonder if this'll work on my MPi - I'm hoping to be playing with my head (!) in the not too distant........
Edited by Cooper1999 on Tuesday 12th February 18:16
Thanks guys, im really pleased with myself . Ive not only saved money but ive learnt a lot too, ive got a lot more confidence now so i can get on with what ever needs to be done (no more machanics to rip me off). the whole operation cost me about £4.50, i had the head gasket and water pump gaskets in the car and all i had to get was a manifold gasket , studs and lots of new nuts. when returning from mini parts i was iching to get it finish, with only the exhuast pipes and studs and the carb to fit when i discovered the new studs didnt fit the head (nooooooooooooooooooooooooo) and mini parts had just closed.
Luckily for me, the head youve seen in my previous topic was complete with good studs which fitted just fine. But i wish id spoken to cooperman before hand because bolting the inlet and LCB is the best idea since sliced bread,thanks cooperman this is going to make my life much easier so thats my job for the weekend.
cooperman, after the operation i set the all valvue clearances to 0.38 (inlet and exhaust) as it said in the haynes, does this sound correct to you as it says in the book "coopers s/mk111" does this mean cooper s and mk111 or mk111 cooper s, as these are the only valvue clearance specs in there. And i carried out a compression check, this confused me slightly so hope you can answer this for me, 1 and 4 where reading 152 but 2 and 3 which is were i had the blow were only reading 101. When it initialy blew the gasket I was about 3 miles from my home, i drove back very slow but do you think my head may have warped and in result im loosing compression on 2-3 thanks agen for you replys guys..neale.. p.s did you get my last e mail cooper man re: rebuild
Luckily for me, the head youve seen in my previous topic was complete with good studs which fitted just fine. But i wish id spoken to cooperman before hand because bolting the inlet and LCB is the best idea since sliced bread,thanks cooperman this is going to make my life much easier so thats my job for the weekend.
cooperman, after the operation i set the all valvue clearances to 0.38 (inlet and exhaust) as it said in the haynes, does this sound correct to you as it says in the book "coopers s/mk111" does this mean cooper s and mk111 or mk111 cooper s, as these are the only valvue clearance specs in there. And i carried out a compression check, this confused me slightly so hope you can answer this for me, 1 and 4 where reading 152 but 2 and 3 which is were i had the blow were only reading 101. When it initialy blew the gasket I was about 3 miles from my home, i drove back very slow but do you think my head may have warped and in result im loosing compression on 2-3 thanks agen for you replys guys..neale.. p.s did you get my last e mail cooper man re: rebuild
Wouldn't expect a mini head to warp as it's cast iron rather than alluminium. Could be scored though or rusted between the two centre cylinders (on the cylinder head, not the block), but you would have seen that when it was apart.
Re-torque down the head bolts, in the correct order, you need to do that after every rebuild, and run it up again then try the compression test again. Take out all 4 plugs, screw in the tester fully into plug hole no 1 until it seals, put your foot fully down on the throttle pedal and turn the engine over a good few seconds, not just one or two. Check the reading and do the next and so on.
I assume you cleaned the mating surfaces scrupiously (thats not how you spell it) so i'll say very clean. If you have got corrosion between the chambers, then a skim at an engineering workshop won't cost the earth but you will need to totally dismantle the head.
Another thought, hope the head hasn't actually cracked between the two chambers...if so it'll need welding and then machining in which case it may be cheaper to find a second hand head from a reputable seller.
Tony H
Re-torque down the head bolts, in the correct order, you need to do that after every rebuild, and run it up again then try the compression test again. Take out all 4 plugs, screw in the tester fully into plug hole no 1 until it seals, put your foot fully down on the throttle pedal and turn the engine over a good few seconds, not just one or two. Check the reading and do the next and so on.
I assume you cleaned the mating surfaces scrupiously (thats not how you spell it) so i'll say very clean. If you have got corrosion between the chambers, then a skim at an engineering workshop won't cost the earth but you will need to totally dismantle the head.
Another thought, hope the head hasn't actually cracked between the two chambers...if so it'll need welding and then machining in which case it may be cheaper to find a second hand head from a reputable seller.
Tony H
thanks skyedriver for that bit of info, ive been told by a few people that the head should be ok, i torqued all bolt correctly to 50lb as stated in mini haynes and i performed the compression check as you discribed BUT although i turned her over for about 8 seconds i did not do it full throttle infact i didnt touch the throttle at all could this be the reason for a lower reading on 2-3. I did clean the block and the head. i removed all carbon build up from both but im now thinking i should have re-seated the valvues. To tell you the truth im getting pissed of with the engine now, although its a good strong engine which fires up instanly, first time every time, has never cut out or let me down, even when the head gasket went the revs dropped to 200rpm but refused to stall. the problem is its realy slow. I love driving my mini she looks great sounds great and handles great she just needs a transplant.
What to do? do i buy a new engine with zero miles off the shelf ,or do send for cooperman to build my spare 1300 metro engine. this has a 5 speed box and has covered between 30-40k, it is already striped, cleaned and painted which will make the job a little easier for him ( although could do with being painted again). we have discussed the rebuild already over email, and he has given me lots of info about the build and i know he will do a great job of it so ive now got to decide what to do so i might put it to a public vote via this forum (hehe) should be intresting...neale..
What to do? do i buy a new engine with zero miles off the shelf ,or do send for cooperman to build my spare 1300 metro engine. this has a 5 speed box and has covered between 30-40k, it is already striped, cleaned and painted which will make the job a little easier for him ( although could do with being painted again). we have discussed the rebuild already over email, and he has given me lots of info about the build and i know he will do a great job of it so ive now got to decide what to do so i might put it to a public vote via this forum (hehe) should be intresting...neale..
A 1300 MG motor with a 5 Speed box!
My vote is to get it to cooperman pronto, let him work his magic and let the min fly!!!
(Just make sure you get cooperman to record the build, with lots of pics, giving away all of his go faster secrets and then post it all up won't you
)
Only joking cooperman!
My vote is to get it to cooperman pronto, let him work his magic and let the min fly!!!
(Just make sure you get cooperman to record the build, with lots of pics, giving away all of his go faster secrets and then post it all up won't you
)Only joking cooperman!
Cooperman said:
My other tip is to bolt the manifolds on and not use those horrible 5/16" unf studs. Then if ever the head has to come off again, there is no need to remove either the inlet or exhaust manifolods or disconnect the exhaust down pipe.
Why not just undo engine steady and tilt the engine forwards a little?Skyedriver said:
dogfather said:
a 5 speed box ..
It won't take much to get the 998 back working and then you have a little time to think about without making hasty decisions
Im going to take the plunge so cooperman what can you make me within my price range which will be as close to £1000 as possible £1200 maximum. or is it to much to ask to get a great engine in this budget ( parts and labour) as you know i have a donar engine and head.I tried to cost the list you gave me but struggled with some parts, sory to be a pain (agen) hope to speak to you soon... Email me if poss mate..thanks..neale..
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