Fuel/Brake lines inside car
Discussion
I'm assuming that the car is to be used for competition. If that's the case, then there are some basic rules that will apply.
First of all the fuel line. The MSA rules say that where a fuel line passes through the inside of a closed car the line must have no joins inside the passenger area. Therefore, you need a continuous metal tube or 'Aeroquip'-type braided hose. I usually run this along the left-hand side of the exhaust pipe tunnel, entering the car above the top of the rear sub-frame and just forward of the inner end of the l.h. radius arm pin I always use standard-bore steel fuel tube. It enters under the rear seat panel and I bend it to make it run along the exhaust pipe tunnel and througn the lowest part of the tranverse box-section. At the front it gous up behind the heater and then through the bulkhead near to the carbs. I place a fuel pressure regulator there. The regulations say that the pipe must be 'protected', although no-one seems to really know what that means. I clip mine back with 'P-clips' and from where it passes through the transverse box-section, I cover it with 'Spiraflex' plastic sheathing up to behind the heater.
The brake pipe and the battery lead I run down the other side of the tunnel. Some I've seen have been run along the inner sill, but for competition I don't fancy the possibility of damage to either caused by a heavy side impact. The battery lead I run through the seat back, then down through the seat base panel, then across to the tunnel and forward, up behind the heater and through the front bulkhead just outboard of the brake master cylinder. Don't go through any lower or you can get too close to the manifold.
The brake line I also run along the r.h. side of the tunnel from the input side of the rear splitter unit. If you use copper pipe it's easier to bend to shape and to feed through the bulkheads.
Where all the pipes and cables go through the bulkheads and the tranverse box-section I always use rubber hose as the sheath, rather than grommets, as this gives a safest anti-chafe medium when secured with RTV.
The standard battery cable is too short to do this, but if, as I do, you fit the FIA cut-off switch just by the handbrake lever, then two standard cables are long enough, but you'll need a big, big crimping tool to fit the new battery lead terminals.
Make sure you use lots of 'P-Clips'. I use Rivnuts and allen-head screws to hold them - 4 mm are fine.
It's really quite easy once you get the car up high of the ground and the trim moved out of the way.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures.
Peter
First of all the fuel line. The MSA rules say that where a fuel line passes through the inside of a closed car the line must have no joins inside the passenger area. Therefore, you need a continuous metal tube or 'Aeroquip'-type braided hose. I usually run this along the left-hand side of the exhaust pipe tunnel, entering the car above the top of the rear sub-frame and just forward of the inner end of the l.h. radius arm pin I always use standard-bore steel fuel tube. It enters under the rear seat panel and I bend it to make it run along the exhaust pipe tunnel and througn the lowest part of the tranverse box-section. At the front it gous up behind the heater and then through the bulkhead near to the carbs. I place a fuel pressure regulator there. The regulations say that the pipe must be 'protected', although no-one seems to really know what that means. I clip mine back with 'P-clips' and from where it passes through the transverse box-section, I cover it with 'Spiraflex' plastic sheathing up to behind the heater.
The brake pipe and the battery lead I run down the other side of the tunnel. Some I've seen have been run along the inner sill, but for competition I don't fancy the possibility of damage to either caused by a heavy side impact. The battery lead I run through the seat back, then down through the seat base panel, then across to the tunnel and forward, up behind the heater and through the front bulkhead just outboard of the brake master cylinder. Don't go through any lower or you can get too close to the manifold.
The brake line I also run along the r.h. side of the tunnel from the input side of the rear splitter unit. If you use copper pipe it's easier to bend to shape and to feed through the bulkheads.
Where all the pipes and cables go through the bulkheads and the tranverse box-section I always use rubber hose as the sheath, rather than grommets, as this gives a safest anti-chafe medium when secured with RTV.
The standard battery cable is too short to do this, but if, as I do, you fit the FIA cut-off switch just by the handbrake lever, then two standard cables are long enough, but you'll need a big, big crimping tool to fit the new battery lead terminals.
Make sure you use lots of 'P-Clips'. I use Rivnuts and allen-head screws to hold them - 4 mm are fine.
It's really quite easy once you get the car up high of the ground and the trim moved out of the way.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures.
Peter
Cooperman said:
sensible advice
Having worked supporting scrutineers on rallies an approach like that would get you straight through. When you get to the stages the potential damage would be minimised too. I completely support the comment about running pipes like this down the middle of the car.
managed to take a few photos of the inside of my car.
the fuel line is 5/16th kunnifer brake tube, so very strong, its very difficult to bend, as the bends need to be a certain radius to prevent kinking. it needs to be a one piece run of pipe (unless screw fittings are used) as per the blue book. with a bit of thought (and a couple of trial goes) i got it fitted as per the photos. its out the way and runs up the bulkhead , out behind the wiper motor to the carb. its impossible to see it in the engine bay.
it runs level with the edge of the seat pan for to reasons, 1) to keep the bends smooth, and 2) it made it easier to drill and rivit it to the floor.
also, thanks to the position of this and the electrics box, its possible to fit a 'tuffcrate' of spares on the floor with no worry of it rubbing or squashing any of the pipes.
here you can see it running along the lh sill, nice and out the way. its also possible to see the battery cable running along the tunnel to the master key. this is positioned here so i can reach it whilst strapped in. i need the ability to be able to start the car whilst strapped in due to the events i do.
the thin black cable is the power lead for the transponder, which attaches to the cage. the red plastic square thing is the remote battery booster plug.
here it follows the sill and goes up the inner wing. the blue wire is the ignition on/off for the push starter.
here you can see the battery cable going through the floor, it then 'p' clips round the frame to the starter.
the thin black pipe is the extinguisher plumbing, which 't's off under the dash, one to the engine bay, one to the driver.
this is the brake pipe ruuning down the drivers inner sill, it follows the same path as the fuel line, just on the opposite hand.
here you can see the brake bias valve attached to the underside of the parcel shelf. its the screw type tilion type and offers fine adjustment of the rear brakes.
then finally the brake pipe goes through the bulkhead and into the 't' then into the master cylinder. it takes great care to route the pipe this way as you must ensure that the pedals dont catch it and that it exits the bulkhead in the right place. i ran mine like this as i wanted it to be tidy, out the way and hidden. the engine bay looks really clean, with all the pipes and cables hidden from imediate view.
it took two full days to get the fuel, brake and battery cables made and fitted, but the time taken and thought was well worth it.
im not worried about the lines running down the sides as i think that, unlike rallying, an accident in a circuit car that was bad enough to affect the integrity of, say the brake lines, would suggest that the car was in such a position as to no longer require brakes!
the kunifer fuel line can be bent double and takes some worrying before it fractures, so i dont think thats an issue either.
the scruitineers have actually commented how tidy and well presented my car is, so they must think the lines are ok.
hope this helps
the fuel line is 5/16th kunnifer brake tube, so very strong, its very difficult to bend, as the bends need to be a certain radius to prevent kinking. it needs to be a one piece run of pipe (unless screw fittings are used) as per the blue book. with a bit of thought (and a couple of trial goes) i got it fitted as per the photos. its out the way and runs up the bulkhead , out behind the wiper motor to the carb. its impossible to see it in the engine bay.
it runs level with the edge of the seat pan for to reasons, 1) to keep the bends smooth, and 2) it made it easier to drill and rivit it to the floor.
also, thanks to the position of this and the electrics box, its possible to fit a 'tuffcrate' of spares on the floor with no worry of it rubbing or squashing any of the pipes.
here you can see it running along the lh sill, nice and out the way. its also possible to see the battery cable running along the tunnel to the master key. this is positioned here so i can reach it whilst strapped in. i need the ability to be able to start the car whilst strapped in due to the events i do.
the thin black cable is the power lead for the transponder, which attaches to the cage. the red plastic square thing is the remote battery booster plug.
here it follows the sill and goes up the inner wing. the blue wire is the ignition on/off for the push starter.
here you can see the battery cable going through the floor, it then 'p' clips round the frame to the starter.
the thin black pipe is the extinguisher plumbing, which 't's off under the dash, one to the engine bay, one to the driver.
this is the brake pipe ruuning down the drivers inner sill, it follows the same path as the fuel line, just on the opposite hand.
here you can see the brake bias valve attached to the underside of the parcel shelf. its the screw type tilion type and offers fine adjustment of the rear brakes.
then finally the brake pipe goes through the bulkhead and into the 't' then into the master cylinder. it takes great care to route the pipe this way as you must ensure that the pedals dont catch it and that it exits the bulkhead in the right place. i ran mine like this as i wanted it to be tidy, out the way and hidden. the engine bay looks really clean, with all the pipes and cables hidden from imediate view.
it took two full days to get the fuel, brake and battery cables made and fitted, but the time taken and thought was well worth it.
im not worried about the lines running down the sides as i think that, unlike rallying, an accident in a circuit car that was bad enough to affect the integrity of, say the brake lines, would suggest that the car was in such a position as to no longer require brakes!
the kunifer fuel line can be bent double and takes some worrying before it fractures, so i dont think thats an issue either.
the scruitineers have actually commented how tidy and well presented my car is, so they must think the lines are ok.
hope this helps
Cheers Rich, much appreciated. One thing I was thinking this weekend was that I will have to run the rear seat due to the regs of hill climbing I will want to run in. Most cars have the lines going through the rear seat rest part of the body... where do you think I should put them through the body at the rear?
tom
i left the rear seat pan and companion boxes in mine to retain the 1960s look. all three cables and pipes exit through the heel board and then the battery and fuel go into the boot in the normal fashion. the brake just goes into the normal 't' piece
again, leaving the rear seat pan bare is handy, as when you are towing the car to events you can put a pair of wheels on a blanket on the seat pan!
i left the rear seat pan and companion boxes in mine to retain the 1960s look. all three cables and pipes exit through the heel board and then the battery and fuel go into the boot in the normal fashion. the brake just goes into the normal 't' piece
again, leaving the rear seat pan bare is handy, as when you are towing the car to events you can put a pair of wheels on a blanket on the seat pan!
Gassing Station | Classic Minis | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff