355 Clutches (again) - is it on its way out?
Discussion
After the recent thread on the life of a 355 clutch, I thought I'd ask how you tell if it's on its way out.
The pedal on mine has risen slightly and there's a distinct cm or so of travel before it does much. Seem to think it wasn't like this before.
Drags the car round no problem, but the pedal feels noticably slacker than it was.
The car's now done just over 15k miles and I don't think the clutch has ever been replaced (I bought it at 10k miles, so as it's a manual I'd say it probably hasn't been).
Any other more definitive signs or areas where I can look, or should I just wait for it to give up or get it changed as a matter of course...
The pedal on mine has risen slightly and there's a distinct cm or so of travel before it does much. Seem to think it wasn't like this before.
Drags the car round no problem, but the pedal feels noticably slacker than it was.
The car's now done just over 15k miles and I don't think the clutch has ever been replaced (I bought it at 10k miles, so as it's a manual I'd say it probably hasn't been).
Any other more definitive signs or areas where I can look, or should I just wait for it to give up or get it changed as a matter of course...
funnily enough Andy, I had this same conversation with Manu and Ajay when my car first came back from Graypaul after the service.
The clutch biting point felt higher than it had before, and I was pretty sure I wasn't imagining it, and hadn't lost the "feel" of the car due to driving my Mazda everyday for over a week. I think it is probably wearing, but not worn, but thats just my theory. I asked the same question to Fraser, as he needed a clutch change. Apparently, the clutch will just start to slip.
I think it is hydraulic clutch, and adjusts for wear, so when its slips, its gone bye bye. It was 3 months ago I did the service at Graypaul (wonder why it felt so different? and they cocked up my reversing gate thingy!!!) and it has been running fine ever since. I've been ragging the tits of it, hard changes at the redline 1st-2nd, 2nd-3rd and... well it gets illegal after that so I've stopped there . Other than lovely pops and bangs and loads of flames, I've nothing to report.
Watch it start slipping on me tonight
The clutch biting point felt higher than it had before, and I was pretty sure I wasn't imagining it, and hadn't lost the "feel" of the car due to driving my Mazda everyday for over a week. I think it is probably wearing, but not worn, but thats just my theory. I asked the same question to Fraser, as he needed a clutch change. Apparently, the clutch will just start to slip.
I think it is hydraulic clutch, and adjusts for wear, so when its slips, its gone bye bye. It was 3 months ago I did the service at Graypaul (wonder why it felt so different? and they cocked up my reversing gate thingy!!!) and it has been running fine ever since. I've been ragging the tits of it, hard changes at the redline 1st-2nd, 2nd-3rd and... well it gets illegal after that so I've stopped there . Other than lovely pops and bangs and loads of flames, I've nothing to report.
Watch it start slipping on me tonight
Thanks ninja.
It had started to do it a whilke ago but is getting progressively higher (probably only mm's, but you notice it). Thought it was auto-adjustment taking up too much.
Will run with it until it starts slipping then hope I'm not a few hundred miles away from home when it does
It had started to do it a whilke ago but is getting progressively higher (probably only mm's, but you notice it). Thought it was auto-adjustment taking up too much.
Will run with it until it starts slipping then hope I'm not a few hundred miles away from home when it does
The pedal "feel" can be affected by air in the line. This can happen for many reasons (poor seals, low fluid level, or just plain poor mechanic-ing after a belt change/engine out disconnection). I'd say if the biting point has got higher, the air is now gone from the system, and is a sign of being properly bled. There should be minimal free play, then positive pedal feel. If it's too spongy at the top of it's travel, that's usually air in the line.
To test for clutch slip, accelerate full throttle in 3rd from about 3000rpm. Feel the engine get to max torque (about 4500rpm), then briefly prod the clutch pedal with your left foot, while keeping the throttle planted. The revs should only rise slightly if at all, and then settle into smooth acceleration again. If the revs flare up and stay up, and acceleration slows, your clutch is slipping.
You'll be able to trundle around for quite a while if it is slipping, so don't panic. Just drive it carefully avoiding slip and get it fixed at your convenience.
Too much slip will overheat and damage the flywheel surfaces.
To test for clutch slip, accelerate full throttle in 3rd from about 3000rpm. Feel the engine get to max torque (about 4500rpm), then briefly prod the clutch pedal with your left foot, while keeping the throttle planted. The revs should only rise slightly if at all, and then settle into smooth acceleration again. If the revs flare up and stay up, and acceleration slows, your clutch is slipping.
You'll be able to trundle around for quite a while if it is slipping, so don't panic. Just drive it carefully avoiding slip and get it fixed at your convenience.
Too much slip will overheat and damage the flywheel surfaces.
360N-GT said:
The pedal "feel" can be affected by air in the line. This can happen for many reasons (poor seals, low fluid level, or just plain poor mechanic-ing after a belt change/engine out disconnection). I'd say if the biting point has got higher, the air is now gone from the system, and is a sign of being properly bled. There should be minimal free play, then positive pedal feel. If it's too spongy at the top of it's travel, that's usually air in the line.
To test for clutch slip, accelerate full throttle in 3rd from about 3000rpm. Feel the engine get to max torque (about 4500rpm), then briefly prod the clutch pedal with your left foot, while keeping the throttle planted. The revs should only rise slightly if at all, and then settle into smooth acceleration again. If the revs flare up and stay up, and acceleration slows, your clutch is slipping.
You'll be able to trundle around for quite a while if it is slipping, so don't panic. Just drive it carefully avoiding slip and get it fixed at your convenience.
Too much slip will overheat and damage the flywheel surfaces.
What a bloody brilliant reply I can see the logic of it too, and will try it next time I'm out. Clutch on my 456 isn't slipping, but with 20K miles on the same one I'm expecting it to happen sometime soon. Thanks 360N-GT.
456mgt said:
What a bloody brilliant reply I can see the logic of it too, and will try it next time I'm out. Clutch on my 456 isn't slipping, but with 20K miles on the same one I'm expecting it to happen sometime soon. Thanks 360N-GT.
Yes, but if you get the "revs flare up and stay up, and acceleration slows" symptom, thats probably just massive wheelspin with kind of torque your Ferrari limo kicks out Oh, and I'll be along to spec your 'Stradale in mo....
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