coolant drained

[sparkypete]

I have now drained the coolant and removed the radiator from the V8S, whilst enjoy a brew before continuing with the front end strip i got to wondering can any harm become to the engine whilst it is stood with no coolant in it.
Maybe probs with dried out seals, but how long does the coolant need to be out for the seals to perish, maybe a silly question but i am sure that someone on PH will be able to advise.

Ta

Pete

[GreenV8S]

Leave it as long as you like, it won't care.

[ketvrin]

The Coolant I used was a Glycol based IIRC and it doesnt evaporate... a spillage on my garage (barn) floor was wet for weeks, so you should have no probs there.

Use deionised water and not tap water when you fill up again as it reduces corrosion...

enjoy

K

[sparkypete]

Cheers for the advise, i thought as much, but it is always prudent to ask for a 2nd opinion.

Ta

[jimed]

I've not heard the de-ionised water thing before Kevin - where do you get it from in suitable quantities? But - do we really need to use it as good anti-freeze usually contains a corrosion inhibitor anyway and that is one of the reasons why we need to change it every couple of years.
Jim

[pies]

Halfords sell it by the gallon

[ketvrin]

jimed said:

I've not heard the de-ionised water thing before Kevin - where do you get it from in suitable quantities? But - do we really need to use it as good anti-freeze usually contains a corrosion inhibitor anyway and that is one of the reasons why we need to change it every couple of years.
Jim

As Colin says you can get it from most motor factors by the gallon and its as cheap as ... well... water

I think it is probably more important in areas where the water is hard/soft ? and scaling is a problem ... anyway I've always used it...

K

[Barkychoc]

Pete make sure you check the 2 metal coolant pipes across the front of the rad. Mine looked fine till I got them on the wire wheel, then they looked more like a teabag.
I've replaced them, and the cooling performance is much improved, the gauge virtually never moves off 90 degrees now, when stopped it goes up a touch then the fan kicks in and bring the temp down again, before it was nudging into the red.
There are 2 small pipes off the top of the water pump, one in an S shape, and the other in an L shape. I've just had all my coolant pipes off & these two were in a terrible state. Got replacements (standard black rubber type) from rimmer brothers.
I also got a new thermostat housing that has the thread for the fan switch, worth considering if you have to replace the metal pipes.
If you need any info part numbers etc for the bits above let me know.

Chris

[sparkypete]

Thanks Chris

I will have to change the front steel pipes before it all goes back and I have read with interest your bit about the otter switch in the thermastat housing, it would mean i could pick up some stainless pipes from a local company without having to worry about having to prat about getting the otter switch onto them.

My motor is also fitted with a digital read out relay and sensor, the sensor is plumbed into a small coolant hose located to the top of the engine, in the cab i have a digital read out mounted to the left side of the steering wheel which provides a digital reading of the water temp (much more reliable and accurate than the TVR gauge. The relay is fully programmable and can be set to bring the fans on at any temp you want it to. I run this in conjuction with the standard otter switch, so if ever the otter packs up the digital relay will always bring on the fans.
The otter brings on the fans at 70, with the relay programmed to bring them on if need be at 75. The car has never been above 78.

Edited by sparkypete on Monday 8th October 20:55

[Barkychoc]

Blimey thats running cool, is the injection system happy with it running at that temp ?
The otter switch for the fan is an unusual thread - its M22x1.5 which is an unusual (finer) pitch I understand, I'm not an engineer so I'm sure someone with more knowledge will enlighten us.

But yes you are right - I spent ages determining how I was going to mount the otter switch - then came across the thermostat housing by accident, when I had already made the pipes up minus cutting the thread for the otter switch.
Let me know how you get on getting stainless pipes made up - they are very simple without the otter switch. I used 35mm diameter copper pipe.
I reckon 35mm Stainless pipe with a weld line around each end to stop the hose slipping off would do it, or if they can press it to give the ridge even better.

Pic of the thermostat housing here

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Chris

[tinks v8S]

the gamekeeper may make these if a lot r interested
he is making stainless bends etc 4 chims

Edited by tinks v8S on Tuesday 9th October 22:26