How's your pipes ?

[Barkychoc]

As an aside to my V8 coolant hoses thread, here's the state of my steel pipes & my solution.

All I did was took the pipes off & cleaned them up with my bench wire brush.
I knew there was a slight leak.



This (below) was under the jubilee clip which supports the pipe.





And here's my solution with thanks to Mr Heath and Mr Robinson.
The plan is to get a brass nut tomorrow & to solder that on the end of the 'T' so I can fit the temperature sensor for the cooling fan (I'll drill it through first).
All copper piping is 35mm. Don't ask what it cost (OK just over £70 inc 3 metres of pipe, and thats materials only).
I want an instant solution so I can get to the Rutland Rumble on Sunday.

Of course what's worrying is that the swirl pot is mild steel aswell......

I intend to paint the pipes black. Copper is OK for a steam engine but not a TIV!

Edited by Barkychoc on Wednesday 3rd October 21:12

[Ray S]

What is it they say necessity is the mother of?? looks good to me.See you at the rumble..Ray

Edited by Ray S on Wednesday 3rd October 22:47

[gozzy]

Were you a plumber in a previous life?

[pies]

seem good to me

I might solder a litte bit of pipe into the currently open end and cut of flush,just to give a bit more support to the jubilee clip

[Barkychoc]

pies said:

seem good to me

I might solder a little bit of pipe into the currently open end and cut of flush,just to give a bit more support to the jubilee clip

I know what you mean - but these 35mm fittings are very substantial - hence the cost with copper prices as they are at the moment (£1200 per tonne apparently scrap).
I deliberately fitted couplings on the end to give a lip for the rubber pipe, but I'm sure you'd sussed that already.
The overall diameter is a fraction bigger than the old pipes - in fact it seems a much better fit for the rubber hoses.
Overall my hoses are all good except the smaller ones off the top of the water pump and the heater hoses from the back of the manifold.

Also - beware of jubilee clips. I've bought some genuine jubilee branded clips which are nice quality & well made. There is some real rubbish out there - I went to a motor factors and they were really nasty cheap copies that they were selling.

I got them from Cromwell tools, there's a branch just down the road from where I've been working.

Trying to dodge the grief on when I'm going to get the kitchen finished aswell!

Chris

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Why did you not just get some Ali joiners that have the hose lips, and some 90 degree silicone hoses. would have been cheaper than copper.

[Barkychoc]

4 reasons.
1. I think I know what you mean but am not entirely sure.
2. The bottom hose off the radiator has a sharp kink in it to clear the chassis - so a standard 90 I don't think would work.
3. I am in a rush to fix it as I want to get to the Rutland Rumble on Sunday.
4. I am stupid.

Chris

[pies]

Barkychoc said:

pies said:

seem good to me

I might solder a little bit of pipe into the currently open end and cut of flush,just to give a bit more support to the jubilee clip

I know what you mean - but these 35mm fittings are very substantial:

Chris

All i mean is stuff some 35 mm pipe up the end and solder it in then cut flush, just to add strength.I know how strong 35mm pipe is i use it most weeks.If you decide not to solder some pipe in the ends may i suggest you dig out the solder rings so they dont become dislodged and flwl the cooling system.Easy enough to dig out with a terminal sized screwdriver

[Barkychoc]

Good thought - If it will come out easily I think I'll solder a bit of pipe in the end anyway, might aswell get my moneys worth out of the pipe! Top idea Colin.

It also occured to me tonight if I had my creative head engaged I could have cut the couplers in half and put half on each end of the pipe.

The otter switch is giving me a headache - I didn't realise it would be an obscure thread M22x1.5
Plan was to get a brass nut. Not so easy now. Not entirely worked out what I'm going to do yet.

Chris

Edited by Barkychoc on Thursday 4th October 19:03

[Harry1972M]

You can get a push in fit otter switch (sort of tapered) instead of a screwed one many of the S's have this type - you will have to make a bracket to secure it i.e. clamp it into the pipe - mine has this type will take a piccy if you like, replaced mine last year so could dig out the part number also it was about a tenner if I recall.

Graham

[Barkychoc]

Harry1972M said:

You can get a push in fit otter switch (sort of tapered) instead of a screwed one many of the S's have this type - you will have to make a bracket to secure it i.e. clamp it into the pipe - mine has this type will take a piccy if you like, replaced mine last year so could dig out the part number also it was about a tenner if I recall.

Graham

Yes please - sounds good. Is the taper rubber then ? Not sure how it would seal.

[Sweet Thunder]

Harry1972M said:

You can get a push in fit otter switch (sort of tapered) instead of a screwed one many of the S's have this type - you will have to make a bracket to secure it i.e. clamp it into the pipe - mine has this type will take a piccy if you like, replaced mine last year so could dig out the part number also it was about a tenner if I recall.

Graham

Mine was Facet partno.7.5093 / Lucas partno. SNB 748, thermo fan switch from a motor factors. It fits Austin Metro and Nissan Bluebird. The otter switch itself has a 12,2mm diameter, not really tapered but a 20,8mm diameter ridge at the top. It comes with a 21,8-22,5mm diameter rubber ring so seal it in the pipe. I guess if you can find a bit of 22mm i.d. pipe you'll be fine.

[Harry1972M]

Hard to describe in words really - it is tapered with a rubber ring seal at the top - the bracket is a sort of pipe clamp with bolts either side which compresses it into the hole and the fact that it is tapered sort of forces it down to a seal - not sure how to post pics up so if you mail me through profile will mail you back a pic in the morning.
Graham

[coolcatmaz]

Barkychoc said:

3. I am in a rush to fix it as I want to get to the Rutland Rumble on Sunday.

my fingers are crossed for you Chris, would be great to have you along on Sunday. No idea whats going on with my S3 but its coming out to play anyway.

[Harry1972M]

Got your mail Chris will take the pic in the morning and send it off - hope it helps - in the short term you could allways extend the wires that were to the otter switch and run to the cockpit for an overide switch and turn the fan on manually at least this would get you over the weekend and then you could piggy back them onto the otter switch once you get one in place and you have the option of auto fan switching or manual overide.

Graham

[spludge]

I think I recall seeing something a while back about a replacement otter switch that just clamps on the pipe. I've just done a quick search but not turned anything up so I may have been dreaming?

K

[Barkychoc]

Harry1972M said:

Got your mail Chris will take the pic in the morning and send it off - hope it helps - in the short term you could allways extend the wires that were to the otter switch and run to the cockpit for an overide switch and turn the fan on manually at least this would get you over the weekend and then you could piggy back them onto the otter switch once you get one in place and you have the option of auto fan switching or manual overide.

Graham

Thanks I got the pics - I also managed to get a brass union in the correct thread today, so plan A is to try and use that. Watch this space.

Chris