Discussion
Here is a copy of an email I had earlier this year from Doug Elwood at David Gerald TVR after I enquired about getting outriggers replaced.
Hello Chris we can do this and be assured its IMPOSSIBLE to do properly without lifting the body ; we charge £1200 + vat and can collect from Essex by transporter ; we charge £1.55 + vat per laoded mile ie if its 150 miles its to your location we would charge 232.50 + vat to collect Regards Doug
email address I contacted him on is tvrsales@davidgeraldtvr.freeserve.co.uk
Hope this is of use.
Chris
Hello Chris we can do this and be assured its IMPOSSIBLE to do properly without lifting the body ; we charge £1200 + vat and can collect from Essex by transporter ; we charge £1.55 + vat per laoded mile ie if its 150 miles its to your location we would charge 232.50 + vat to collect Regards Doug
email address I contacted him on is tvrsales@davidgeraldtvr.freeserve.co.uk
Hope this is of use.
Chris
I made enquiries about getting the chassis on a previous S professionally cleaned/treated etc.
After speaking to several places including David Geralds, I ended up choosing these guys http://www.rtracing.co.uk/ I didn't get the work in the end but wouldn't hesitate to contact them again if I ever needed to.
Longers
After speaking to several places including David Geralds, I ended up choosing these guys http://www.rtracing.co.uk/ I didn't get the work in the end but wouldn't hesitate to contact them again if I ever needed to.
Longers
I have just had my outriggers replaced
As the body must be lifted at the front, it takes around 24-28 hours to do it, hence the costs. So you may aswell have both sides replaced at the same time.
Mine were done at Dulford Automotive in Collumpton. The cost will always vary due to what needs doing, but mine was about 1000 ( i say about as i also had MOT & new brake master cylinder at the same time so my total bill was 1450)
worth doing if you are keeping the car, i have so much more confidence with the car now.
As the body must be lifted at the front, it takes around 24-28 hours to do it, hence the costs. So you may aswell have both sides replaced at the same time.
Mine were done at Dulford Automotive in Collumpton. The cost will always vary due to what needs doing, but mine was about 1000 ( i say about as i also had MOT & new brake master cylinder at the same time so my total bill was 1450)
worth doing if you are keeping the car, i have so much more confidence with the car now.
The issue with welding new outriggers with the body in-situ is getting the 'top' of the tube welded onto the remaining chassis i.e. where the tub is in close proximity.
I understand from several specialists like RTracing & Gugi's that a complete body lift is not required - IF -the new section is prepared such that a 'coupon' is cut out to allow the welder to weld the 'top' of the tube from the underside. The remaining circumference can then be welded from the outside as normal, and on completion the 'coupon' is welded back onto the new tubing and the weld for the coupon can be ground flat to make a near invisible join.
Ideally, the new outrigger sections are made up on the bench and it is just 2 off welds to do by the method described above.
Best to get that waxoyl on!!
Nick
I understand from several specialists like RTracing & Gugi's that a complete body lift is not required - IF -the new section is prepared such that a 'coupon' is cut out to allow the welder to weld the 'top' of the tube from the underside. The remaining circumference can then be welded from the outside as normal, and on completion the 'coupon' is welded back onto the new tubing and the weld for the coupon can be ground flat to make a near invisible join.
Ideally, the new outrigger sections are made up on the bench and it is just 2 off welds to do by the method described above.
Best to get that waxoyl on!!
Nick
nawarne said:
The issue with welding new outriggers with the body in-situ is getting the 'top' of the tube welded onto the remaining chassis i.e. where the tub is in close proximity.
I understand from several specialists like RTracing & Gugi's that a complete body lift is not required - IF -the new section is prepared such that a 'coupon' is cut out to allow the welder to weld the 'top' of the tube from the underside. The remaining circumference can then be welded from the outside as normal, and on completion the 'coupon' is welded back onto the new tubing and the weld for the coupon can be ground flat to make a near invisible join.
Ideally, the new outrigger sections are made up on the bench and it is just 2 off welds to do by the method described above.
Best to get that waxoyl on!!
Nick
I've heard of people doing it with the body on but I cannot see how they can get a weld all round the chassis tube. If the body is left on there will inevitably be a section at the top that is not welded. Although leaving coupons on will give adequate strength, it will not stop water ingress and holding in a nice little crevice. Whilst it might be possible with body on, I think a partial body lift is the best way to do it.I understand from several specialists like RTracing & Gugi's that a complete body lift is not required - IF -the new section is prepared such that a 'coupon' is cut out to allow the welder to weld the 'top' of the tube from the underside. The remaining circumference can then be welded from the outside as normal, and on completion the 'coupon' is welded back onto the new tubing and the weld for the coupon can be ground flat to make a near invisible join.
Ideally, the new outrigger sections are made up on the bench and it is just 2 off welds to do by the method described above.
Best to get that waxoyl on!!
Nick
I have spent today stripping the chasis down, wire brushing and getting all the stones and dirt out. On the outer part of the chasis right behind the front wheels after attcking heavily with a wire brush I notice a small hole 0.5cm. How serious is this? Obviously they are on their way out but does this need imediate attention?
Highdown said:
I have spent today stripping the chasis down, wire brushing and getting all the stones and dirt out. On the outer part of the chasis right behind the front wheels after attcking heavily with a wire brush I notice a small hole 0.5cm. How serious is this? Obviously they are on their way out but does this need imediate attention?
If it's perforated in one place then it's probably weakened over a much wider area.My experience is that it the chassis will be worse than it looks with the body on. I had no visible holes in mine before I removed it but the hidden areas were very rotten.
Personally, I'd do a full body off restoration than attempt a partial lift. That way you are sure to catch all the corrosion and when done you're sorted for a long while.
Probably not what you wanted to hear though..... sorry.
Jed
Personally, I'd do a full body off restoration than attempt a partial lift. That way you are sure to catch all the corrosion and when done you're sorted for a long while.
Probably not what you wanted to hear though..... sorry.
Jed
Agree with Jed only way is to take body off.Found loads I could not see when I removed mine.Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff