Draper fault code reader
Discussion
Hello All,
Anyone have experience with the (draper) fault code reader? (I use the 3-pin on the 2,9 engine, and 'til now I think I've only seen two digid codes)
There are two "ignition on-engine on" procedures (one on page 5 and one on page 6 of the manual.
I don't seem to be able to CHOOSE te one I want to do. The start up of both seems the same. (working temperature,car off, connect fcr, switch to "-", start engine) When I do this every time I'm not really sure which mode I'm in.
My aim is to check/set the ignition timing. 12 btc. I think I need to be in service mode for that (page 5) I think I managed to get into that mode but the ignition was and stayed eratic....hmmmm
Any pointers/experiences?
I'm looking forward to any advice.
Thanks
Cheers
Olav
Anyone have experience with the (draper) fault code reader? (I use the 3-pin on the 2,9 engine, and 'til now I think I've only seen two digid codes)
There are two "ignition on-engine on" procedures (one on page 5 and one on page 6 of the manual.
I don't seem to be able to CHOOSE te one I want to do. The start up of both seems the same. (working temperature,car off, connect fcr, switch to "-", start engine) When I do this every time I'm not really sure which mode I'm in.
My aim is to check/set the ignition timing. 12 btc. I think I need to be in service mode for that (page 5) I think I managed to get into that mode but the ignition was and stayed eratic....hmmmm
Any pointers/experiences?
I'm looking forward to any advice.
Thanks
Cheers
Olav
Edited by Olav Bergman on Sunday 16th September 22:53
I have just bought one of these Draper ECU readers from ebay for £6. It has not arrived yet, but I would interested in knowing of any issues in using these readers on the TVR. My wiring loom has the 5 pin ECU diagnositics plug.
I don't have any ECU problems, just curious to see what codes come out of the ECU.
I don't have any ECU problems, just curious to see what codes come out of the ECU.
I'm reading a PDF of the Draper manual so hopefully it links up with your manual....
Page 5 "engine on ignition on" is for the 2 digit codes and the one on page 6 is for 3 digit codes. If you look on page 4 there is a heading "2 digit fault codes" and that section is the one relevant to us.
It is simple:
Have engine at full operating temp
Switch off
Connect reader
Set reader to on position (Gunsons manual has this wrong)
Start engine (within 10 secs of turning on ignition)
LEDs will flicker
Engine revs shoudl rise for a few seconds.
When a single flash (repeated I think) is seen give it full throttle briefly.
Engine codes should be transmitted but I've never seen any.
Then it should flash 6 times and enter service mode. You'll find the revs change slightly when it does as the ignition changes. Have the strobe on and you'll see it move. You then have a few minutes (seen 2-10 minutes quoted) when it is in service mode.
Good luck and if this doesn't make sense drop me a mail.
An alternative to the basic tester is this guys fault code reader : http://www.graynada.co.uk/ Clikc on FCR on the top menu. I've made one up and it works and it showed codes that were in KAM that the Gunson one didn't pick up. If you only want to set it in service mode then it may be OTT for your needs plus this one does the ABS module as well.
Jed
Page 5 "engine on ignition on" is for the 2 digit codes and the one on page 6 is for 3 digit codes. If you look on page 4 there is a heading "2 digit fault codes" and that section is the one relevant to us.
It is simple:
Have engine at full operating temp
Switch off
Connect reader
Set reader to on position (Gunsons manual has this wrong)
Start engine (within 10 secs of turning on ignition)
LEDs will flicker
Engine revs shoudl rise for a few seconds.
When a single flash (repeated I think) is seen give it full throttle briefly.
Engine codes should be transmitted but I've never seen any.
Then it should flash 6 times and enter service mode. You'll find the revs change slightly when it does as the ignition changes. Have the strobe on and you'll see it move. You then have a few minutes (seen 2-10 minutes quoted) when it is in service mode.
Good luck and if this doesn't make sense drop me a mail.
An alternative to the basic tester is this guys fault code reader : http://www.graynada.co.uk/ Clikc on FCR on the top menu. I've made one up and it works and it showed codes that were in KAM that the Gunson one didn't pick up. If you only want to set it in service mode then it may be OTT for your needs plus this one does the ABS module as well.
Jed
Others reading this may find this thread useful as well!!
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
i found that fault code reading requires patience.
firstly ensure your plugging into the right connector, you'll see from the thread pointed to by baggiebird that tivs dont all have the same connectors, best to check wire colours as well, but be aware you may have different colours as well, all in all best of luck, be it on your own head etc.
as my s3 does have the wiring colours and connectors as noted in the bible and on the tvr wiring diagram, i plugged the reader into the sd connector. i say "plugged in" the reader pins were too large initially and a needle file and faf time was required to actually get the pins in place.
After that i just followed the instructions, not only from the draper manual but also the numerous other manuals i had gathered on testing ecus and the ford eec iv in particular.
i started at the beginning ie ingnition on engine off.
the result was a code 11. therefore all is OK from the ecus point of view.
moved on to ingnition on engine on.
dont have my notes with me presently but from memory, i followed the instructions and at the relevant code pressed the throttle down as instructed, ecu then does its stuff (not for the faint hearted as the ecu takes control) doing a self test revving the engine to several set points, at it's convienence a code 6 (could be 5) is transmitted and the ecu puts itself into service mode for a set period (possibly 10mins). this is the point to get our asbestos arm to reach through and slacken the dizzy holding bolt and adjust the degress BTDC.
having gone through the procedure several times, due to not watching the reader properly, missing a flash, just because i was getting the hang of it, etc. it occured to me that the system was always fine. i continued this thought as a few days before i thought id been getting a missfire but no code was being given to indicate same. more homework ensued. i discovered that my ecu does not have a connection at pin 1, KAM (Keep Alive Memory) thus if i turn the ignition off all error codes obtained during a journey are lost. it occurs to me this is a double edged sword i cant find out historic codes but if turning it off clears the memory and the ecu checks itself on a restart and nothing is wrong i stand a good chance of getting home.
As playing with the electrics is less interesting than a blat to test the dizzy setting, i didnt take it further at the time, but having since purchased an ecu to experiment on, the R+D might continue in the future.
One of the tests ive heard of (possibly read?), but not tested, is to unplug the TPS, which the ecu supposidly interprets as "limp home mode" this mode is the same as "service mode" in theory.
Please be aware that my experiments with my ecu are at my own risk, the above is a chronicle of my experience and thoughts. i hope you find joy in any experiments you wish to take on, i accept no liabity for your actions on your ecu, electrics, sensors, tiv, etc.
all the best, Bil
ps sorry for going on a bit...
firstly ensure your plugging into the right connector, you'll see from the thread pointed to by baggiebird that tivs dont all have the same connectors, best to check wire colours as well, but be aware you may have different colours as well, all in all best of luck, be it on your own head etc.
as my s3 does have the wiring colours and connectors as noted in the bible and on the tvr wiring diagram, i plugged the reader into the sd connector. i say "plugged in" the reader pins were too large initially and a needle file and faf time was required to actually get the pins in place.
After that i just followed the instructions, not only from the draper manual but also the numerous other manuals i had gathered on testing ecus and the ford eec iv in particular.
i started at the beginning ie ingnition on engine off.
the result was a code 11. therefore all is OK from the ecus point of view.
moved on to ingnition on engine on.
dont have my notes with me presently but from memory, i followed the instructions and at the relevant code pressed the throttle down as instructed, ecu then does its stuff (not for the faint hearted as the ecu takes control) doing a self test revving the engine to several set points, at it's convienence a code 6 (could be 5) is transmitted and the ecu puts itself into service mode for a set period (possibly 10mins). this is the point to get our asbestos arm to reach through and slacken the dizzy holding bolt and adjust the degress BTDC.
having gone through the procedure several times, due to not watching the reader properly, missing a flash, just because i was getting the hang of it, etc. it occured to me that the system was always fine. i continued this thought as a few days before i thought id been getting a missfire but no code was being given to indicate same. more homework ensued. i discovered that my ecu does not have a connection at pin 1, KAM (Keep Alive Memory) thus if i turn the ignition off all error codes obtained during a journey are lost. it occurs to me this is a double edged sword i cant find out historic codes but if turning it off clears the memory and the ecu checks itself on a restart and nothing is wrong i stand a good chance of getting home.
As playing with the electrics is less interesting than a blat to test the dizzy setting, i didnt take it further at the time, but having since purchased an ecu to experiment on, the R+D might continue in the future.
One of the tests ive heard of (possibly read?), but not tested, is to unplug the TPS, which the ecu supposidly interprets as "limp home mode" this mode is the same as "service mode" in theory.
Please be aware that my experiments with my ecu are at my own risk, the above is a chronicle of my experience and thoughts. i hope you find joy in any experiments you wish to take on, i accept no liabity for your actions on your ecu, electrics, sensors, tiv, etc.
all the best, Bil
ps sorry for going on a bit...
Hello All!
Thank you so much for the feedback. I kind of figured it out with your help.
It's a three-wire I use so indeed there is only the 2 digit codes to be read, so only the "page 5-procedure" aplies. That explains a lot :-) :-)
I more or less got the timing right now. It still doesn't idle like want it to but this part is set.
When I bought the car (with the old engine) it idled at I think about 600 rpm doing a nice bum-bum-bum and I want that back! It's doing 1000 rpm bumberblubberbumberblubber.
Timing is set at 12 btdc now. I'm using 95 unleaded. The 12 is mentioned in the bible for the 2.8 at 95. I think that would aply for the 2,9 too.
Next step will be fiddling with the idle adjustment screws at the airflowmeters...i guess.
Thanks
Cheers
Olav Bergman
(Olavbergman.nl)
Thank you so much for the feedback. I kind of figured it out with your help.
It's a three-wire I use so indeed there is only the 2 digit codes to be read, so only the "page 5-procedure" aplies. That explains a lot :-) :-)
I more or less got the timing right now. It still doesn't idle like want it to but this part is set.
When I bought the car (with the old engine) it idled at I think about 600 rpm doing a nice bum-bum-bum and I want that back! It's doing 1000 rpm bumberblubberbumberblubber.
Timing is set at 12 btdc now. I'm using 95 unleaded. The 12 is mentioned in the bible for the 2.8 at 95. I think that would aply for the 2,9 too.
Next step will be fiddling with the idle adjustment screws at the airflowmeters...i guess.
Thanks
Cheers
Olav Bergman
(Olavbergman.nl)
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