help- safest max temp for 2.5 (kinda urgent)
Discussion
I'm not a Noble owner but I do know bits and bobs.
If that is water temp then yes it is warm, but not worryingly so. I see 110 degrees C in my Merc every now and then, not an issue. Just let it cool slowly, drive slowly for a bit, turn it off just after the fans have turned off.
If it's the oil then no problem at all, 103 degrees is bugger all temp for a decent quality oil to handle.
Dave!
If that is water temp then yes it is warm, but not worryingly so. I see 110 degrees C in my Merc every now and then, not an issue. Just let it cool slowly, drive slowly for a bit, turn it off just after the fans have turned off.
If it's the oil then no problem at all, 103 degrees is bugger all temp for a decent quality oil to handle.
Dave!
shivars said:
Wicked cheers,
Hmm although I've just noticed the oil filler cap is a bit melted - but in fairness it could have been like that before.
I also know its not had the radiator shroud upgrade
Argh!
S
Without wishing to worry you too much, but I went through a 2.5l engine due to overheating above 100C.Hmm although I've just noticed the oil filler cap is a bit melted - but in fairness it could have been like that before.
I also know its not had the radiator shroud upgrade

Argh!
S
Get the radiator shroud fitted ASAP - the cooling just can't cope with the heat unless it is done.
J
shivars said:
Scary!
Thanks guys, the car survived the day and we had great fun
Must do something about the cooling for next time though... Sucks to have to have the heating on and do a 'cool' lap after every few flying laps
Goddamit the Noble makes a great track monster though
Raa!
S
I've been running a 2.5L on the track for a few years now.Thanks guys, the car survived the day and we had great fun

Must do something about the cooling for next time though... Sucks to have to have the heating on and do a 'cool' lap after every few flying laps

Goddamit the Noble makes a great track monster though

Raa!
S
Here are my tips....
1) Don't do more than 10 laps at a time.
2) Warm the car up gently on the first lap. Don't slam on the brakes, just ride them gently into the corners.
3) Do your hot laps ! I'd say about 8 or so.
4) If you have an oil temp gauage keep an eye on it. I tend to back off once it gets to 100 degrees, and do a cool down lap.
5) Keep the revs down ! Try to change early and keep in the peak power zone (around 5.4K).
6) Get a dump value fitted, it'll save wear on the turbo.
7) Keep a constant eye on the tire wear and pressure. During a run the ressures in the tires will change, and so will the handling.
8) Always to a warm down lap, try no to use the brakes to much and when you are doing this keep an eye in the rear view mirror.
9) When you get into the pits, do not put the hand brake on.
10) Pop both the clams, it'll help to cool the car.
11) Give the car plenty of time to cool before the next run.
If you do short runs, you'll get to know the car much better, and understand the way it works.
Hope it helps.
--Jools
Certainly on the MBE ECU, the temperature gauge is not directly on a sensor. It's driven straight from the ECU, so the actual numbers are meaningless. Trevor probably knows what really goes on, but I seem to remember the gauge basically reads cold, not hot enough, normal, too hot.
Not a lot of help sorry, unless someone else can fill in the gaps in my knowledge.
Not a lot of help sorry, unless someone else can fill in the gaps in my knowledge.
The MBE has a temp map that maps output volts for the gauge based on input temp from the sensor. It is fully variable, and if you wanted you could even make the guage work backwards 
Like all modern cars, the map is set so that despite the temp wandering around 90-100 it stays in the middle.
Once it gets above a certain temp, it becomes linear and hence if you see your guage wandering above 100 with a MBE you really really have a problem!
J

Like all modern cars, the map is set so that despite the temp wandering around 90-100 it stays in the middle.
Once it gets above a certain temp, it becomes linear and hence if you see your guage wandering above 100 with a MBE you really really have a problem!
J
argh!
ok now I'm worried, it did spend quite a little while above the 100 mark
buuuttt.....its often equally close to the 100 mark on the other side when ticking over at a standstill!
Either way, am sooo getting the radiator upgrade now! Although I have to admit I'm not sure how a shroud and bigger fans can increase cooling when there's 100mph air being rammed through it anyway!?!
ok now I'm worried, it did spend quite a little while above the 100 mark

buuuttt.....its often equally close to the 100 mark on the other side when ticking over at a standstill!
Either way, am sooo getting the radiator upgrade now! Although I have to admit I'm not sure how a shroud and bigger fans can increase cooling when there's 100mph air being rammed through it anyway!?!
shivars said:
Oh Joools - thanks also for the tips. I was doing most of them but this confirms my desire to get a dump valve fitted! (and my handbrake paranoia when coming back in - ended up finding small stones to put under the wheels as chocks!)
No problem ! I tend to leave the car in gear in the pits, just have to remember to take it out of gear before you start it up again !It's not a bad track day car, and to be honest the only cars which really trouble it are Radicals and the like.
Just be gental with it and it'll reward you with lots of fun track days.
If you are using the standard alloys, keep away from the kerbs and rumble strips as they will get pretty bent out of shape.
--Jools
Hmm, I'm keeping the engine running for 5-10 mins or so after each run (with the clams open) to keep the oil+water moving and let it all cool evenly - is that not so necessary?
(I usually leave it so the rad fans stop as it cools, and then start again as the tick-over temperature starts to warm it again - working on the theory that all the hottest bits will then at least have cooled to even temp throughout)
(I usually leave it so the rad fans stop as it cools, and then start again as the tick-over temperature starts to warm it again - working on the theory that all the hottest bits will then at least have cooled to even temp throughout)
shivars said:
Either way, am sooo getting the radiator upgrade now! Although I have to admit I'm not sure how a shroud and bigger fans can increase cooling when there's 100mph air being rammed through it anyway!?!
Because, despite what you may think from looking at it, most of the air actually doesn't get through the radiator, it "bounces" up and over the top of the car!....J
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