It's been a while...
Discussion
But I may be coming back to a Mini - a proper Mini.
Some friends have a Mini (1980's) which has failed it's MOT, they are willing to give it to us for our daughter who is 17 in 13 months.
It has failed on mostly silly things, but the biggie is the rear sub-frame. Putting another one in will also cure all but 1 of the other fails.
Questions:-
1) Second hand or new subframe?
2) Do it myself or get a garage to do it. In my defense, I did an apprenticeship in motor mechanics and 'mechaniced' for a guy who raced a mental mini years ago, the thing is, my tool chest is somewhat depleted and I haven't really wielded a spanner in anger for about 10 years!
Don't expect to see me driving it though - it is a Mayfair and it's pink and cream
Just had a thought - this isn't a forum for the new BMW 1 series is it???
Some friends have a Mini (1980's) which has failed it's MOT, they are willing to give it to us for our daughter who is 17 in 13 months.
It has failed on mostly silly things, but the biggie is the rear sub-frame. Putting another one in will also cure all but 1 of the other fails.
Questions:-
1) Second hand or new subframe?
2) Do it myself or get a garage to do it. In my defense, I did an apprenticeship in motor mechanics and 'mechaniced' for a guy who raced a mental mini years ago, the thing is, my tool chest is somewhat depleted and I haven't really wielded a spanner in anger for about 10 years!
Don't expect to see me driving it though - it is a Mayfair and it's pink and cream
Just had a thought - this isn't a forum for the new BMW 1 series is it???
New, definately, only £99 from Mini Sport, rude not to get a new one.
Whether to DIY or get a Garage to do it is really down to whether you can be arsed with what is invariably a pain. If the car has been sat for sometime the bolts holding the shell to the subframe have almost definately rotted and will shear.
There is a step by step guide in Mini Worlds KYMA4 magazine...
Whether to DIY or get a Garage to do it is really down to whether you can be arsed with what is invariably a pain. If the car has been sat for sometime the bolts holding the shell to the subframe have almost definately rotted and will shear.
There is a step by step guide in Mini Worlds KYMA4 magazine...
Cheers guys,
It's not been sat at all, was used up until it failed the MOT a few weeks back.
Think I'll go and have a look at it, rude not to as it's free I suppose.
Do we still put straight through twin upswpet cherry bombs on them and big spot lamps or is that a bit lax power these days?
It's not been sat at all, was used up until it failed the MOT a few weeks back.
Think I'll go and have a look at it, rude not to as it's free I suppose.
Do we still put straight through twin upswpet cherry bombs on them and big spot lamps or is that a bit lax power these days?
As far as I am concerned Mini modifying of any sort (within reason) is well beyond the remit of lax power.
Spots and cherry bombs would be retro anyway...
Theres LOADS of add ons you can get for them, just pick up a copy of Mini Magazine or Mini World and there will be a plethora of suppliers of aftermarket bits.
Spots and cherry bombs would be retro anyway...
Theres LOADS of add ons you can get for them, just pick up a copy of Mini Magazine or Mini World and there will be a plethora of suppliers of aftermarket bits.
I can feel the wallet throbing already
Not sure I will though as really it is a vehicle to get my daughter an insurance policy of her own, tarting it up with bits, while fun, would probably increase the premium.
2nd fuel tank
Lift off front
roll cage
Webber 45's (or are the 80's versions efi?)
RESPRAY
Not sure I will though as really it is a vehicle to get my daughter an insurance policy of her own, tarting it up with bits, while fun, would probably increase the premium.
2nd fuel tank
Lift off front
roll cage
Webber 45's (or are the 80's versions efi?)
RESPRAY
.Mark said: I can feel the wallet throbing already
Not sure I will though as really it is a vehicle to get my daughter an insurance policy of her own, tarting it up with bits, while fun, would probably increase the premium.
2nd fuel tank
Lift off front
roll cage
Webber 45's (or are the 80's versions efi?)
RESPRAY
she may appreciate a stage one kit (exhaust filter & needle) as IIRC the mayfair is a 998 and goes like a wheezy nag with the standard setup...makes a very nice sound too, you'll hear her before she arrives & the ins will hardly be affected - get quotes from specialists like liverpool victoria, adrian flux or HHH
minimax said:
she may appreciate a stage one kit (exhaust filter & needle) as IIRC the mayfair is a 998 and goes like a wheezy nag with the standard setup...makes a very nice sound too, you'll hear her before she arrives & the ins will hardly be affected - get quotes from specialists like liverpool victoria, adrian flux or HHH
Sounds cool, tell me more about the filter?
And who are HHH?
EFI one's are post '91, If you're feeling lazy you can buy a completely new rear subframe with new brakes suspension etc already attached, not cheap though £450 -£500!!! :-0
get it up on a ramp and check underneath for rust, and inside, it may not be structural now but could be in 13 months if it's sat around.
get it up on a ramp and check underneath for rust, and inside, it may not be structural now but could be in 13 months if it's sat around.
.Mark said:
Sounds cool, tell me more about the filter?
And who are HHH?
the filter is a K&N cone filter, and together with an exhaust & new carb needle will provide a 20% power increase - up from roughly 40 to roughly 50 HP IIRC.
HHH is hill house hammond
the benchmark stage one kit is £165 from Minispares and fitting I guess you could do yourself (coming from a non mechanically minded person!)
Alternatively you can just get a free flow K&N element and drill 6 3/4" holes in the air filter housing. This way you get the performance of a pancake filter but without the induction roar of a pancake.
If you are going to go for a stage one then make sure the exhaust ISNT an LCB and 2" system as this on a standard 998 will probably rob power rather than add it.
The ones to look for are the Cooper Freeflow Manifold and 1.5" system.
Either way, once you're done you need to replace the needle jet and get it rolling road tuned.
If you are going to go for a stage one then make sure the exhaust ISNT an LCB and 2" system as this on a standard 998 will probably rob power rather than add it.
The ones to look for are the Cooper Freeflow Manifold and 1.5" system.
Either way, once you're done you need to replace the needle jet and get it rolling road tuned.
plotloss said: Alternatively you can just get a free flow K&N element and drill 6 3/4" holes in the air filter housing. This way you get the performance of a pancake filter but without the induction roar of a pancake.
oh but the induction noise is great!
If you are going to go for a stage one then make sure the exhaust ISNT an LCB and 2" system as this on a standard 998 will probably rob power rather than add it.
The ones to look for are the Cooper Freeflow Manifold and 1.5" system.
Either way, once you're done you need to replace the needle jet and get it rolling road tuned.
hmmm I didn't know that... why would a 2" pipe be less good than a 1.5" pipe?
oh and rolling road - seconded!
minimax said:
plotloss said: Alternatively you can just get a free flow K&N element and drill 6 3/4" holes in the air filter housing. This way you get the performance of a pancake filter but without the induction roar of a pancake.
oh but the induction noise is great!
If you are going to go for a stage one then make sure the exhaust ISNT an LCB and 2" system as this on a standard 998 will probably rob power rather than add it.
The ones to look for are the Cooper Freeflow Manifold and 1.5" system.
Either way, once you're done you need to replace the needle jet and get it rolling road tuned.
hmmm I didn't know that... why would a 2" pipe be less good than a 1.5" pipe?
oh and rolling road - seconded!
All naturally aspirated engines need some exhaustr system backpressure to run properly - too little backpressure and you loose power.
Having said that I've got a 2" system on mine and it sounds like a dragster
Changing the rear subframe's not such a big deal - OK so I had to grind all the bolts off , but it wasn't too bad.
How's the roll cage going tom?
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