HELP no oil pressure
Discussion
just nipped out for lunch in the vixen, on the way back the light came on and the gauge is reading nout at all . . . .has the pump failed? (i havent heard any untoward noises) or could it just be the sensors blocked and its kidding me? (mech gauge, elec switched light) . . .either way we're only 2 weeks from Lemans and Im worried . . .any simple way of testing it? (im at work 30 miles from home)
I have a few tools, and yes there is oil in it.
thanks anyone
I have a few tools, and yes there is oil in it.
thanks anyone
For gods sake dont run it until you know !
Do you know, are the gauge and the light both off the same sensor ? If so, I would suspect the sensor. If not then I'd have thought both sensors (/wires/gauges) failing at the same time would be very remote, and you HAVEN'T got any pressure.
Tip : whilst you are investigating, whip your spark plugs out. Turning the engine over like that, even with no oil pressure, wont harm much. If you are at it a long time, you can even put a couple of squirts or oil into the bores easy enough, if you're worried.
Not sure how you'd test the pump ....
Do you know, are the gauge and the light both off the same sensor ? If so, I would suspect the sensor. If not then I'd have thought both sensors (/wires/gauges) failing at the same time would be very remote, and you HAVEN'T got any pressure.
Tip : whilst you are investigating, whip your spark plugs out. Turning the engine over like that, even with no oil pressure, wont harm much. If you are at it a long time, you can even put a couple of squirts or oil into the bores easy enough, if you're worried.
Not sure how you'd test the pump ....
I think if I disconnect the ignition so it wont start, then whip off the rocker cover and turn it over, if the pumps working it should bring oil up. if not, maybe the pin in the drive of the pump has sheared?
I| havent got a plug spanner with me so looks like TVR is staying at work tonight, Ill load up the mondeo with spares and tools and come and get it in the morning
I| havent got a plug spanner with me so looks like TVR is staying at work tonight, Ill load up the mondeo with spares and tools and come and get it in the morning
Yup. If it is a mechanical guage and separate sensor for the warning light the indication is probably correct. Does the pressure guage have a tube going into the back of it rather than wires?
Have you been doing anything recently that might have dislodged or got oil onto a connector?
At the moment its probably tempting to sort it out another time. Considering the consequences of doing this wrong, I'd bite the bullet now. Get a mechanic to see it before driving it. 30 miles on a low-loader should cost no more than £50 if it's not an emergency, even if you're not a breakdown club member.
It's getting late now, but try to find a garage with a supplementary pressure guage for the Ford crossflow engine and a low loader. They should be much more accomodating on price if you're flexible with time.
If your car is secure at work, you could try to get a guage yourself tomorrow, but the cost will approach the cost of a tow and if pressure has gone you might eventually need that tow anyway.
Good luck
Have you been doing anything recently that might have dislodged or got oil onto a connector?
At the moment its probably tempting to sort it out another time. Considering the consequences of doing this wrong, I'd bite the bullet now. Get a mechanic to see it before driving it. 30 miles on a low-loader should cost no more than £50 if it's not an emergency, even if you're not a breakdown club member.
It's getting late now, but try to find a garage with a supplementary pressure guage for the Ford crossflow engine and a low loader. They should be much more accomodating on price if you're flexible with time.
If your car is secure at work, you could try to get a guage yourself tomorrow, but the cost will approach the cost of a tow and if pressure has gone you might eventually need that tow anyway.
Good luck
sorted . . .went home, had beer, collected car Saturday and changed the oil pump, all seems well . . .a post mortem on the old oil pump awaits, it was still turning etc so my gut feeling is that the pressure relief spring has given up??? so its still shifting oil but no pressure . . . .not good for bearings in the long run!
LeMans here we come . . .think Ill take a few spare bits just in case though
LeMans here we come . . .think Ill take a few spare bits just in case though
LOLOL yeah mate. The releif valve got jammed open, the engine had done 165000 miles tho!!!
Drove at least a mile back home with no oil pressure at all, yet it sounded and went completely normal.
Every car ive had ive used it in, never had a problem.
I reckon its pretty decent stuff(if a little pricey) but at the end of the day, its the only friction modifier that dosent require you to keep on adding it every time you change the oil.
Its a one shot treatment that bonds ptfe(polytetrafluoretheylene) to the metal surfaces. It uses the engine heat to accomplish it, thats why the reccomendation is to go for a drive after youve added it.
Drove at least a mile back home with no oil pressure at all, yet it sounded and went completely normal.
Every car ive had ive used it in, never had a problem.
I reckon its pretty decent stuff(if a little pricey) but at the end of the day, its the only friction modifier that dosent require you to keep on adding it every time you change the oil.
Its a one shot treatment that bonds ptfe(polytetrafluoretheylene) to the metal surfaces. It uses the engine heat to accomplish it, thats why the reccomendation is to go for a drive after youve added it.
deltaf said: LOLOL yeah mate. The releif valve got jammed open, the engine had done 165000 miles tho!!!
Drove at least a mile back home with no oil pressure at all, yet it sounded and went completely normal.
Every car ive had ive used it in, never had a problem.
I reckon its pretty decent stuff(if a little pricey) but at the end of the day, its the only friction modifier that dosent require you to keep on adding it every time you change the oil.
Its a one shot treatment that bonds ptfe(polytetrafluoretheylene) to the metal surfaces. It uses the engine heat to accomplish it, thats why the reccomendation is to go for a drive after youve added it.
I have a mate who's an oil consultant whose clients range from everyone from formula one teams to mining firms that run those massive pick up trucks that are as big as a house!
He could glaze your eyes open with his knowledge but whilst rebuilding his engine last night with him, i had a good chat. He recommends that slick 50 is not used, but a really high quality oil used instead with frequent changes. The reasons for this goes into the micron particle size department, but its quite interesting for me. I guess anyone who *uses* their engine properly needs to be thinking about these things if they want their engine to last a long time...
If you have not heard of them 'Royal Purple' oil products are aparently one the best - if not the best - on the market at the moment. If i ever get around to building my new engine it is what i am going to put in it. Gearbox oil is second to none.
Its (very) pricey but its reviews by pretty much everyone are quite amazing. You also would not need to change it as often.
If i can Deltaf, i will try and get some sort of info sheet as to this guys recommendations and post it on the engines forum. He has a bank of knowledge due to who he works with, so if there are any questions back i can get him to answer them.
BTW, i am not trying to have a go at your like of Slick 50, as its a personal thing and besides i respect your knowledge on this stuff appears greater than mine.
More interested in your opinions once you have read similar info to me..! Cheers Buff
royal purple eh . . . .Ive been wondering what to put in my precrossflow race engine when its done
still dont know what was wrong with my oil pump, the relief valve appears fine, the drive shaft of the pump was worn in the housing a bit, looks like somethings been in it, the drive gear is blue as well!
still dont know what was wrong with my oil pump, the relief valve appears fine, the drive shaft of the pump was worn in the housing a bit, looks like somethings been in it, the drive gear is blue as well!
On the subject of Slick 50, I used to work for Lubrizol, who produce about 54% of the worlds fuel, oil and marine additives.
The chemists in the labs there were VERY dismissive of Slick 50, basically saying it was something like 70% lube (or carrier) oil, and was just a big rip off. No harm in using it, except to your pocket, but dont expect it to do anything to your engine.
As above, they just said always use a good quality oil, which has already been balanced to get a good level of additives in the right quantities.
The chemists in the labs there were VERY dismissive of Slick 50, basically saying it was something like 70% lube (or carrier) oil, and was just a big rip off. No harm in using it, except to your pocket, but dont expect it to do anything to your engine.
As above, they just said always use a good quality oil, which has already been balanced to get a good level of additives in the right quantities.
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