Line lock question
Discussion
I have a Skyline R33 GTST and i'm really struggling to get the 60ft's down , my best 1/4 mile is 12.8@118mph my best 60ft is 2.09
, i think i could well get into the 11's if i can get a better 60ft.
My next mod will be better tyres perhaps drag radials or slicks and a line lock
The problem i have is that there are three pipes coming off the master cylinder, one feeds the rear brakes and two feed each front brake independantly.
Should i buy two line locks and fit one to each brake line or would one suffice ???
I did think about combining the two feeds but cant think of a way to do that that would compromise the brake performance and i do circuit track days as well
, i think i could well get into the 11's if i can get a better 60ft.My next mod will be better tyres perhaps drag radials or slicks and a line lock
The problem i have is that there are three pipes coming off the master cylinder, one feeds the rear brakes and two feed each front brake independantly.
Should i buy two line locks and fit one to each brake line or would one suffice ???
I did think about combining the two feeds but cant think of a way to do that that would compromise the brake performance and i do circuit track days as well
You'll need to buy two, I'm afraid. However- great fun though burnouts are, there's no real point on road tyres. Just burn ten pound notes and have the same effect. Drag slicks or radials, on the other hand.........
Also, forgive my ignorance of Skylines, but aren't they 4WD? A linelock is going to cause some very expensive smoke to come from the centre diff if they are.
Also, forgive my ignorance of Skylines, but aren't they 4WD? A linelock is going to cause some very expensive smoke to come from the centre diff if they are.
No not all Skylines are 4wd and even those have degrees of 4wd , there are quite a few models.
Mine is R33 GTST which is a 2.5 single turbo engine 2wd, the GTR is the twin turbo 4wd model.
The GTST is very tunable though but as i said i am struggling with 60fts, I'd like to fit slicks but they will NEED a burnout so need to sort the line lock out first , same goes for drag radials (probably MT ET Street radials) but they are sooo expensive.
I've tried to heel and toe for a burnout but that puts too much heat into the clutch
Most of my drag racing experience has been with bikes, racing in the ACU classes , the car stuff is all new to me
Mine is R33 GTST which is a 2.5 single turbo engine 2wd, the GTR is the twin turbo 4wd model.
The GTST is very tunable though but as i said i am struggling with 60fts, I'd like to fit slicks but they will NEED a burnout so need to sort the line lock out first , same goes for drag radials (probably MT ET Street radials) but they are sooo expensive.
I've tried to heel and toe for a burnout but that puts too much heat into the clutch
Most of my drag racing experience has been with bikes, racing in the ACU classes , the car stuff is all new to me
I just bought a mechanicla linelock from Ebay. It was a product by Mico- it looks like it is a hydraulic handbrake for a coomercial vehicle like a forklift or similar- £25 brand new.
Don't get shafted £60 a line for commercially available stuff when with a little research and a visit to a hydraulics depot you can get the same thing for half the price. I bought mechanical because I'm bringin my braking system inside the car- but there are plenty of high pressure solenoids out there for very little money.
Don't get shafted £60 a line for commercially available stuff when with a little research and a visit to a hydraulics depot you can get the same thing for half the price. I bought mechanical because I'm bringin my braking system inside the car- but there are plenty of high pressure solenoids out there for very little money.
liner33 said:
Already been shafted once and have one solenoid already , going to have to buy another to match , plus metric brake line fittings
Do you reckon a hydraulic factors will sell the latter ????
A motor factors will definitely sell the brake fittings, and also some copper pipe for you to make the new lines up.Do you reckon a hydraulic factors will sell the latter ????
liner33 said:
i'm going to need to convert a straight 1/8npt female thread to take a fitting that will allow a metric brake pipe with a flared fitting
just been all through this with a willwood porportioning valve, take my word for it, don't bother with factors/hydraulics firms, they haven't a clue. go straight to these guys, they are the business!http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPa...
I spoke to a friend who used to run in the street racer series and he has his line lock on the rear brakes
So he drives into the box , applies his line lock (the lever type) pulls away quickly and holds the footbrake down to keep the car from moving
is this the way others have thier set up ????
So he drives into the box , applies his line lock (the lever type) pulls away quickly and holds the footbrake down to keep the car from moving
is this the way others have thier set up ????
liner33 said:
I spoke to a friend who used to run in the street racer series and he has his line lock on the rear brakes
Yeah, I've got one like that on my road car. Through the water, flip the line lock on, stamp on the brake with your left foot, and hit the throttle with your right. When you're done, just release the brake, and roll out of the burnout. It works, but on balance, I prefer using the front brake solenoid type.Gassing Station | Drag Racing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff