Discussion
Hi All,
I've been trawling the net for hours trying to find out several things about minis. Then i found you guys!I've recently bought a 1996 mini cooper 1.3i. I've had a few minor problems with it and so far the garage i purchased it from have stuck to their warranty. Only I've noticed it is tilting to the left. I keep thinking it has flat tyres,could it be the sub frame?or the suspension? Is there a way i can tell? Also i found documentation that the suspension was lowered by an inch a few years ago,which causes havoc when going over speed humps. Is it worth getting it put back to it's original height or is there any other way to remedy this. Thank you so much for your time and help in advance.
I've been trawling the net for hours trying to find out several things about minis. Then i found you guys!I've recently bought a 1996 mini cooper 1.3i. I've had a few minor problems with it and so far the garage i purchased it from have stuck to their warranty. Only I've noticed it is tilting to the left. I keep thinking it has flat tyres,could it be the sub frame?or the suspension? Is there a way i can tell? Also i found documentation that the suspension was lowered by an inch a few years ago,which causes havoc when going over speed humps. Is it worth getting it put back to it's original height or is there any other way to remedy this. Thank you so much for your time and help in advance.
Edited by purplesinner on Tuesday 10th April 20:22
If its been cut down its had a third of an inch or so trimmed off a cone, makes the car sit an inch lower but this will of been done on both sides (hopefully!).
As Vroom says, its the cones, they do go eventually which leads to a sagging on one side or both. Not a difficult job (other than the rear front arm nuts) but does need a specialist tool (which most mechanics will either have or be able to fashion/acquire) to compress the springs. Get both sides done and its good for 10 years. The car will ride high for a bit after the swap but it will settle down after a while.
As Vroom says, its the cones, they do go eventually which leads to a sagging on one side or both. Not a difficult job (other than the rear front arm nuts) but does need a specialist tool (which most mechanics will either have or be able to fashion/acquire) to compress the springs. Get both sides done and its good for 10 years. The car will ride high for a bit after the swap but it will settle down after a while.
Many thanks PLOTLOSS,
Not only for taking the time to reply,but replying in a way I understand!
I've spoken to a few people and they bamboozle me with with words I can't even spell. I was dreading going to a garage and acting like a woman,without any knowledge of what the possible cause could be. Thankyou so much.
Not only for taking the time to reply,but replying in a way I understand!
I've spoken to a few people and they bamboozle me with with words I can't even spell. I was dreading going to a garage and acting like a woman,without any knowledge of what the possible cause could be. Thankyou so much.
Hello again, my Mini friends. I've not been on here for a while 'cause I've had a big problem logging on, but that's now sorted, thanks to Tony (Skyedriver).
Anyway, just to add to this a bit if I may.
To change the rubber cones it is necessary to remove the top suspension arms. Not a difficult job once the suspension compression tool has 'squeezed' the cones and the trumpet (strut) has been removed.
Tools needed are a ball-pin splitter, a suspension compression tool (also known as a tower tool), good socket set and some hand tools.
Make sure you use the correct thread on the tower tool as they are supplied with two types, fine thread for the early cars and course thread for the later ones. The tower tool shaft must be properly engaged in the thread of the rubber cone, so count the number of threads and turn it that number of turns.
It's advisable to change the plastic cups in the top suspension arm at the same time as the failure of this could be the cause of the sagging. In fact the plastic cup failure is the more normal cause of sagging on one side to any noticeable degree. After removing the plastic cup ensure that the hole in the top arm into which it sits is clean and smooth so that the new one will sit properly.
Parts needed are new rubber cones, new trumpets, new trumpet ball joints and cups.
It's not a bad job - good luck with it. Come back on here if you ahve any queries and we'll all help.
Peter
Anyway, just to add to this a bit if I may.
To change the rubber cones it is necessary to remove the top suspension arms. Not a difficult job once the suspension compression tool has 'squeezed' the cones and the trumpet (strut) has been removed.
Tools needed are a ball-pin splitter, a suspension compression tool (also known as a tower tool), good socket set and some hand tools.
Make sure you use the correct thread on the tower tool as they are supplied with two types, fine thread for the early cars and course thread for the later ones. The tower tool shaft must be properly engaged in the thread of the rubber cone, so count the number of threads and turn it that number of turns.
It's advisable to change the plastic cups in the top suspension arm at the same time as the failure of this could be the cause of the sagging. In fact the plastic cup failure is the more normal cause of sagging on one side to any noticeable degree. After removing the plastic cup ensure that the hole in the top arm into which it sits is clean and smooth so that the new one will sit properly.
Parts needed are new rubber cones, new trumpets, new trumpet ball joints and cups.
It's not a bad job - good luck with it. Come back on here if you ahve any queries and we'll all help.
Peter
I'd use huddersfield spares cheapy hilos and set the thing up properly, making it adjustable as it naturally sags.
As the cones sag, the suspension gets slightly stiffer which you can then adjust up and have ground clearance and better cornering.
I fitted new cones on my 66 and the front was right up with maximum adjustment down. It was also "boingy" until I tightened the shocks up beyond what I like (don't like overloading the inner wings)
As the cones sag, the suspension gets slightly stiffer which you can then adjust up and have ground clearance and better cornering.
I fitted new cones on my 66 and the front was right up with maximum adjustment down. It was also "boingy" until I tightened the shocks up beyond what I like (don't like overloading the inner wings)
I've often used spacer washers to raise the ride height back to normal after the cones have settled.
The ratios to remember are that it's 5:1 on the front and 8:1 on the rear. i.e., to raise the front 0.5", you need a 0.1" spacer washer between the ball and the bottom face of the trumpet.
When rebuilding this, it's best if you can use the old rubber cones because they do increase in spring-rate with time.
Thinking about it a bit more, the problem identified is more likely to be the plastic cup if it's significantly down on one side only.
Anyway, it's not a difficult job to change whatever is the cause.
Don't be afraid to really wind-up the tower tool, even though it's a bit daunting when first you do it. I've been doing this for 45 years and I've never had one 'let-go' yet! Don't forget to grease the tower tool shaft prior to engaging it into the rubber cone.
Also be careful when knocking the old ball out of the trumpet. The can corrode in and if in doubt you should soak in releasing fluid for a day then apply light heat from a butane torch. This will avoid the risk of cracking the cast aluminium trumpet.
I hope that's not too much information.
Peter
The ratios to remember are that it's 5:1 on the front and 8:1 on the rear. i.e., to raise the front 0.5", you need a 0.1" spacer washer between the ball and the bottom face of the trumpet.
When rebuilding this, it's best if you can use the old rubber cones because they do increase in spring-rate with time.
Thinking about it a bit more, the problem identified is more likely to be the plastic cup if it's significantly down on one side only.
Anyway, it's not a difficult job to change whatever is the cause.
Don't be afraid to really wind-up the tower tool, even though it's a bit daunting when first you do it. I've been doing this for 45 years and I've never had one 'let-go' yet! Don't forget to grease the tower tool shaft prior to engaging it into the rubber cone.
Also be careful when knocking the old ball out of the trumpet. The can corrode in and if in doubt you should soak in releasing fluid for a day then apply light heat from a butane torch. This will avoid the risk of cracking the cast aluminium trumpet.
I hope that's not too much information.
Peter
I once re-fitted a trumpet, but after releasing the tower tool found that the trumpet was not seated squarely in the recess in the cone. Thus the cone was distorted and the tower tool would not re-engage. I had to destroy the trumpet by drilling around it then smashing it to pieces with a big hammer. I've never made that mistake since and that was in about 1966 or thereabouts!
I can't thank you all enough. Although I have no idea what you're saying I have saved what comments you've made so I can pass them on to the person who eventually does the job.
Could I ask 2 more questions? Is driving it whilst it is sagging doing any damage? and does anybody know of a decent mini friendly garage near Market Harborough or Kettering? My mechanic said he hates working on minis!!
I'm at a very basic level of mini enthusiast. I've only recently bought it, just because i used to have a mini and missed my youth! It's the only car I've ever driven that makes me smile (and others!)
I would love to have the skill to maintain the car myself,but fear my dexterity and sheer stupidity would render the car useless.
Once again,many thanks for your help I can't tell you how much it is appreciated.
Could I ask 2 more questions? Is driving it whilst it is sagging doing any damage? and does anybody know of a decent mini friendly garage near Market Harborough or Kettering? My mechanic said he hates working on minis!!
I'm at a very basic level of mini enthusiast. I've only recently bought it, just because i used to have a mini and missed my youth! It's the only car I've ever driven that makes me smile (and others!)
I would love to have the skill to maintain the car myself,but fear my dexterity and sheer stupidity would render the car useless.
Once again,many thanks for your help I can't tell you how much it is appreciated.
Welcome back Peter, your wisdom has been missing these last few weeks.
Re the front suspension compression tool, I read and re read the book about this and then spoke to a friend who ran a mini based business in the NE. He told me that the threads in the top of the whatnot would be knackered because of the age of the car, the tool wouldn't work and just dismantle it from below. And he was right.
Tony H
Re the front suspension compression tool, I read and re read the book about this and then spoke to a friend who ran a mini based business in the NE. He told me that the threads in the top of the whatnot would be knackered because of the age of the car, the tool wouldn't work and just dismantle it from below. And he was right.
Tony H
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