What run in procedure for the 2.9 v6
What run in procedure for the 2.9 v6
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Discussion

Olav Bergman

Original Poster:

215 posts

242 months

Wednesday 28th March 2007
quotequote all
Hello All,

Although my engine is stil OK with 85000 miles on it. I bought a new one, 0 mls, complete, in factory cradle for 500 euro on german ebay and I will install it.

Does anyone know how to run in such a block? Does anyone have instructions for it? I must say I never bought a new car so...I don't really know. Can you help?

Cheers!

Olav Bergman
Holland
(See my messy site for details: www.olavbergman.nl )


Edited by Olav Bergman on Wednesday 28th March 20:18

spivvy

1,535 posts

283 months

Thursday 29th March 2007
quotequote all
i think the important thing is to control the amount of revs i seem to think 3500 to 4000 rpm or a maximum speed of 50 mph for the first 500 miles and then re torque head bolts then gradually increase speed and revs over the next 1000 miles ,it may be worth doing a oil change after 500 miles

just my thoughts as to how i would do it but others may disagree

bills1

305 posts

299 months

Saturday 7th April 2007
quotequote all
After the engine rebuild on my 2.8 I was advised to run it at min of 1500rpm and max 3000 for the first 500miles then change the oil and filter - very important
Then up the max revs to 3500 for the next 1000miles
and 4000rpm max for the next 1000 miles
and 4500rpm max for the next 1000 miles followed by another oil change and filter
you can now take her up to 5000 and after another 1000 miles go to 5500
Obviously anything over 5000 is a short burst during acceleration and when fully warmed up.

Never let the revs go below 1500rpm, so no labouring and keep changing the oil and filter every 3000 miles using semi synthetic 10-40. Fully synthetic is a bit thin for these 1970 designed engines.

For me this was 12000 miles ago and the engine runs sweet up to 6000 and the sound from 3000 to 5000 is pure symphony

best of luck

boosted ls1

21,200 posts

289 months

Saturday 7th April 2007
quotequote all
Give the throttle a quick burst on initial start up to bed the rings in and after that drive sensibly with varying loads and accelleration. You don't have to nurse it, that won't be good for it. After 100 miles you can start opening it up but still be considerate to the mechanicals. At say 500 miles do an oil and filter change.

Boosted.

clarenceboddiger

1,398 posts

244 months

Saturday 7th April 2007
quotequote all
boosted ls1 said:
Give the throttle a quick burst on initial start up to bed the rings in and after that drive sensibly with varying loads and accelleration. You don't have to nurse it, that won't be good for it. After 100 miles you can start opening it up but still be considerate to the mechanicals. At say 500 miles do an oil and filter change.

Boosted.

Fully agree , too many engines are glazed by lack of loading after a rebuild, do not leave it idling when you first start it, it puts little load on the pistons and they simply polish the bores.

boosted ls1

21,200 posts

289 months

Saturday 7th April 2007
quotequote all
bills1 said:
After the engine rebuild on my 2.8 I was advised to run it at min of 1500rpm and max 3000 for the first 500miles then change the oil and filter - very important
Then up the max revs to 3500 for the next 1000miles
and 4000rpm max for the next 1000 miles
and 4500rpm max for the next 1000 miles followed by another oil change and filter
you can now take her up to 5000 and after another 1000 miles go to 5500
Obviously anything over 5000 is a short burst during acceleration and when fully warmed up.

Never let the revs go below 1500rpm, so no labouring and keep changing the oil and filter every 3000 miles using semi synthetic 10-40. Fully synthetic is a bit thin for these 1970 designed engines.

For me this was 12000 miles ago and the engine runs sweet up to 6000 and the sound from 3000 to 5000 is pure symphony

best of luck


So it took a lot of miles to run it in then The first 1000 would have done it. Still at least it works well and that's what counts.

Boosted.

Olav Bergman

Original Poster:

215 posts

242 months

Monday 9th April 2007
quotequote all
Hello All,

Thanks for the advise! Those are good tips. I heard about a car engine becoming "lazy" when run in too carefull. Is that any way true?
The engine is still in the proces of being installed. I'm working on the fuel rail and waiting for the spigot bearing to arrive. After that box and engine can be mated...first start up will not be sooner than june?

Cheers

olav

lastlawyer

135 posts

264 months

Tuesday 10th April 2007
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Dear Sirs,

don´t want to offend anyone here. But please be aware of the fact, that the S1 2.8 and the S2 2.9 litre Engines were built into the Ford Granadas, Sierras and Scorpios. Those were Ford-Cologne mass-productions and helped the turkish people living in germany to drive from cologne to the bosporus twice a year.

without any "good-oil" but certainly with a lack of inspections.

5.500 revs is about Max. both engines can and should do. In the Fords they never ever had the chance to reach 5.500 revs due to the fact that the cars were simply to heavy and simply braked by the wind. Only the Ford-based TVRs are able to reach those high revs (without further mods) since they are much lighter than the Fords. But you will nearly never reach 6.000 revs on a plane highway

bill1 advises are good, but good for any rebuilt engine.
i personally would give him a simple 15W40 Oil (drive mine with that, but was not rebuilt). 10W40 might be better when driving during winter.

Don´t care to much about the engine. The Granada Engine is well known as kind of indestructable.

Regards

LL