Jacking height - Noble?
Discussion
You'll need one thats less then 12cm if you don't want to have to drive on to blocks first.
Best to measure your car.
Also, I found the cheapest and easiest way is just to get a £40 low level jack (maplin) and jack it in the middle at the back and front, you lift both wheels at the same time (front or rear) and it won't "twist" the chasis at all.
HTH
G
Best to measure your car.
Also, I found the cheapest and easiest way is just to get a £40 low level jack (maplin) and jack it in the middle at the back and front, you lift both wheels at the same time (front or rear) and it won't "twist" the chasis at all.
HTH
G
AMG Merc said:
Am looking at purchasing one of those electric scissor-jacks. What's the minimum height under the lowest jacking points on the Noble? Cheers.
Just been and measured mine, and 115mm is the tallest I'd get under. But, Rob, didn't we come to the conclusion that yours is slightly lower than mine? Perhaps you'd better measure it to be safe, or take it to the shop and physically try it.
Martin.
Mr Noble said:
Also, I found the cheapest and easiest way is just to get a £40 low level jack (maplin) and jack it in the middle at the back and front, you lift both wheels at the same time (front or rear) and it won't "twist" the chasis at all.
HTH
G
HTH
G
Also, a good point thanks Gre, Although, if I can get the electric jack under the centre too then both sides will lift but with much less elbow-grease.
Jacking in the centre is the preferred option IMHO. Dead easy to do at the rear due to the slope of the splitter, not that hard at the front.
I always keep two small blocks with my jack anyway - and remember that if the jack has the normal "castellated" cup then you'll need to factor in a small block of wood to stop it punching through the floor pan.
J
I always keep two small blocks with my jack anyway - and remember that if the jack has the normal "castellated" cup then you'll need to factor in a small block of wood to stop it punching through the floor pan.
J
V6GTO said:
AMG Merc said:
Am looking at purchasing one of those electric scissor-jacks. What's the minimum height under the lowest jacking points on the Noble? Cheers.
Just been and measured mine, and 115mm is the tallest I'd get under. But, Rob, didn't we come to the conclusion that yours is slightly lower than mine? Perhaps you'd better measure it to be safe, or take it to the shop and physically try it.
Martin.
Mines only 75mm.
But thats with me in it
worty
joust said:
Jacking in the centre is the preferred option IMHO. Dead easy to do at the rear due to the slope of the splitter, not that hard at the front.
I always keep two small blocks with my jack anyway - and remember that if the jack has the normal "castellated" cup then you'll need to factor in a small block of wood to stop it punching through the floor pan.
J
I always keep two small blocks with my jack anyway - and remember that if the jack has the normal "castellated" cup then you'll need to factor in a small block of wood to stop it punching through the floor pan.
J
Yep, I won't forget to protect add protection, thanks!
AMG Merc said:
joust said:
Jacking in the centre is the preferred option IMHO. Dead easy to do at the rear due to the slope of the splitter, not that hard at the front.
I always keep two small blocks with my jack anyway - and remember that if the jack has the normal "castellated" cup then you'll need to factor in a small block of wood to stop it punching through the floor pan.
J
I always keep two small blocks with my jack anyway - and remember that if the jack has the normal "castellated" cup then you'll need to factor in a small block of wood to stop it punching through the floor pan.
J
Yep, I won't forget to protect add protection, thanks!
Low level Aluminium jack here.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dl
there are cheaper ones available if you look hard enough!
F.C.
ajg31 said:
F.C. where else is there? looking myself, and could only find what you have i.e fleabay
www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?partno=144440E
www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/ctj1250a-11-4-tonne-aluminium-trolley-jack
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALUMINIUM-LOW-P
Also found this useful looking piece of kit:
www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?partno=145883E
F.C.
joust said:
Jacking in the centre is the preferred option IMHO. Dead easy to do at the rear due to the slope of the splitter, not that hard at the front.
I always keep two small blocks with my jack anyway - and remember that if the jack has the normal "castellated" cup then you'll need to factor in a small block of wood to stop it punching through the floor pan.
J
I always keep two small blocks with my jack anyway - and remember that if the jack has the normal "castellated" cup then you'll need to factor in a small block of wood to stop it punching through the floor pan.
J
Joust - I usually do a corner at a time using the points where the chassis sits on the jig. Would be more convenient to do 2 wheels at a time, so where abouts exactly are the central jacking points for front and rear?
At the front, I can see that if you use the point right underneath the towing eye that should be fine. But at the rear I can't seem to locate anywhere that dosn't give a 'hollow' ring to the tap-test. (Surest way to make sure you don't try and use an unsupported bit of undertray!) Can you describe (or even better show a piccie) of where abouts exactly you position the jack at the rear of the car.
Muchos Ta.
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