Changing manifolds - tips.
Discussion
Are the manifolds the same as the ones currently on Corin? God forbid they aren't 
You'll need a 8mm hex drive for the starter.
When you take the manifold bolts out, shove them into some card so you know where they came from, because i'm sure I had one which was shorter than the rest and ended up putting an extra washer on it. Its not a big deal but will help your sanity when you're trying to put the new bolt in.
You might need to swing the alternator out of the way, so have a couple of 13mm spanners handy. might be a chance to swap the belt while your at it.
What are your belly pan bushes like? they cost next to nothing so if you have to drop the whole exhaust to get at the nearside manifold bolts like I did, its a good opportunity to change them. Mine were completely shot but the garage never mentioned it.
Don't think its a good chance to start repainting your chassis. It'll still be on ramps a month from now
You'll need a 8mm hex drive for the starter.
When you take the manifold bolts out, shove them into some card so you know where they came from, because i'm sure I had one which was shorter than the rest and ended up putting an extra washer on it. Its not a big deal but will help your sanity when you're trying to put the new bolt in.
You might need to swing the alternator out of the way, so have a couple of 13mm spanners handy. might be a chance to swap the belt while your at it.
What are your belly pan bushes like? they cost next to nothing so if you have to drop the whole exhaust to get at the nearside manifold bolts like I did, its a good opportunity to change them. Mine were completely shot but the garage never mentioned it.
Don't think its a good chance to start repainting your chassis. It'll still be on ramps a month from now
up every T.V. up in the neighbourhood! 
Bomber Denton said:
Ian, the manifolds going on are the ACT modified items with the non reversal cones and pre-cats removed. Also going on is a de-catted y piece and bolted onto the sleeved exhaust.
Just check a couple of things out then Corin.
Do the tubes running to the ports follow the same route?
Measure your current manifold from port to outside edge and then the same with the new ones.
These two checks will just confirm everything will fit first time.
My problem, as it turned out, wasn't with an ACT manifold (although Tim has been brilliant with his help anyway, so you've no worries there) but I've had to mod one inner wing to get my SS manifolds to fit so it's just worth checking before you get started.
It's a relatively easy job to do, but you will need to get the car high off the ground to get your hands to starter and manifold bolts from underneath.
Have fun
Whipped off the near side manifold today and I have to say the biggest investment you can make is to get yourself a new 14mm Snap-On flank drive spanner. I tweaked a couple of the manifold bolts last Saturday and the top bolt on the near side closest to the bulkhead was slipping showing signs of being a right old rounded bastard even with a standard Snap-On spanner!
Invested in a Snap-On flank and it bit enough to work it and with a bit of back and forth persuasion it worked a treat.
Tim (ACT) phoned up the other day and mentioned a 'home made' long spanner where you cut a spanner in half and rivet a long pole to it to get to the underside bolts. From doing the job today I wish I had such a tool.
Tim knows his onions.
Invested in a Snap-On flank and it bit enough to work it and with a bit of back and forth persuasion it worked a treat.
Tim (ACT) phoned up the other day and mentioned a 'home made' long spanner where you cut a spanner in half and rivet a long pole to it to get to the underside bolts. From doing the job today I wish I had such a tool.
Tim knows his onions.
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