Discussion
No more rack the company that made them went bust years ago
some info
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=11&h=&t=134231
Might pay you to drop bridgdav a line
some info
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=11&h=&t=134231
Might pay you to drop bridgdav a line

Yep, a refurb it will be. I don't think you have come up against an overzealous MOT inspector: a worn steering rack is quite a typical TVR S problem. The rack is actually a modified Vauxhall Chevette rack, a car with about half the weight, power and tyre width of an S. No wonder they wear so quickly! Usually it's only the bush and the inner ball joints that wear. The ball joints can be adjusted, even do-able for the DIY'er (I guess Haynes would rate it a three spanner job), for the bush you'll need an engineering firm. Not all steering racks have a separate bush though: My rack was running direcly in the aluminium of the housing, so the housing had to be machined to accept the new bush.
If its a Chevette rack as someone suggested, theres a recon one on ebay now if that helps..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XLR235-NEW-RECO
good luck
K
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XLR235-NEW-RECO
good luck
K
ketvrin said:
If its a Chevette rack as someone suggested, theres a recon one on ebay now if that helps..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XLR235-NEW-RECO
good luck
K
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XLR235-NEW-RECO
good luck
K
It's BASED on a Chevette rack but it's NOT standard - a Chevette rack might give you useful bits but won't fit straight on.
So, I wandered into my local motor spares shop with my rack and said "Can you recondition this mate?". "Well it'll take three days" he said "'cos I'll have to send it off"
Car looks very forelorn on the drives sans front wheels and steering...
So, having taken the rack off, (and I'm replacing track rod ends UJs etc) any golden nuggets for getting the steering wheel straight when I put it all back together?
Car looks very forelorn on the drives sans front wheels and steering...
So, having taken the rack off, (and I'm replacing track rod ends UJs etc) any golden nuggets for getting the steering wheel straight when I put it all back together?
Edited by GreyChris on Saturday 10th March 17:57
GreyChris said:
All done! Rack reconditioned and looked so good I thought it was new! Guessed where the splines needed to go and the steering wheel is (almost) straight; will give it a week or so to settle and "jiggle the track rod ends). P&J back on road with nice new ticket. Thanks all
Careful about "jiggling" track rod ends. Both steering arms should be as close as possible to the same length, else you induce bump steer.
After a rack change you SHOULD adjust both arms to the same length, then adjust toe equally each side, then straighten steering wheel.
Edited by tvrgit on Saturday 17th March 20:35
SS2. said:
Care to share roughly how much, Chris ? Would be useful info for others..
Well I did the full bit and had new track rod ends fitted as well, came to £125 inc VAT; I did get another quote "well won't know exactly until we see what needs doing but should be around £80", so I probably paid over the odds, but as I said fast refurb service and nicely finished.
tvrgit said:
Careful about "jiggling" track rod ends. Both steering arms should be as close as possible to the same length, else you induce bump steer.
After a rack change you SHOULD adjust both arms to the same length, then adjust toe equally each side, then straighten steering wheel.
Edited by tvrgit on Saturday 17th March 20:35
Good point, but when you say "then straighten the steering wheel, are you saying take it off the splines and refit?
GreyChris said:
tvrgit said:
Careful about "jiggling" track rod ends. Both steering arms should be as close as possible to the same length, else you induce bump steer.
After a rack change you SHOULD adjust both arms to the same length, then adjust toe equally each side, then straighten steering wheel.
Edited by tvrgit on Saturday 17th March 20:35
Good point, but when you say "then straighten the steering wheel, are you saying take it off the splines and refit?
If you have centralised the rack, both wheels are pointing straight ahead (or with the right amount of toe in/out) and both steering rods are the same length, but the steering wheel is still squint, then it must have been fitted on the wrong splines, so yes it should be refitted in the right place.
Unlike the procedure adopted by most of the tyre / exhaust places I have seen which is "clamp steering wheel straight then adjust wheel alignment" - yes they get the wheel alignment right (well sometimes they do) but they do not necessarily eliminate bump steer (and could make it worse than it was). Customers get a car back that goes in a nice straight line with the steering wheel lined up, but can't understand why it handles "funny" on bumpy bits.
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