Good vibrations???
Discussion
Before popping the engine back in, I'm giving the beastie a look over for any signs of wear or undesirable chafing....
.....look what I found:
Now the engine mount is a steel/rubber/steel sandwich right, but is the upper plate (engine side) supposed to foul the chassis plate at the points shown in the pics? Surely the engine is insulated by the rubber, unless of course the two upper plate returns are there just to act as 'stops' when the engine is trying to turn!!
Anyone any experience of this?
Ta in advance.
Pete
.....look what I found:
Now the engine mount is a steel/rubber/steel sandwich right, but is the upper plate (engine side) supposed to foul the chassis plate at the points shown in the pics? Surely the engine is insulated by the rubber, unless of course the two upper plate returns are there just to act as 'stops' when the engine is trying to turn!!
Anyone any experience of this?
Ta in advance.
Pete
Hi Pete
I think everyone using those engine mounts and have removed an engine have found the same problem. Mine was the same. I think most people just grind back the two lugs to stop them touching the chassis plate. You could always fit some better quality polyurethane mounts such as these from summit racing.
Regards Dave
I think everyone using those engine mounts and have removed an engine have found the same problem. Mine was the same. I think most people just grind back the two lugs to stop them touching the chassis plate. You could always fit some better quality polyurethane mounts such as these from summit racing.
Regards Dave
If you use the ones Dave is suggesting you will need to grind a chamfer along the top edge of the mount plate on the chassis.
If you look at the mount picture you can see where the material bends up with the plastic following it. The radius formed at that point will prevent the mount sitting down on the chassis unless you apply the chamfer.
Steve
If you look at the mount picture you can see where the material bends up with the plastic following it. The radius formed at that point will prevent the mount sitting down on the chassis unless you apply the chamfer.
Steve
steve_d said:
If you use the ones Dave is suggesting you will need to grind a chamfer along the top edge of the mount plate on the chassis.
If you look at the mount picture you can see where the material bends up with the plastic following it. The radius formed at that point will prevent the mount sitting down on the chassis unless you apply the chamfer.
Steve
If you look at the mount picture you can see where the material bends up with the plastic following it. The radius formed at that point will prevent the mount sitting down on the chassis unless you apply the chamfer.
Steve
I found they fitted with out modification. They have a 90° bend. Not a radius. Plus the main bolt hole is slotted which helps when fitting.
Regards Dave
Lucky,
I’ve had the same problem of broken engine mounts before. I’ve seen people use solid plates, chains and other devices to limit motor movement to prevent separating or breaking the mount. I drilled an over sized hole down through the center then drilled and taped another hole to receive a bolt that allowed movement but limited it from breaking the mount. If you want more info I can send you a sketch of this street stock racer info.
David
I’ve had the same problem of broken engine mounts before. I’ve seen people use solid plates, chains and other devices to limit motor movement to prevent separating or breaking the mount. I drilled an over sized hole down through the center then drilled and taped another hole to receive a bolt that allowed movement but limited it from breaking the mount. If you want more info I can send you a sketch of this street stock racer info.
David
Edited by dfpat10 on Tuesday 3rd July 04:23
Bought a set of the Energy Suspension mounts from Real Steel - from what I can see they are they are the same as those chrome ones from Summit, but with black PU and a zinc passivate.
The top rad that Steve and Dave mentioned isn't an issue, but the weld rad of the side tabs on the underside of the mount dooes foul on the chassis plate.
Did you find that Dave? Is the solution to give that plate a chamfer to allow the mount to drop into place?
Any ideas or alternative mount suggestions welcome.
The top rad that Steve and Dave mentioned isn't an issue, but the weld rad of the side tabs on the underside of the mount dooes foul on the chassis plate.
Did you find that Dave? Is the solution to give that plate a chamfer to allow the mount to drop into place?
Any ideas or alternative mount suggestions welcome.
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