How do i build myself a panhard bar....
Discussion
bugger....the message (which seems to have disappeared) was.
As a first project I want to fab a panhard bar for a big heavy yank.
I intended to buy CDS tubing + 2 rod ends and somehow fashion some inserts (nuts turned down and inserted perhaps) that will allow these rod ends to be threaded - left and right for on car adjusting - into the tube.
I don't know what sizes od / wall thickness / specs /etc of tubing or rod ends to go for.
can anyone help. I had a look on Merlins site and also rally design but there is quite a range of options.
The car already has a pressed steel bar with mounts on axle and chassis.
I only use the car occasionally and hope to hit track days at knockhill next year.
As a first project I want to fab a panhard bar for a big heavy yank.
I intended to buy CDS tubing + 2 rod ends and somehow fashion some inserts (nuts turned down and inserted perhaps) that will allow these rod ends to be threaded - left and right for on car adjusting - into the tube.
I don't know what sizes od / wall thickness / specs /etc of tubing or rod ends to go for.
can anyone help. I had a look on Merlins site and also rally design but there is quite a range of options.
The car already has a pressed steel bar with mounts on axle and chassis.
I only use the car occasionally and hope to hit track days at knockhill next year.
First spherical rod ends. High quality 1/2" x 1/2" will do. Ensure they have a reinforced PTFE liner otherwise they will wear out quickly and rattle.
Tube size is a function of length but I would be using around 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" by 18swg or 16 swg for a yank.
There are companies that will sell threaded tube inserts, but I cant remember which. But the inserts need to go into the tube by about 30mm. Drill a hole in the tube and weld through the hole onto the insert (rosette weld) or slash cut the end of the tube. This means some of the welds will be loaded in shear and not tension.
I always position my panhard rods horizontal along the centre of the back of the axle as long as possible. But there is more science to it regarding roll centres.
John
Tube size is a function of length but I would be using around 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" by 18swg or 16 swg for a yank.
There are companies that will sell threaded tube inserts, but I cant remember which. But the inserts need to go into the tube by about 30mm. Drill a hole in the tube and weld through the hole onto the insert (rosette weld) or slash cut the end of the tube. This means some of the welds will be loaded in shear and not tension.
I always position my panhard rods horizontal along the centre of the back of the axle as long as possible. But there is more science to it regarding roll centres.
John
Is this all I would need to buy then ?
After a bit of searching around I found some inserts etc on the rallye design page.
These are rod ends from NATIONAL'S PTFE LINED HEAVY DUTY RACE CAR SERIES.
The sales blurb quotes...........
1/2 Bore x 1/2 UNF MALE, L/H
A superior bearing from National, ideal for highly loaded applications (example RMX8T, 1/2" by 5/8 UNF, 31,350 lbs loading). A chrome moly steel threepiece rod end designed for dragster rear suspension and highly loaded Formula car applications.
MATERIALS
BALL
52100 Steel
RC 56 Min
Hard Chrome Plated
BODY
Low Carbon Steel
Zinc Plated
Clear Chromate Finish
RACE
Low Carbon Steel
Zinc Plated
Clear Chromate Finish
I was able to find the inserts locknuts and some tubing as well.......
What's In My Cart?
Remove Product(s) Qty. Total
1/2 Bore x 1/2 UNF MALE, L/H £18.41
1/2 Bore x 1/2 UNF MALE, R/H £18.28
1/2 L/H UNF Threaded Insert £2.46
1/2 R/H UNF Threaded Insert £2.32
1/2 Bore x 1/2 LH Imperial Male Locknut £0.48
1/2 Bore x 1/2 RH Imperial Male Locknut £0.21
Tube for 1/2" UNF Inserts 1m Long £5.02
PLEASE NOTE: All prices exclude VAT at 17.5%.
This is calculated and added during the checkout procedure.
Sub-Total: £47.18
Have I omitted anything ? thanks if you can help.
After a bit of searching around I found some inserts etc on the rallye design page.
These are rod ends from NATIONAL'S PTFE LINED HEAVY DUTY RACE CAR SERIES.
The sales blurb quotes...........
1/2 Bore x 1/2 UNF MALE, L/H
A superior bearing from National, ideal for highly loaded applications (example RMX8T, 1/2" by 5/8 UNF, 31,350 lbs loading). A chrome moly steel threepiece rod end designed for dragster rear suspension and highly loaded Formula car applications.
MATERIALS
BALL
52100 Steel
RC 56 Min
Hard Chrome Plated
BODY
Low Carbon Steel
Zinc Plated
Clear Chromate Finish
RACE
Low Carbon Steel
Zinc Plated
Clear Chromate Finish
I was able to find the inserts locknuts and some tubing as well.......
What's In My Cart?
Remove Product(s) Qty. Total
1/2 Bore x 1/2 UNF MALE, L/H £18.41
1/2 Bore x 1/2 UNF MALE, R/H £18.28
1/2 L/H UNF Threaded Insert £2.46
1/2 R/H UNF Threaded Insert £2.32
1/2 Bore x 1/2 LH Imperial Male Locknut £0.48
1/2 Bore x 1/2 RH Imperial Male Locknut £0.21
Tube for 1/2" UNF Inserts 1m Long £5.02
PLEASE NOTE: All prices exclude VAT at 17.5%.
This is calculated and added during the checkout procedure.
Sub-Total: £47.18
Have I omitted anything ? thanks if you can help.
Edited by tpivette on Monday 19th February 15:17
Ok parts have started to arrive and I have been to my local steel merchant and bought 3mm wall tube.....I then decided to up the size of the rod ends for the panhard bar to 3/4inch and decided to just use the 1/2 inch rod ends to construct a simple strut brace.
I have templated a basic bracket for the strut brace that will sit on top of the strut tower. If you imagine a |_| shaped channel with a 1/2 inch hole drilled through the uprights you wont be far wrong. This 1/2 inch hole will be used to mount a 1/2 inch bolt that will run fore aft which will fix the 1/2 inch rod end in place.
I was going to get grade 10.9 bolts, and I presume that the rod end should sit on the unthreaded shank of the bolt, is this a must and also whats the best way of taking up the slack that will exist either side of the rod end i.e stop the rod end moving back and forward along the bolt shank ? Can i just pack it with washers ?
www.fbody.com/tech/photos/phatfiddler795.jpg
shows the mounting bracket style but i am using left and right handed rod ends so its adjustable.
I have templated a basic bracket for the strut brace that will sit on top of the strut tower. If you imagine a |_| shaped channel with a 1/2 inch hole drilled through the uprights you wont be far wrong. This 1/2 inch hole will be used to mount a 1/2 inch bolt that will run fore aft which will fix the 1/2 inch rod end in place.
I was going to get grade 10.9 bolts, and I presume that the rod end should sit on the unthreaded shank of the bolt, is this a must and also whats the best way of taking up the slack that will exist either side of the rod end i.e stop the rod end moving back and forward along the bolt shank ? Can i just pack it with washers ?
www.fbody.com/tech/photos/phatfiddler795.jpg
shows the mounting bracket style but i am using left and right handed rod ends so its adjustable.
Edited by tpivette on Tuesday 27th February 14:24
You ideally turn up tapered spacers to fit each side of the joint. You can buy these from probably the same place as you bought the other parts.
The weakest part of a bolt is at the end of the threads where it goes to the smooth shank. So you should avoid having this at a point of high stress. Points of high stress are at changes in section, so ideally this part will lie within the washer at the outside of the brackets. This will mean you will have to cut a load of thread off your industrial bolts.
The weakest part of a bolt is at the end of the threads where it goes to the smooth shank. So you should avoid having this at a point of high stress. Points of high stress are at changes in section, so ideally this part will lie within the washer at the outside of the brackets. This will mean you will have to cut a load of thread off your industrial bolts.
Website...... www.beardmorebros.co.uk ...... books also mentioned on the site.
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