Xflow sump gasket
Discussion
Should sump gaskets on dry sump systems (metal pressed steel pan) be (thick) card or cork, or doesn't it matter ?
Burtons have sent me a card gasket, but now I'm tightening it up I'm not overly convinced it's going to be thick enough to seal totally (the old, fairly thick cork gasket was quite compressed)
Also, anyone know offhand what lb/ft I should tighten to ? (I really must get a manual !)
Burtons have sent me a card gasket, but now I'm tightening it up I'm not overly convinced it's going to be thick enough to seal totally (the old, fairly thick cork gasket was quite compressed)
Also, anyone know offhand what lb/ft I should tighten to ? (I really must get a manual !)
Not certain of the torque as I too have mislaid the manual. The gasket supplied is usually fitted with a light sealant, applied to the block, then fit gasket, then applied to either other side of gasket or sump [something like Hylomar would be good, available from most engine rebuilders]
typically paper is used with aluminium as its harder/ more rigid, paper is denser and you get a better seal
cork is used for pressed steel as its form isnt so good, as corks softer it will take up any fluctuations
both the last ford kent engines I dismantled had no gasket, just copious amounts of silicone sealant, its seems to work well, as long as all is clean and dry prior to assembly
cork is used for pressed steel as its form isnt so good, as corks softer it will take up any fluctuations
both the last ford kent engines I dismantled had no gasket, just copious amounts of silicone sealant, its seems to work well, as long as all is clean and dry prior to assembly
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