Front Shock bottom bolt seized on my1990 Turbo.

[superdave]

Help, Iam changing the front shocks and the bottom bolt is completely seized to the frame and sleeve. I can get the bolt off no problem but the bolt on the other side doesn't even budge, can't even turn it with a spanner. I've drowned it in WD40 and left it for hours, coming back to dowse it again, but still won't budge.
Any ideas? The threaded end is obstructed by a diagonal bar right in front of it so I can't even t**t the bolt out!
My Lotus engineering is contiplating cutting the bolt ans old shock to get it out.
Not bothered about the damage to the old bolt as I will put a new one in.

Cheers,



Dave Walters

[lwasson]

Take a reciprocating saw and cut that sucker. My '83 had a few seized bolts and when we cut them we discovered they were bent.

[lotusguy]

Dave,

As mentioned, cutting will work, but you might try heating it with a propane torch then put a breaker bar on it and give it a good hard twist, should do the job equally well. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE

[cnh1990]

lotusguy said: Dave,

As mentioned, cutting will work, but you might try heating it with a propane torch then put a breaker bar on it and give it a good hard twist, should do the job equally well. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE

If that doesn't work put a long pipe on the end of the breaker bar and if it doesn't come loose it will snap off the nut or bolt.
Calvin

[superdave]

Thanks guys, unfortunately I don't have those sort of tools. Iam booked tommorrow at PNM Engineering, he did say that he will have to apply heat to it.
Seemed a shame to pay someone to remove a damned bolt. It'll probably take them about half a day if I'm lucky, but never mind, I'll have to work harder now to pay for the bill when I get it back.
Wasn't too bad though, when it was in the last time. He replaced the top ball joint on the front nearside because there was too much play for £35 (supplied & fitted).
The shocks are courtesy of a guy in Scotland for £20/each (S4 shocks).
So I'm not doing too badly hey.

Cheers,


Dave Walters

[superdave]

Well got my car back today with one side done. PNM tried everything, heat etc. In the end they welded a threaded bar onto the hex bolt end, put a tube over with a big nut and extracted it that way without any damage whatsoever!
It was a different matter on the other side. The threaded bar sheared away from the weld twice and the bolt is still seized. First he tried 10mm threaded bar and then 12mm bar. Both sheared away from the weld, some force there!
He will have another go tommorrow.


Cheers,



Dave Walters

[greezmunky]

Nothing to contribute.. however this problem can be avoided by taking your car apart on a regular basis. This leads to other problems though... pissed off wife, leftover parts, etc.

[maigret]

An investment in a nut cracker (not the type used for Walnuts) is wise. A cheap but effective tool. It is often not necessary to break the nut. The action of the nut cracker expands the nut and this allows the penetrating oil to enter the threads.
Or have a metal dolly or hammer on the back of the nut, preferably held by an assistant. Then attempt to split the nut axially with a chisel through centre line. This expands the nut and if you're lucky cracks it.

[superdave]

Not sure how a nutcracker works, but the way you describe it might not be the tool for the job. I can get the nut off no problem. It's the bolt, can't pull it out as it's corroded to the metal sleeve inside the shock. Can't hit it with a hammer as it may damage the suspension parts on the other side (tried anyway still didn't work). The hex bolt at the other end is that stuck that you can't even turn it with a spanner! Even if I could this probably would still be stuck to the metal sleeve and would shear from the rubber around the shock and still be stuck.
The only proper way would be to pull without swisting the bolt I think.
If any tool outthere is upto the job then someone please let me know as my garage bill is steadily rising!!

Cheers,


Dave Walters

maigret said: An investment in a nut cracker (not the type used for Walnuts) is wise. A cheap but effective tool. It is often not necessary to break the nut. The action of the nut cracker expands the nut and this allows the penetrating oil to enter the threads.
Or have a metal dolly or hammer on the back of the nut, preferably held by an assistant. Then attempt to split the nut axially with a chisel through centre line. This expands the nut and if you're lucky cracks it.