Removing top ball joint on front Suspension
Discussion
Don't know if it's the same but I have just changed the top joint on my S last weekend, and found that an ordinary socket and a very short extension (I used a UJ) reached perfectly.
Getting the new nut on (or to be precise, the washer) was a bit more fiddly, but not too hard.
My joint was knackered so I didn't worry too much about one of those screw-type joint splitters - I used the one you just hammer between the joint and the hub. The new joint was only £11 so the old one wasn't worth saving.
There are pics on my web site www.tvrgit.com under December, so you can compare the hub shape if necessary.
Getting the new nut on (or to be precise, the washer) was a bit more fiddly, but not too hard.
My joint was knackered so I didn't worry too much about one of those screw-type joint splitters - I used the one you just hammer between the joint and the hub. The new joint was only £11 so the old one wasn't worth saving.
There are pics on my web site www.tvrgit.com under December, so you can compare the hub shape if necessary.
jellison said:
On Chim / Griff (or maybe all same with the Sierra Hubs?) - Do you need to take the whole hub off to get at the nut on the balljoint (recessed in there) / get a balljoint splitter in there?
Or easier just to get new hubs! Damn cheap anyway?
Or easier just to get new hubs! Damn cheap anyway?
Think they're all the same as the S series - Ford uprights, a TVR bespoke cast adapter shoved in the top where the strut would normally go, and a Saab balljoint in the top. Take out the pinch bolt and drift the adapter out of the upright, the balljoint then presses out of the adapter as normal.
You don't have to knock the pressing out - read what I said and look at the pics.
It works - I just did it last weekend!
(Edited to add - mainly because I didn't realise till I was nearly finished, that the top bit was separate from the rest of the hub... but anyway...)
It works - I just did it last weekend!
(Edited to add - mainly because I didn't realise till I was nearly finished, that the top bit was separate from the rest of the hub... but anyway...)
Edited by tvrgit on Friday 5th January 15:53
tvrgit said:
Don't know if it's the same but I have just changed the top joint on my S last weekend, and found that an ordinary socket and a very short extension (I used a UJ) reached perfectly.
Getting the new nut on (or to be precise, the washer) was a bit more fiddly, but not too hard.
My joint was knackered so I didn't worry too much about one of those screw-type joint splitters - I used the one you just hammer between the joint and the hub. The new joint was only £11 so the old one wasn't worth saving.
There are pics on my web site www.tvrgit.com under December, so you can compare the hub shape if necessary.
Gotcha - top wishbone different but rest the same - will get it sorted - did not want to hammer in there till have other car back on road - in Chim every day at the mo - could be worse Getting the new nut on (or to be precise, the washer) was a bit more fiddly, but not too hard.
My joint was knackered so I didn't worry too much about one of those screw-type joint splitters - I used the one you just hammer between the joint and the hub. The new joint was only £11 so the old one wasn't worth saving.
There are pics on my web site www.tvrgit.com under December, so you can compare the hub shape if necessary.
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