2.9 Water Pump .....

[hargo]

Morning all,

The water pump started leaking from behind the pulley last night.

I've searched and I think the one that is needed is the QH2672. Can anyone confirm that this is still the right number before I order it to save any hassle.

Also, looking at the pump it, there appears to have 2 castings, a front ( with the pulley attached to it ) and a rear. Is it just the front one that is commonly replaced or does it depend on which water pump you get ?

Any other tips before I replace it ? I know that the bolts are probably going to be a pain and liberal amounts of WD40 are recommended days/weeks before starting but what torque should they be re tightened to ? Sorry for all the questions

Oh, it's a 1990 S3.


Thanks in advance

Al

[spivvy]

one part is normally replaced just the impellor side with the new pump you get a new gasket
as to part no can't help there

[s3swiss]

not sure on part no - try Motor Factors like Partco - if it is the wrong one they should exchange it for you. Agree re WD40 on the bolts holding it in - tried undoing mine and broke 2! Very little force needed to shear off the head. When re-tightening, I'd do it in stages working around the pump to allow the gasket to compress. Once all tight (i'd not even use a torque wrench - just a short spanner or ratchet) - pressure up the system and look for leaks, tightening further any bolts near any leaks. All just my opinion and hope you have less trouble than I did!

[tvrgit]

Standard Granada 2.9 water pump - if the motor factor / supplier can't supply it from that description, go to another motor factor, the first one doesn't deserve your money.

The pump is one part - it bolts into the timing cover which is shaped to accept the impellor and water flow. Here is my (very clarty at the time!) engine with pump removed:



In my case, 2 of the bolt heads broke off. You can still get the pump off then remove the stumps with mole grips. As has been said, use plenty of penetrating oil (WD40 is good at many things but it's not the best penerating oil you can get).

Note that I was changing the exhaust manifolds at the same time - you don't have to remove the exhaust to get to the water pump!

Edited by tvrgit on Tuesday 19th December 15:12

[hargo]

Thanks for the responses.

I'll get a pump and have a go, what's the worst that could happen .......

Thanks for the pic, very useful. I take it you had the bonnet off but you don't 'have' to take it off to do the pump ?

Cheers

Al

[tvrgit]

Nope bonnet was still on throughout the exhaust and pump replacement - jack the front up and you can get the bonnet vertical - bags of room!

[F908 Tim]

No, just get the cars front wheels on a couple of blocks so it opens more fully and you have plenty of room. I think the torque for the waterpump bolts is pretty low and I just used a ratchet until they felt tight enough.About 10 newtons or summit...it's in the Haynes Granada manuel.

The other pully was to run kit we dont have on the S but still needs to be retained as a spacer.

[s2fan]

I don't know if you have found a replacement yet, but I got one about 6 months ago from TVRcarparts, and it did come with the gasket. I am not terribly technically minded but it was a fairly easy job to do.

[Sweet Thunder]

The pump on a S3 is standard 2.9 Granada or Sierra indeed. It is fixed with 11 bolts (one is hidden). according to the ford workshopmanual the torque setting is 7 - 10 Nm.

Cheers,

Ronald

[tvrgit]

s2fan said:

I don't know if you have found a replacement yet, but I got one about 6 months ago from TVRcarparts, and it did come with the gasket. I am not terribly technically minded but it was a fairly easy job to do.

Mine cost £20 on ebay. It's not a special tvr part.

[mike robo]

Express factors part no. FWP1404, cost £45+vat back in April 06