Weird problems..
Discussion
I'm running S brakes, they were rebuilt a while ago very well, once in a while I notice that the slotted nut (big one) shears the splitpin and unwinds. Taking it to bits reveals no snags with anything. I have rebuilt it again and used brute force to tighten the nut up and an old skewer as a splitpin. This is bodgery at its finest. I am curious which perfect bit to replace.
Also, when I whack it in reverse, something goes "clonk" what does a worn diff pin sound like?
and another thing.......I noticed earlier that something goes clunk at the back when I press the brake pedal. (bias valve?) (it's a mk1) also the rear left is locking under serious braking yet the shoes and bearing seems to be fine. Hmmmmmmmmmm
Any ideas?
Also, when I whack it in reverse, something goes "clonk" what does a worn diff pin sound like?
and another thing.......I noticed earlier that something goes clunk at the back when I press the brake pedal. (bias valve?) (it's a mk1) also the rear left is locking under serious braking yet the shoes and bearing seems to be fine. Hmmmmmmmmmm
Any ideas?
The front nut should be REALLY tight - like 150 ft/lbs+ if it's not it will undo, the other causes are as described or possibly a worn drive flange (allowing the shaft to 'wobble')
Apparently dodgy bearings can also sometimes cause it.
The above are more likely causes.
The rear - there is always a quiet 'click' as the pressure limiting valve operates, you should feel a gentle 'clunk' thro' the pedal as well.
The rear brakes - if the left locks there could be a problem with the right one!
Also left rears do tend to lock when you drive over the gravel at the side of the road!!
Does it have the correct wheel cylinders!
Apparently dodgy bearings can also sometimes cause it.
love machine said:
Also, when I whack it in reverse, something goes "clonk" what does a worn diff pin sound like?
Diff pin doesn't make a noise, well at least not this type of noise! You'll know when it breaks!!! The above are more likely causes.
The rear - there is always a quiet 'click' as the pressure limiting valve operates, you should feel a gentle 'clunk' thro' the pedal as well.
The rear brakes - if the left locks there could be a problem with the right one!
Also left rears do tend to lock when you drive over the gravel at the side of the road!!
Does it have the correct wheel cylinders!
love
it will be the lh hub nut thats unwinding because as the wheel turns the nut is trying to escape (why they never made l/h/t cv joints is beyond me)
if you tourqe the nut up to the correct tourqe and it still unwinds then either the bearing ot the hub is knackered. the hubs wear and streach slighty where the bearings fit, once the nut has come loose and let the bearing shuffle round, the chance is that the hub is u/s
at best case, fit a new conical washer (these wear and should be changed whenever apart) and retourqe the nut - this may fix it, if not id swop the bearing and the hub.
its an expensive fix, but we have learnt with racing that this is the pattern of events that leads to the nut unwinding - the first sign from in the car is the brake pedal going to the floor!
i also tourqe the nut up using a thick flat washer in place of the conical, then retouqe it with the conical in place, doing it this way nearly always ensures that the splitpin hole lines up - we also drill the cv's out and use far thicker splitpins, and jiggle them after every race to make sure there is no movement.
hope this helps
it will be the lh hub nut thats unwinding because as the wheel turns the nut is trying to escape (why they never made l/h/t cv joints is beyond me)
if you tourqe the nut up to the correct tourqe and it still unwinds then either the bearing ot the hub is knackered. the hubs wear and streach slighty where the bearings fit, once the nut has come loose and let the bearing shuffle round, the chance is that the hub is u/s
at best case, fit a new conical washer (these wear and should be changed whenever apart) and retourqe the nut - this may fix it, if not id swop the bearing and the hub.
its an expensive fix, but we have learnt with racing that this is the pattern of events that leads to the nut unwinding - the first sign from in the car is the brake pedal going to the floor!
i also tourqe the nut up using a thick flat washer in place of the conical, then retouqe it with the conical in place, doing it this way nearly always ensures that the splitpin hole lines up - we also drill the cv's out and use far thicker splitpins, and jiggle them after every race to make sure there is no movement.
hope this helps
Does that mean that when you swing on the wheel there is play like a worn bearing? One thing I did notice was that the CV shaft had a small amount of wear on it (very small) but enough for me to feel when I tweaked the wheel when it was jacked up. I'm just trying to visualise which bit wears. I'll have a look in the haynes manual........
Bugger.
Cheers, Stu
Bugger.
Cheers, Stu
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