Vandalised S2000 - help please
Discussion
Hi guys,
My Monza Red Pearlescent paint Honda S2000 was keyed all along the passenger side a couple of weeks ago by some b******. It was down to the primer and in some parts right down to the metal:
After much deliberation, and a couple of bodyshops who wouldn't guarantee a perfect match due to the pearlescent nature of the paint, I ended up taking to a highly recommended bodyshop. I was assured 100% that after they had finished I wouldn't be able to tell it had had a re-spray.
However, that hasn't been the case. The colour match is poor, and the re-sprayed area looks metallic, with excessive metallic fleck, which the rest of the car doesn't have. In the two photos below, you can see the car under the lights in my garage, the left panel is the re-sprayed front wing, and the right panel is the unsprayed bonnet:
This compares to the unpainted drivers side, which is a perfect colour match:
Also the photo below shows the metallic fleck, which shouldn't be there:
In normal daylight, the whole passenger side looks dull and "flat", compared to the original driver's side. As I'm sure you can imagine I'm not at all happy with the situation.
After discussion with the bodyshop, they have accepted that it isn't right. They have offered to get a paint expert involved to get a better colour match.
The questions for you experts here.
How close a colour match should be possible with the pearlescent paint?
Should there be need to blend around the paint?
The colour code is R-508P, but I know as it's a pearlescent paint and has a lighter colour underneath a darker colour to give the pearlescent look. Are there different colour codes for the different colours? Or does the above paint code explain it all?
I know everyone is changing/ has changed to water based paints, being a pearlescent, would it be better to try another type of paint? someone has mentioned that Xirallic paint is what Honda used for the more metallic/pearlescent paints.
Do I give them another chance? or take a refund and find someone else who has more experience with pearlescent paints to redo this? If so any recommendations (I live on the edge of NW London) but distance is not an issue, I want to get this sorted properly now.
Any help would be appreciated as I am lost as to what to do.
Thanks.
My Monza Red Pearlescent paint Honda S2000 was keyed all along the passenger side a couple of weeks ago by some b******. It was down to the primer and in some parts right down to the metal:
After much deliberation, and a couple of bodyshops who wouldn't guarantee a perfect match due to the pearlescent nature of the paint, I ended up taking to a highly recommended bodyshop. I was assured 100% that after they had finished I wouldn't be able to tell it had had a re-spray.
However, that hasn't been the case. The colour match is poor, and the re-sprayed area looks metallic, with excessive metallic fleck, which the rest of the car doesn't have. In the two photos below, you can see the car under the lights in my garage, the left panel is the re-sprayed front wing, and the right panel is the unsprayed bonnet:
This compares to the unpainted drivers side, which is a perfect colour match:
Also the photo below shows the metallic fleck, which shouldn't be there:
In normal daylight, the whole passenger side looks dull and "flat", compared to the original driver's side. As I'm sure you can imagine I'm not at all happy with the situation.
After discussion with the bodyshop, they have accepted that it isn't right. They have offered to get a paint expert involved to get a better colour match.
The questions for you experts here.
How close a colour match should be possible with the pearlescent paint?
Should there be need to blend around the paint?
The colour code is R-508P, but I know as it's a pearlescent paint and has a lighter colour underneath a darker colour to give the pearlescent look. Are there different colour codes for the different colours? Or does the above paint code explain it all?
I know everyone is changing/ has changed to water based paints, being a pearlescent, would it be better to try another type of paint? someone has mentioned that Xirallic paint is what Honda used for the more metallic/pearlescent paints.
Do I give them another chance? or take a refund and find someone else who has more experience with pearlescent paints to redo this? If so any recommendations (I live on the edge of NW London) but distance is not an issue, I want to get this sorted properly now.
Any help would be appreciated as I am lost as to what to do.
Thanks.
Edited by sarren on Thursday 16th November 06:58
Hi Sarren,
Commiserations. Your questions:
>How close a colour match should be possible with the pearlescent paint?
You need to be aware that colour is NOT objective. Have a read of the Wikipedia entries on "metamerism", "color vision"/"colour perception". The bodyshop were either misleading (in an attempt to secure your business) or ignorant when they promised you a 100% undetectable repair. The only way to get an 'as new' finish is to buy new.
For the metamerism reasons, in the articles above, the repair might look fine a) in the light it was assessed in after repair (although a well-equipped repairer will check it under lots of different visible-light wavelengths) or b) to the individual who repaired it due to differing colour perceptions.
Bottom line, a repair that is satisfactory to all but the most obsessive-compulsive customer should be possible, but how this is achieved could vary.
>Should there be need to blend around the paint?
Yes. With any paint with flake or pearl in it, blending will be necessary as patch painting shows up the spray pattern through the distribution of the particles. With a very precise colour match, blending into other panels could be unnecessary though.
>The colour code is R-508P, but I know as it's a pearlescent paint and has a lighter colour underneath a darker colour to give the pearlescent look. Are there different colour codes for the different colours? Or does the above paint code explain it all?
The above code identifies the manufacturer's finish. Depending on which system(s) of paint mixing your bodyshop use, that would then provide them with recipe(s) for replicating the finish. Systems for mixing paint to try to match an original automotive factory finish are provided by lots of different paint manufacturers, such as PPG, Dupont, Lechler, etc etc. They each use a different set of basic tints that are then combined to approximate the factory finish.
The recipes from the different system providers vary in their ability to replicate different original colours. For example, Dupont is excellent at matching cars on the modern Lotus range, because the factory at Hethel uses the Dupont Cromax mixing system to paint them in the first place, and PPG do very well with (IIRC) Fiat, for the same reason. Most bodyshops will have access to at the most two mixing schemes. They can only do as well with colour match as the supplier of their paint.
The usual response with full spray facilities to having access to an iffy match is to paint wide. This is already a 3 panel repair - so the only real option to move it further is blending - which is a nightmare with this finish - see below for why.
>I know everyone is changing/ has changed to water based paints, being a pearlescent, would it be better to try another type of paint? someone has mentioned that Xirallic paint is what Honda used for the more metallic/pearlescent paints.
No. Waterborne vs solventborne is simply a method of delivery of the paint to the panel. (edited to add) Unless a particular mixing system is a better match than what you've got, and is solventborne not waterborne, or vice versa, there's no need to swap between delivery systems. The demonisation of waterborne technology is generally due to fear of change in the finishing industry and environmental indolence rather than genuine durability or finish problems. 'Xirallic' describes a type of pigment used to create certain special effect finishes. It's not a delivery system - it's a new type of flake.
It is a common misconception that going back to the manufacturer will somehow ensure a perfect match. This is simply not true. Even if the manufacturer still has stocks of the batch of paint used to paint the car at the factory (unlikely), there are too many other factors that affect the perceived finish that simply cannot be replicated. The factory painting is (usually) done by robot sprayguns that can deliver an extremely precise film build, far beyond human capability to reproduce with the same accuracy. Shop conditions such as nozzle/needle size, air pressure, humidity and temperature, even the electrostatic conditions all affect how modern finishes look when applied.
Repairs are always hand-sprayed, so they are always subject to human skill and the available spray conditions, which will be different to the factory.
>Do I give them another chance? or take a refund and find someone else who has more experience with pearlescent paints to redo this? If so any recommendations (I live on the edge of NW London) but distance is not an issue, I want to get this sorted properly now.
OK, now Monza Red is awkward - it's one of a few paints where (with the mixing systems I know) it's refinished with a flat basecoat and then a translucent topcoat containing tint and pearl is sprayed over the top before clearcoating. As the topcoat adds tint, the amount of it that is sprayed on changes the look. Too much and the finish will have more pearl sparkle than the original, and maybe also be too purply. Too little, and it won't have enough. And assessing the final colour can be impossible until after it has been clearcoated and polished, by which stage it's too late to tweak the amount.
So more than other colours, this is subject to the human factor in repairs.
In addition, because the topcoat and basecoat must work in tandem, blending becomes much more difficult. With most colours, you can blend out a poor match with a progressively lighter spray. As the basecoat is very opaque, and the topcoat barely there, achieving a blend by flicking them out is extremely tough. Given that you've got damage across the whole side, and blending is so tough with this type of paint, 'going wide to hide it' is going to be very difficult without turning in to a total respray.
The shop promised you an undetectable repair. This was foolish, but contractually binding. If they're good at what they do, they can improve on the finish. It might involve trying different paint mixing systems for a better match (I'm certainly surprised to read that there's a metallic look to your repair, on what should be a pure pearl finish), possibly a full respray, or something completely different.
>Any help would be appreciated as I am lost as to what to do.
Again, sympathy for your situation. It's a bad combination of already-large high-profile repair and nightmare colour code. You shouldn't have been promised perfection - in repairs it strictly doesn't exist. All the factors that have hampered this repair (with the possible exception of paint mixing supplier poor match) will be present in any other shop you go to.
The shop have accepted the finish isn't satisfactory, which is really good news. They haven't told you to sod off and relied on a 'best approximate' or 'best efforts' clause in their Terms and Conditions. If you trust the people you're talking to, I'd say work with them, get everything explained in layman's terms, and resign yourself to the fact that their marketing promises can't be 100% lived up to. If you're not happy with the gloss of the repair, make sure that they sort that when they sort the colour issues - there's no real excuse for that.
HTH
Tol
Commiserations. Your questions:
>How close a colour match should be possible with the pearlescent paint?
You need to be aware that colour is NOT objective. Have a read of the Wikipedia entries on "metamerism", "color vision"/"colour perception". The bodyshop were either misleading (in an attempt to secure your business) or ignorant when they promised you a 100% undetectable repair. The only way to get an 'as new' finish is to buy new.
For the metamerism reasons, in the articles above, the repair might look fine a) in the light it was assessed in after repair (although a well-equipped repairer will check it under lots of different visible-light wavelengths) or b) to the individual who repaired it due to differing colour perceptions.
Bottom line, a repair that is satisfactory to all but the most obsessive-compulsive customer should be possible, but how this is achieved could vary.
>Should there be need to blend around the paint?
Yes. With any paint with flake or pearl in it, blending will be necessary as patch painting shows up the spray pattern through the distribution of the particles. With a very precise colour match, blending into other panels could be unnecessary though.
>The colour code is R-508P, but I know as it's a pearlescent paint and has a lighter colour underneath a darker colour to give the pearlescent look. Are there different colour codes for the different colours? Or does the above paint code explain it all?
The above code identifies the manufacturer's finish. Depending on which system(s) of paint mixing your bodyshop use, that would then provide them with recipe(s) for replicating the finish. Systems for mixing paint to try to match an original automotive factory finish are provided by lots of different paint manufacturers, such as PPG, Dupont, Lechler, etc etc. They each use a different set of basic tints that are then combined to approximate the factory finish.
The recipes from the different system providers vary in their ability to replicate different original colours. For example, Dupont is excellent at matching cars on the modern Lotus range, because the factory at Hethel uses the Dupont Cromax mixing system to paint them in the first place, and PPG do very well with (IIRC) Fiat, for the same reason. Most bodyshops will have access to at the most two mixing schemes. They can only do as well with colour match as the supplier of their paint.
The usual response with full spray facilities to having access to an iffy match is to paint wide. This is already a 3 panel repair - so the only real option to move it further is blending - which is a nightmare with this finish - see below for why.
>I know everyone is changing/ has changed to water based paints, being a pearlescent, would it be better to try another type of paint? someone has mentioned that Xirallic paint is what Honda used for the more metallic/pearlescent paints.
No. Waterborne vs solventborne is simply a method of delivery of the paint to the panel. (edited to add) Unless a particular mixing system is a better match than what you've got, and is solventborne not waterborne, or vice versa, there's no need to swap between delivery systems. The demonisation of waterborne technology is generally due to fear of change in the finishing industry and environmental indolence rather than genuine durability or finish problems. 'Xirallic' describes a type of pigment used to create certain special effect finishes. It's not a delivery system - it's a new type of flake.
It is a common misconception that going back to the manufacturer will somehow ensure a perfect match. This is simply not true. Even if the manufacturer still has stocks of the batch of paint used to paint the car at the factory (unlikely), there are too many other factors that affect the perceived finish that simply cannot be replicated. The factory painting is (usually) done by robot sprayguns that can deliver an extremely precise film build, far beyond human capability to reproduce with the same accuracy. Shop conditions such as nozzle/needle size, air pressure, humidity and temperature, even the electrostatic conditions all affect how modern finishes look when applied.
Repairs are always hand-sprayed, so they are always subject to human skill and the available spray conditions, which will be different to the factory.
>Do I give them another chance? or take a refund and find someone else who has more experience with pearlescent paints to redo this? If so any recommendations (I live on the edge of NW London) but distance is not an issue, I want to get this sorted properly now.
OK, now Monza Red is awkward - it's one of a few paints where (with the mixing systems I know) it's refinished with a flat basecoat and then a translucent topcoat containing tint and pearl is sprayed over the top before clearcoating. As the topcoat adds tint, the amount of it that is sprayed on changes the look. Too much and the finish will have more pearl sparkle than the original, and maybe also be too purply. Too little, and it won't have enough. And assessing the final colour can be impossible until after it has been clearcoated and polished, by which stage it's too late to tweak the amount.
So more than other colours, this is subject to the human factor in repairs.
In addition, because the topcoat and basecoat must work in tandem, blending becomes much more difficult. With most colours, you can blend out a poor match with a progressively lighter spray. As the basecoat is very opaque, and the topcoat barely there, achieving a blend by flicking them out is extremely tough. Given that you've got damage across the whole side, and blending is so tough with this type of paint, 'going wide to hide it' is going to be very difficult without turning in to a total respray.
The shop promised you an undetectable repair. This was foolish, but contractually binding. If they're good at what they do, they can improve on the finish. It might involve trying different paint mixing systems for a better match (I'm certainly surprised to read that there's a metallic look to your repair, on what should be a pure pearl finish), possibly a full respray, or something completely different.
>Any help would be appreciated as I am lost as to what to do.
Again, sympathy for your situation. It's a bad combination of already-large high-profile repair and nightmare colour code. You shouldn't have been promised perfection - in repairs it strictly doesn't exist. All the factors that have hampered this repair (with the possible exception of paint mixing supplier poor match) will be present in any other shop you go to.
The shop have accepted the finish isn't satisfactory, which is really good news. They haven't told you to sod off and relied on a 'best approximate' or 'best efforts' clause in their Terms and Conditions. If you trust the people you're talking to, I'd say work with them, get everything explained in layman's terms, and resign yourself to the fact that their marketing promises can't be 100% lived up to. If you're not happy with the gloss of the repair, make sure that they sort that when they sort the colour issues - there's no real excuse for that.
HTH
Tol
Edited by Anatol on Thursday 16th November 09:06
Thanks Tol for you thorough and informative post.
I've learnt a lot about the Monza Red paint now. Essentially I won't be able to get a perfect result, but as you say I even though I am anal about most things with my car, I should be able to get a repair that is satisfactory to most people, which is what I want.
I am waiting for their paint expert to assist them in getting a better respray sorted out for me. Hopefully in the next week or so I can take it back there, and get an acceptable result.
Thanks again for all your information.
I've learnt a lot about the Monza Red paint now. Essentially I won't be able to get a perfect result, but as you say I even though I am anal about most things with my car, I should be able to get a repair that is satisfactory to most people, which is what I want.
I am waiting for their paint expert to assist them in getting a better respray sorted out for me. Hopefully in the next week or so I can take it back there, and get an acceptable result.
Thanks again for all your information.
If I remember correctly theres a yellow pearl paint on some MX5's thats a royal pain to get right. Eventually the best option was to respray the all the panels so it was all the same... (plus after a few attempts it's probably cheaper for the bodyshop to make it all the same rather than try to match.)
Sarren, I really feel for you here. We ended up in a similar situation with a Sunspot Yellow MGTF earlier this year. Somebody reversed into the front of it. Front Bumper and Bonnet only were damaged. I was really nervous regarding where to send the car and spent hours on the phone trying to find someone highly recommended. It was a struggle but I made a decision and waited for the car to be repaired.
On first inspection in bright sunlight the car looked excellent. However, when it was cloudy which is 80% of the time up north it looked much duller than the rest of the car. I tried to get it put right to no avail. In the end we part exchanged the car. It drove me crazy though............
Good Luck with Yours
On first inspection in bright sunlight the car looked excellent. However, when it was cloudy which is 80% of the time up north it looked much duller than the rest of the car. I tried to get it put right to no avail. In the end we part exchanged the car. It drove me crazy though............
Good Luck with Yours
Mr Magoo, I'm waiting to see how it looks after the second go at the respray, but I have to say I'm not sure how well it will turn out. I think I have a similar situation to what you had. The car is not shiny and bright on the resprayed side, but dull. I can see my reflection perfectly on the drivers side, but only see a fuzzy outline on the passenger side.
I hope it will be better in a week or so, when it is redone
I hope I don't have to get to your situation and have to sell, but it has driven me crazy so far.
I hope it will be better in a week or so, when it is redone
I hope I don't have to get to your situation and have to sell, but it has driven me crazy so far.
Edited by Sarren on Saturday 25th November 19:42
Ohhh nasty
Thats a bad repair... hope you manage to get it sorted a bit nicer than that!
My motto is, buy flat black
Metallic and pearl = upset when the worst happens and it will NEVER look right again.
I don't think you have to be obsessive compulsive to spot errors on even a good repair. Metallic flake density is one of those things that just stands out like a sore thumb, then you have the shade and laquer thickness... spoke to lots of places wrt to a damaged wing and bonnet on my previous car being resprayed and ended up sourcing panels from another car the same age/mileage and colour to get anywhere near a satisfactory match
Dave
Thats a bad repair... hope you manage to get it sorted a bit nicer than that!
My motto is, buy flat black
Metallic and pearl = upset when the worst happens and it will NEVER look right again.
I don't think you have to be obsessive compulsive to spot errors on even a good repair. Metallic flake density is one of those things that just stands out like a sore thumb, then you have the shade and laquer thickness... spoke to lots of places wrt to a damaged wing and bonnet on my previous car being resprayed and ended up sourcing panels from another car the same age/mileage and colour to get anywhere near a satisfactory match
Dave
I must admit I would have been scared off the body shop by the comment we can get it identical, they are either liar's or incompetent as no one not even the Honda factory could get it identical, but what's done is done, the bodyshop on the positive side have agreed to put it right which is good, they will be better off in the long run painting the entire car, but before they do they need to get the finish right as that repair work isn't just the light catching it differently its a different finish.
The bodyshop came highly recommended by a couple of people. I now know not to trust anyone but close people I know very well
Anyway the update:
I'm not the happiest person at the moment, as the bodyshop have had the car for 4 weeks now and not a lot has happened. It took a week for the "paint expert" to come and look at the car. I was informed that my Monza Red is lighter than Honda have specified How? I have no idea, esp as my car is just over 20 months old and always garaged, I can't see how it would have changed much in colour. Anyway, it then took another week to get the rear spoiler back, as the paint manufacturers wanted to analyse that to make up a new paint (well that's what I've been led to believe). Since then I've just been waiting.
I have had to do all the chasing. I'm calling them at least once a week, and always get given a different excuse. I'm losing all patience with them. I was informed last week that they would have the test card ready this week for me to see, to see if I was happy with the colour match this time.
Anyway I'm now been assured that the test card will be ready for me to see on Tuesday.
I've been patient with them, but if it isn't ready by Tuesday then all hell will break loose
So, in all of a month, not a lot has happened except me being without my S!
You can understand why I don't want them to blend into more panels with their initial finish not being anywhere near right! If they don't get a good finish this time, what do I do? If I go elsewhere, how do I know they will do a better job? This whole episode has driven me crazy!!!
Anyway the update:
I'm not the happiest person at the moment, as the bodyshop have had the car for 4 weeks now and not a lot has happened. It took a week for the "paint expert" to come and look at the car. I was informed that my Monza Red is lighter than Honda have specified How? I have no idea, esp as my car is just over 20 months old and always garaged, I can't see how it would have changed much in colour. Anyway, it then took another week to get the rear spoiler back, as the paint manufacturers wanted to analyse that to make up a new paint (well that's what I've been led to believe). Since then I've just been waiting.
I have had to do all the chasing. I'm calling them at least once a week, and always get given a different excuse. I'm losing all patience with them. I was informed last week that they would have the test card ready this week for me to see, to see if I was happy with the colour match this time.
Anyway I'm now been assured that the test card will be ready for me to see on Tuesday.
I've been patient with them, but if it isn't ready by Tuesday then all hell will break loose
So, in all of a month, not a lot has happened except me being without my S!
You can understand why I don't want them to blend into more panels with their initial finish not being anywhere near right! If they don't get a good finish this time, what do I do? If I go elsewhere, how do I know they will do a better job? This whole episode has driven me crazy!!!
Edited by Sarren on Thursday 28th December 19:59
Edited by sarren on Friday 29th December 12:28
It's not so much the paint, it's the application. Of course getting the code right is important, but the difference they are seeing is likely in application.
After much research and reading and question asking for my own spraying and getting the finish I need, I've come to realise that application is where the appearance is made.
Temps, how long you leave till you dust a metallic, how much you dust, base coat colour and application, all kinds of things. I still know nothing about pearls (mainly reading pure metallic) but they are another world again... you could spray a car with the doors off one day, then the next a different guy using the SAME paint might do the doors, and when they are hung they could look different because he left it 5mins more before dusting, or added another 10% volume to the base when doing the pearl (no idea how you do pearls properly
)
Ultimately they will NEVER match it, you'll spend £££ on it and never be happy with it, and hate the car because of it
If I were really really really you, while your at it, I'd be tempted to get it done in a nice flat black (find a common black, say a Ford or BMW item which will be around for ages) with a clear over the top. Easy to match next time some tw4t keys it, cheaper and it looks good too...
As to what you should do with the place your at now, well...
...if they were pushing forward and being pro-active I'd be more enthusiastic, but they appear to have unloaded ownership of the issue to a paint supplier, which ultimately might not even be the problem!
I'd be in a position of looking elsewhere and being prepared to work out what to do to get out of paying for their current work (sale of goods/services? unsatisfactory work etc), and sorting the problem at a more rigourously chosen painter (ie, go see their work on similar paint type and colour cars, only go ahead if you are 100% happy that they can and will do the job to your desired standards (if they don't, keep looking) and realise it will need blending even with the best match to be invisible, and also that you will pay for the priveledge for someone to do a proper job (sad but true))
Dave
After much research and reading and question asking for my own spraying and getting the finish I need, I've come to realise that application is where the appearance is made.
Temps, how long you leave till you dust a metallic, how much you dust, base coat colour and application, all kinds of things. I still know nothing about pearls (mainly reading pure metallic) but they are another world again... you could spray a car with the doors off one day, then the next a different guy using the SAME paint might do the doors, and when they are hung they could look different because he left it 5mins more before dusting, or added another 10% volume to the base when doing the pearl (no idea how you do pearls properly
) Ultimately they will NEVER match it, you'll spend £££ on it and never be happy with it, and hate the car because of it
If I were really really really you, while your at it, I'd be tempted to get it done in a nice flat black (find a common black, say a Ford or BMW item which will be around for ages) with a clear over the top. Easy to match next time some tw4t keys it, cheaper and it looks good too...
As to what you should do with the place your at now, well...
...if they were pushing forward and being pro-active I'd be more enthusiastic, but they appear to have unloaded ownership of the issue to a paint supplier, which ultimately might not even be the problem!
I'd be in a position of looking elsewhere and being prepared to work out what to do to get out of paying for their current work (sale of goods/services? unsatisfactory work etc), and sorting the problem at a more rigourously chosen painter (ie, go see their work on similar paint type and colour cars, only go ahead if you are 100% happy that they can and will do the job to your desired standards (if they don't, keep looking) and realise it will need blending even with the best match to be invisible, and also that you will pay for the priveledge for someone to do a proper job (sad but true))
Dave
Edited by Mr Whippy on Friday 29th December 04:21
I've painted lots of 2 & 3 stage pearls in the past & agree with the above of blending all adjacent panel, but the paint mix has to be spot on, no point blending the paint if it is mixed up wrong.
Even having the same paint mix & but changing the spray gun pressure will change how the mica pearl lays down or stands on the panel.
To make some spray out cards say three or four should take no longer than an hour or so.
Some time you will only get two or three formulations & they won't match what is on the car so you have to tint the closest you have by eye.
Hope you get it sorted.
Dave Mak. www.daytonacoachworx.co.uk
Even having the same paint mix & but changing the spray gun pressure will change how the mica pearl lays down or stands on the panel.
To make some spray out cards say three or four should take no longer than an hour or so.
Some time you will only get two or three formulations & they won't match what is on the car so you have to tint the closest you have by eye.
Hope you get it sorted.
Dave Mak. www.daytonacoachworx.co.uk
OK everyone, time for a final update to my story.
I picked the car up again from the bodyshop on Sunday.
I had expected to get there and be disappointed again, but no, I was amazed.
After reading all the replies to my thread on here, and all the doom and gloom about a perfect match being nearly impossible to obtain with the pearlescent colour of my car, I was definitely amazed.
As you know, the paint manufacturers had taken my rear spoiler away, and made up a custom paint for my car after analysing it. This should give a perfect match to the rest of my car.
Well I'm delighted to say the respray has been amazing. All 3 panels have been done, with the paint being feathered out at the front and rear. They did use a Xirallic paint on this second respray and the bright, shiny pearlescent finish is perfect.
To be honest, I can't even tell it's now had a respray so I'm over the moon
I can now go back to enjoying the car and not worrying about the damage.
I have learnt a lesson here, if I ever have any problems with one of my cars ever again, and it's a specialist paint, I'll definitely ask the repairers to ask their paint manufacturers to make up a paint specifically for my car. Fingers crossed I never have to go down that route ever again.
It's taken longer than I wanted, but in the end, it's been worthwhile.
Thanks to Phil at Bodymaster (Watford) who has done what he said he would do when I dropped my car off the first time. And to his paint sprayer, Jason.
If anyone lives near Watford and they need work doing, I'd recommend them as the quality in the end, has been fantastic
I picked the car up again from the bodyshop on Sunday.
I had expected to get there and be disappointed again, but no, I was amazed.
After reading all the replies to my thread on here, and all the doom and gloom about a perfect match being nearly impossible to obtain with the pearlescent colour of my car, I was definitely amazed.
As you know, the paint manufacturers had taken my rear spoiler away, and made up a custom paint for my car after analysing it. This should give a perfect match to the rest of my car.
Well I'm delighted to say the respray has been amazing. All 3 panels have been done, with the paint being feathered out at the front and rear. They did use a Xirallic paint on this second respray and the bright, shiny pearlescent finish is perfect.
To be honest, I can't even tell it's now had a respray so I'm over the moon
I can now go back to enjoying the car and not worrying about the damage.
I have learnt a lesson here, if I ever have any problems with one of my cars ever again, and it's a specialist paint, I'll definitely ask the repairers to ask their paint manufacturers to make up a paint specifically for my car. Fingers crossed I never have to go down that route ever again.
It's taken longer than I wanted, but in the end, it's been worthwhile.
Thanks to Phil at Bodymaster (Watford) who has done what he said he would do when I dropped my car off the first time. And to his paint sprayer, Jason.
If anyone lives near Watford and they need work doing, I'd recommend them as the quality in the end, has been fantastic
Congrats mate... glad they did all three panels in the end, it will really help it blend over time.
Just another story, but my old Sierra 4x4 was a similar type of colour to that but bluey purple, and a sheep got in the way at high speed under a previous owner and lots of panels were re-done. It looked great, but 5 years later it started to look silly because the whole sides were not done and the new bits still looked good, but the old stuff was now starting to fade!
Always best to get the colour close and the coverage as large as possible and thats what they've done! Hats off to the bodyshop for pulling their fingers out and sorting it properly!
Dave
Just another story, but my old Sierra 4x4 was a similar type of colour to that but bluey purple, and a sheep got in the way at high speed under a previous owner and lots of panels were re-done. It looked great, but 5 years later it started to look silly because the whole sides were not done and the new bits still looked good, but the old stuff was now starting to fade!
Always best to get the colour close and the coverage as large as possible and thats what they've done! Hats off to the bodyshop for pulling their fingers out and sorting it properly!
Dave
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