Urgent jacking advice

[mr noble]

Just about to jack the car up and put it on 4 axel stands, but I'm not 100% that I've got them in the correct places.


Rear 2 are just infront and inside of the rear wheels, when all the screws meet up. I know the correct spot is where the little rubber bungs are but they seem a bit too far forward.


Front ones I have put in front of the front wheels along the rail which the triangular bars jut from. Again, the bung points seemed too far back for a week in the air.

Also, is it safe for the chassis to have the rear jacked up and on stands and to then jack one side of the front? Will that not twist the chassis?


A super fast response would be great as I need to get the tyres removed and get the rims to the refurb dude today.

Thanks
Greg

[obes]

Drive the car onto onto blocks first if you can to give yourself space to work with the jack. Lift it with your jack in the middle under the engine mount. You can see underneath where the diffuser ends and the undertray begins. Put a block of wood on each axle stand and then put them under the jacking points. You should then be able to get the jack allthe way under the car to the front and jack it up on the cross piece. Again you can see where it is from the lines of screws on the trays. Always best not to corner lift it if you can avoid it.

Edited by obes on Monday 6th November 16:00

[mr noble]

Got it. The photo really helps.

Problem was that with the rear up and done, I couldn't get the jack in from the front so had to lift one side which actually took both sides up.

Its now in the garage and very unlikely to get knicked!!


Wheels are going off the a chap who thinks he has a method of doing Noble wheels. I'll be writing a full report on his work!

Greg

[Vesuvius 996]

[M400UK]

My wheels are painted in anthracite, and if your refurb guy takes the plastic studs out of your wheels when refurbing them, they will have to be replaced you can't remove them without damaging them. I had to drill all mine out and then get them out with a screwdriver. I can guarantee you wont be getting a replacement set in <4 months. I know because its been that long and I'm still waiting. The only other way is to mask them up, but then you'll get a nasty edge which will cause the paint to peel off if you use a pressure wash or cause water to get under the lacquer and cause it to peel off.

[JLSELAN]

And you think you have problems jacking up the car--this happened to a "pro" in the U.S. trying to service an Elise

Edited by JLSELAN on Tuesday 7th November 02:25

[AMG Merc]

M400UK said:

My wheels are painted in anthracite, and if your refurb guy takes the plastic studs out of your wheels when refurbing them, they will have to be replaced you can't remove them without damaging them. I had to drill all mine out and then get them out with a screwdriver. I can guarantee you wont be getting a replacement set in <4 months. I know because its been that long and I'm still waiting. The only other way is to mask them up, but then you'll get a nasty edge which will cause the paint to peel off if you use a pressure wash or cause water to get under the lacquer and cause it to peel off.

Ranj, I agree with you having done a fair bit of research on this subject. Greg has explained this to the wheel man and he says he can deal with it using a different finishing technique that keeps the plastic bolts in situ (Greg will be along to explain). Me, I have a different plan and will report when finished

[mr noble]

Yup, this guy has just spent rather a lot of cash on a UV laquer machine. Its usually used in medical and precision engineering methods, but allows the wheels to be fully refurbed and set as strong as baking (if not harder) but with very little heat, meaning that the bolts are not going to melt.

I am being the gunniea pig for this guy (Anatol on PH) and will report back the findings in a week or 2.


Greg

[pbsaxman]

mr noble said:

Yup, this guy has just spent rather a lot of cash on a UV laquer machine. Its usually used in medical and precision engineering methods, but allows the wheels to be fully refurbed and set as strong as baking (if not harder) but with very little heat, meaning that the bolts are not going to melt.

I am being the gunniea pig for this guy (Anatol on PH) and will report back the findings in a week or 2.


Greg

Sounds promising, would be great if it works!!

[wizz72]

obes said:

Drive the car onto onto blocks first if you can to give yourself space to work with the jack. Lift it with your jack in the middle under the engine mount. You can see underneath where the diffuser ends and the undertray begins. Put a block of wood on each axle stand and then put them under the jacking points. You should then be able to get the jack allthe way under the car to the front and jack it up on the cross piece. Again you can see where it is from the lines of screws on the trays. Always best not to corner lift it if you can avoid it.

Edited by obes on Monday 6th November 16:00

Blimey Owen , that looks like a lot of hassle just to find those Euros that you dropped in Le Mans !