Too hot for comfort...
Discussion
My new V6 is still running too hot despite the colder air temperature, and I have a 350 mile round trip to make on Thursday... Not comfortable.
It's done over 1000 miles now and is not so tight as it was.Flushed out the rad and heater at weekend and all were clean, no blockages,airlocks or restrictions evident.
Pressure on hoses is less than it was when it was first installed but it still runs for only 20 miles or so before the fan kicks in,usually in the first bit of traffic, and stays on until I turn off the engine, regardless how long the journey. ie.It seems to be trying to restore temperature to cooler than it records it is, but can't achieve it.
Manifolds wrapped, fan blowing inwards, front air intakes unrestricted, radiator even temperature throughout, not loosing water, correct pressure cap, new thermostat, new pump, engine running fine at all speeds and easy to start hot or cold.
Any ideas guys?
Change the thermostat again? (can't see it's not working if I can go 20 miles before getting to hot)
Research a colder operating spark plug? (Should not be necessary I would have thought)
Just can't get my head around what else to try.
It's done over 1000 miles now and is not so tight as it was.Flushed out the rad and heater at weekend and all were clean, no blockages,airlocks or restrictions evident.
Pressure on hoses is less than it was when it was first installed but it still runs for only 20 miles or so before the fan kicks in,usually in the first bit of traffic, and stays on until I turn off the engine, regardless how long the journey. ie.It seems to be trying to restore temperature to cooler than it records it is, but can't achieve it.
Manifolds wrapped, fan blowing inwards, front air intakes unrestricted, radiator even temperature throughout, not loosing water, correct pressure cap, new thermostat, new pump, engine running fine at all speeds and easy to start hot or cold.
Any ideas guys?
Change the thermostat again? (can't see it's not working if I can go 20 miles before getting to hot)
Research a colder operating spark plug? (Should not be necessary I would have thought)
Just can't get my head around what else to try.
Hi Tim
Not quite clear what the problem is - is the engine temperature too high or not? Or is the problem that the fan never goes off once it comes on?
When the fan kicks in does the termperature go down or not?
I had to replace the otter (fan) switch recently but the new I bought was faulty and the fan came on at about 70 and would never go off. Another new otter switch fixed the problem.
Colin
Not quite clear what the problem is - is the engine temperature too high or not? Or is the problem that the fan never goes off once it comes on?
When the fan kicks in does the termperature go down or not?
I had to replace the otter (fan) switch recently but the new I bought was faulty and the fan came on at about 70 and would never go off. Another new otter switch fixed the problem.
Colin
Have you ensured the cooling system is properly filled with coolant. If not, you will have an air pocket which will cause it to run hot/not cool correctly. Always fill from the top radiator hose connection.
Just a thought.
Even though the standard cooling system is not particularly good, it should be ok this time of year.
Just a thought.
Even though the standard cooling system is not particularly good, it should be ok this time of year.
Tim
May be the thermostat.
I've replaced my 2.8 this summer. The old thermostat was bust so I replaced it with a 'normal' one that comes in at higher temperature. The cooling works fine (maybe the fan is on a bit more often than before), but 'normal' temp reads a bit higher on the gauge.
cheers
Niels
May be the thermostat.
I've replaced my 2.8 this summer. The old thermostat was bust so I replaced it with a 'normal' one that comes in at higher temperature. The cooling works fine (maybe the fan is on a bit more often than before), but 'normal' temp reads a bit higher on the gauge.
cheers
Niels
Hi Guys. Thanks for your posts.
I am sure the system is full of water with no air locks,(As sure as you can be without a pet tadpole) though a bleed valve on my top hose which is the highest point would not go amiss!
Car jacked up high at front when filled and run with caps off before taking out for a run and refilled/bled on return.(No significant drop in level when cooled and all hoses same temperature throughout... and no level drop since)
The temp rises from cold without any interuption until it gets to normal temp.(90 degrees)
Then it slowly continues to climb until the fan kicks it at 92 degrees.(measured by my garage, about 95 on my temp gauge)
The fan stays on and just about inhibits further rises in temperature according to the gauge, but does not cool the system down at all to allow the fan to cut out again, so it just runs and runs until you turn off the ignition.
The otter switch seems to work at correct setting judging by my garages tests and was fine controlling former engine. Not damaged or knocked on installation of new block.
(Colin...where did you get your replacement please? Might try it.
The stat clicks when the system is cold and you squeeze the hoses.(By pass valve free) It is new from Fords and I have to assume is working as I can't see why it would control the temp for the first twenty miles or so if not. Mind you, the temp rise from cold does not get interupted as it opens according to the guage. Do others drop back a bit to indicate it's operation whilst engine is warming up? Think my old one did on the old engine IIRC.
Ideas?
I am sure the system is full of water with no air locks,(As sure as you can be without a pet tadpole) though a bleed valve on my top hose which is the highest point would not go amiss!
Car jacked up high at front when filled and run with caps off before taking out for a run and refilled/bled on return.(No significant drop in level when cooled and all hoses same temperature throughout... and no level drop since)
The temp rises from cold without any interuption until it gets to normal temp.(90 degrees)
Then it slowly continues to climb until the fan kicks it at 92 degrees.(measured by my garage, about 95 on my temp gauge)
The fan stays on and just about inhibits further rises in temperature according to the gauge, but does not cool the system down at all to allow the fan to cut out again, so it just runs and runs until you turn off the ignition.
The otter switch seems to work at correct setting judging by my garages tests and was fine controlling former engine. Not damaged or knocked on installation of new block.
(Colin...where did you get your replacement please? Might try it.
The stat clicks when the system is cold and you squeeze the hoses.(By pass valve free) It is new from Fords and I have to assume is working as I can't see why it would control the temp for the first twenty miles or so if not. Mind you, the temp rise from cold does not get interupted as it opens according to the guage. Do others drop back a bit to indicate it's operation whilst engine is warming up? Think my old one did on the old engine IIRC.
Ideas?
There is hysterisis on the otter switch. Approx 3-5° difference between ON and OFF. ie just enough to see the guage dip.
I assume the temp guage just sits at 90+ all the time the fan is running?
If the guage just sits at 90+ and fan doesnt cut then both engine and radiator return are at the same temperature...
Often if there is a significant airlock then thats when you get the coolant peeing out the overflow after stopping.
If you are sure that there are no airlocks how about an emissions test to see what the mixture is like?
I assume the temp guage just sits at 90+ all the time the fan is running?
If the guage just sits at 90+ and fan doesnt cut then both engine and radiator return are at the same temperature...
Often if there is a significant airlock then thats when you get the coolant peeing out the overflow after stopping.
If you are sure that there are no airlocks how about an emissions test to see what the mixture is like?
Hi Tim
YHM on where I got the switch from and also some thoughts about maybe changing the fan.
It sounds like your engine is either generating too much heat or the cooling system isn't efficient enough to reduce the heat you are producing; rather than the fan switch.
You said the rad was flushed and there are no blockages but you can't tell if the rad has any blockages simply by running water through it. There are so many routes through the rad that half of it could be blocked but water will still flow through from the inlet to the outlet. How old is the radiator, it might need a recore.
You say the temperature is even over the whole radiator which seems to indicate that it has water flowing through all of it. But it might be worth taking the rad out completely and having a good look over it to check that you've not got any damage to the cooling fins which will reduce the efficiency.
Which side is the fan on? In front of the rad (i.e. the radiator sits between the fan and the engine) or behind the radiator (i.e. the fan sits between the radiator and the engine)? I'm of the the opinion that it is better to have the fan between the radiator and the engine (i.e. pulling air through the radiator rather than trying to push it through). My S had the fan engine side of the rad and I think that is the standard arrangement ('standard' in the TVR meaning of the word
)
Another thing to check is the power feed for the fan, might be worth running a voltmeter over the various points and checking there's not a bad connection that is reducing the voltage to the fan.
Might be worth getting the gases and timing checked just in case it's running out of tune.
One trick I've used to ensure there are no air locks at the top hose on the rad is to just loosen the jubille clip slightly on the rad connection at the top when the system is warm (i.e. has a little bit of pressure). The pressure should force any air trapped at the top of the rad out through this. Just tighten it up again when water starts to drip out.
Just throwing ideas out there at the moment as I think you've checked all the standard stuff.
Colin
YHM on where I got the switch from and also some thoughts about maybe changing the fan.
It sounds like your engine is either generating too much heat or the cooling system isn't efficient enough to reduce the heat you are producing; rather than the fan switch.
You said the rad was flushed and there are no blockages but you can't tell if the rad has any blockages simply by running water through it. There are so many routes through the rad that half of it could be blocked but water will still flow through from the inlet to the outlet. How old is the radiator, it might need a recore.
You say the temperature is even over the whole radiator which seems to indicate that it has water flowing through all of it. But it might be worth taking the rad out completely and having a good look over it to check that you've not got any damage to the cooling fins which will reduce the efficiency.
Which side is the fan on? In front of the rad (i.e. the radiator sits between the fan and the engine) or behind the radiator (i.e. the fan sits between the radiator and the engine)? I'm of the the opinion that it is better to have the fan between the radiator and the engine (i.e. pulling air through the radiator rather than trying to push it through). My S had the fan engine side of the rad and I think that is the standard arrangement ('standard' in the TVR meaning of the word
) Another thing to check is the power feed for the fan, might be worth running a voltmeter over the various points and checking there's not a bad connection that is reducing the voltage to the fan.
Might be worth getting the gases and timing checked just in case it's running out of tune.
One trick I've used to ensure there are no air locks at the top hose on the rad is to just loosen the jubille clip slightly on the rad connection at the top when the system is warm (i.e. has a little bit of pressure). The pressure should force any air trapped at the top of the rad out through this. Just tighten it up again when water starts to drip out.
Just throwing ideas out there at the moment as I think you've checked all the standard stuff.
Colin
Hi Tim,
I wonder if the exhaust wrap, whilst keeping the engine bay cooler, actually makes the engine hotter. (After all, if you wrapped the whole engine in it the engine bay would be cooler but the engine would certainly overheat!) Most of the heat kept in by the insulation goes down the exhaust but a little must get transferred from the maniflolds back to the engine - maybe enough to cause your problem?
Anyone else using exhaust wrap, with or without problems?
Mick
I wonder if the exhaust wrap, whilst keeping the engine bay cooler, actually makes the engine hotter. (After all, if you wrapped the whole engine in it the engine bay would be cooler but the engine would certainly overheat!) Most of the heat kept in by the insulation goes down the exhaust but a little must get transferred from the maniflolds back to the engine - maybe enough to cause your problem?
Anyone else using exhaust wrap, with or without problems?
Mick
Thanks for your help guys.
It might help if I explain 'Normal' as what my original engine did and hence what I think is 'normal' as against what this one does.
Original would rise slowly from cold, hick-up half way up the temp guage as thermostat evidently opened, and then proceeded to rise again to 90 degree mark. Did tend to run quite hot and often went up to 100 degrees with fan kicking in and out to restore temp according to my guage at about 95'ish. Never any water level change at all but suspected gauge a bit out.
This new one. Rises constantly from cold to 90 degrees with no interuption.Will then continue to rise slowly until fan kicks in. Fan runs constantly and seems to hold the temperature back with only slight further rises when stuck in traffic, but does not turn off again throughout rest of journey.
Haven't mentioned temp guage with new engine as when the new block was installed the guage started to give me concern. It would register a temp of 120 degrees sometimes
and garage said it was dodgy as they measured engine temp at about 95 degrees. Bought variable resistor and fitted it to indicate a temperature of about 92 degrees when the fan kicked in and hence think it now reads about correctly. Temp will now hover around a guage temp of 95 or so with fan running constanty,but aware I have manipulated gauge reading hence cautious.
Entire system flushed through in all directions but no crap came out anywhere, all clean.
Front jacked up high and filled through hoses as I worked back up to the top.Radiator bled, hoses all squeezed constantly, top rad hose unclipped and returned when water coming out,(Silicone hose-can't squeeze it- damn!) and topped up at swirl pot. Run with caps off, hoses squeezed, rad bled again. Tested until hot, cooled, bled again though level showed still full.Road tested. cooled. checked Levels constant. Never had any loss of water through caps or changes to swirl tank or overflow tank.Checked yesterday , still full to brim.
Mixture adjusted when engine installed and checked again at last weeks MOT. Garage says is good and plugs remain correct colour.Timing was set up with engine installation and seems correct throughout all performance.Could be checked again?
Rad is contstant temp wherever you place your hand and no-where seems terribly hot. Prob six years old but was fine with former engine and convinced it is still good.All fins are undamaged and inspected carefully when new engine fitted.
Fan is front mounted and blows air into rad from the air inlets in bonnet. Operates fast and furious. Worked fine before but never checked voltage...could do that, and I could add a second fan behind the rad to pull air through as well ???
I frankly think it is the engine creating too much heat rather than the cooling system being faulty, perhaps it is deficient in dispelling sufficient heat from an engine that creates too much. The exhaust wrap was on former engine also and agree it does probably seem to retain heat at the exhaust ports on the block...but tested without wrap and the engine ran hotter as I think the whole bay was full of even hotter trapped air, so wrap returned.
Any observations or clever insight to help chaps?
It's a bugger!
It might help if I explain 'Normal' as what my original engine did and hence what I think is 'normal' as against what this one does.
Original would rise slowly from cold, hick-up half way up the temp guage as thermostat evidently opened, and then proceeded to rise again to 90 degree mark. Did tend to run quite hot and often went up to 100 degrees with fan kicking in and out to restore temp according to my guage at about 95'ish. Never any water level change at all but suspected gauge a bit out.
This new one. Rises constantly from cold to 90 degrees with no interuption.Will then continue to rise slowly until fan kicks in. Fan runs constantly and seems to hold the temperature back with only slight further rises when stuck in traffic, but does not turn off again throughout rest of journey.
Haven't mentioned temp guage with new engine as when the new block was installed the guage started to give me concern. It would register a temp of 120 degrees sometimes
and garage said it was dodgy as they measured engine temp at about 95 degrees. Bought variable resistor and fitted it to indicate a temperature of about 92 degrees when the fan kicked in and hence think it now reads about correctly. Temp will now hover around a guage temp of 95 or so with fan running constanty,but aware I have manipulated gauge reading hence cautious. Entire system flushed through in all directions but no crap came out anywhere, all clean.
Front jacked up high and filled through hoses as I worked back up to the top.Radiator bled, hoses all squeezed constantly, top rad hose unclipped and returned when water coming out,(Silicone hose-can't squeeze it- damn!) and topped up at swirl pot. Run with caps off, hoses squeezed, rad bled again. Tested until hot, cooled, bled again though level showed still full.Road tested. cooled. checked Levels constant. Never had any loss of water through caps or changes to swirl tank or overflow tank.Checked yesterday , still full to brim.
Mixture adjusted when engine installed and checked again at last weeks MOT. Garage says is good and plugs remain correct colour.Timing was set up with engine installation and seems correct throughout all performance.Could be checked again?
Rad is contstant temp wherever you place your hand and no-where seems terribly hot. Prob six years old but was fine with former engine and convinced it is still good.All fins are undamaged and inspected carefully when new engine fitted.
Fan is front mounted and blows air into rad from the air inlets in bonnet. Operates fast and furious. Worked fine before but never checked voltage...could do that, and I could add a second fan behind the rad to pull air through as well ???
I frankly think it is the engine creating too much heat rather than the cooling system being faulty, perhaps it is deficient in dispelling sufficient heat from an engine that creates too much. The exhaust wrap was on former engine also and agree it does probably seem to retain heat at the exhaust ports on the block...but tested without wrap and the engine ran hotter as I think the whole bay was full of even hotter trapped air, so wrap returned.
Any observations or clever insight to help chaps?
It's a bugger! No difference Sam. Having the heater on or off makes no difference to the engine temp, and little to the car temp come to that!
The valve is always open to allow full flow of water and even on full fan, it makes no perceivable difference to the speed of rise in engine temp and no increased cooling.
The valve is always open to allow full flow of water and even on full fan, it makes no perceivable difference to the speed of rise in engine temp and no increased cooling.
Hi Tim,
The cooling systems in most cars are designed in such a way, that as soon as the car moves at a reasonable speed, the fan is not needed to cool the radiator. TVR's are always a bit different, but the cooling in the S seems to follow this design rule. (for example, this summer i must have driven my S2 for at least a month without a working fan. Didn't notice anything strange, until i left the car idling for a few minutes after a high speed run). So if you have a temperature problem when driving, the fan wouldn't be the first thing to look at.
What you actually want is one of those infrared thermometers, that you can point at an object to measure it's temperature. Failing that, a multimeter with a thermocouple could do the trick. What you want to know, is the difference in temperature between the water entering the radiator and flowing out of it. I would expect at least a 10deg.C difference. Also the temperature should gradually fall when measuring from right to left on the surface of the radiator. If one of these things are not correct, you should think of a radiator recore.
Then there's still the possibility of an airlock. This is difficult to determine, but following the cooling system with a thermometer could help. A sudden rise or drop in temperature could indicate an airbubble.
When you look into the swirl pot with cap taken off and engine running (thermostat open), does the water flow at a decent rate? You may have to drop the water level to below the top hose to see. You could have a blockage or a problem with your water pump, restricting flow.
Personally i don't believe that exhaust wrap can do wrong: Most of the heat from the exhaust tubes is transferred through radiation, and it's this part of heat transfer that you eliminate by using heat wrap. The thin walled exhaust doesn't act as a good heatsink to transfer heat into the cylinder head, so this will in my view not make things hotter.
The heat could be generated by a lean mixture, but then i would expect the engine to run rough, with a hesitant throttle pick-up. You could have your emissions tested at a garage, just to be sure.
My last suggestion is checking for a blown head gasket. Have you checked for the tell tale signs like an oily film on the cooling fluid, exessive pressure in the cooling system, oily film in cooling system, white smoke from exhaust or soapy sludge in the oil? Have you checked compression on all six cylinders?
Cheers,
Ronald
The cooling systems in most cars are designed in such a way, that as soon as the car moves at a reasonable speed, the fan is not needed to cool the radiator. TVR's are always a bit different, but the cooling in the S seems to follow this design rule. (for example, this summer i must have driven my S2 for at least a month without a working fan. Didn't notice anything strange, until i left the car idling for a few minutes after a high speed run). So if you have a temperature problem when driving, the fan wouldn't be the first thing to look at.
What you actually want is one of those infrared thermometers, that you can point at an object to measure it's temperature. Failing that, a multimeter with a thermocouple could do the trick. What you want to know, is the difference in temperature between the water entering the radiator and flowing out of it. I would expect at least a 10deg.C difference. Also the temperature should gradually fall when measuring from right to left on the surface of the radiator. If one of these things are not correct, you should think of a radiator recore.
Then there's still the possibility of an airlock. This is difficult to determine, but following the cooling system with a thermometer could help. A sudden rise or drop in temperature could indicate an airbubble.
When you look into the swirl pot with cap taken off and engine running (thermostat open), does the water flow at a decent rate? You may have to drop the water level to below the top hose to see. You could have a blockage or a problem with your water pump, restricting flow.
Personally i don't believe that exhaust wrap can do wrong: Most of the heat from the exhaust tubes is transferred through radiation, and it's this part of heat transfer that you eliminate by using heat wrap. The thin walled exhaust doesn't act as a good heatsink to transfer heat into the cylinder head, so this will in my view not make things hotter.
The heat could be generated by a lean mixture, but then i would expect the engine to run rough, with a hesitant throttle pick-up. You could have your emissions tested at a garage, just to be sure.
My last suggestion is checking for a blown head gasket. Have you checked for the tell tale signs like an oily film on the cooling fluid, exessive pressure in the cooling system, oily film in cooling system, white smoke from exhaust or soapy sludge in the oil? Have you checked compression on all six cylinders?
Cheers,
Ronald
Just a thought, but the only thing you seem to have changed is the Engine itself, is it possible that the block is silted up rather than the radiator.If the engine was stood for a while the corrosion inside could have loosened, broken off the surfaces and now be gathering in one or two places restricting flow to the rad.Slim chance I know but my be worth back flushing the block and see what comes out??
If the engine was rebuilt has a gasket gone in the wrong way round partly obscuring a passageway???.I know these are some far fetched ideas but as others have said ,you seem to have done all the obvious ones.
Out of interest when my car is stood with the engine running and I put the heatrer fan on it can drop the temp by about 2-5 degs and hold it there (at approx 90Deg),I'm not saying thats right,but mine does it.
If the engine was rebuilt has a gasket gone in the wrong way round partly obscuring a passageway???.I know these are some far fetched ideas but as others have said ,you seem to have done all the obvious ones.
Out of interest when my car is stood with the engine running and I put the heatrer fan on it can drop the temp by about 2-5 degs and hold it there (at approx 90Deg),I'm not saying thats right,but mine does it.
F908 Tim said:
Rises constantly from cold to 90 degrees with no interuption.Will then continue to rise slowly until fan kicks in. Fan runs constantly and seems to hold the temperature back with only slight further rises when stuck in traffic, but does not turn off again throughout rest of journey.
Have you definitely have got rid of any airlocks (you haven't mentioned bleeding the top of the radiator)? The "otter" switch won't work if it's dry, neither will the thermostat. The coolant won't circulate properly either if there is a significant air pocket in the system.
If there are no airlocks, then the symptoms would tend to point to a problem with the thermostat. I know that you said that you changed it. Did you test it first (I know that you wouldn't normally test a new one but you never know). Did you install the new one with the wee "jiggle pin" at the top? I don't know why this makes a difference, but it does - I was warned before I installed a new stat in my 2.9 granada to make sure it was the right way up or the thermostat wouldn't work properly (although that would admittedly give you the opposite problem - the thermostat effectively never closes so the car doesn't heat up properly)
It does sound as if the thermostat is sticking shut. As the car warms up you should be able to feel the top hose heat up suddenly as the thermostat opens, rather than a gradual increase in temperature. You should also be able to feel the radiator heat up from top hose, sideways and downwards, to bottom hose. If it heats from the bottom up, then the heat is circulating in reverse by convection, not as designed, and the radiator will never work properly.
Also interesting, though, that the heater doesn't work at all - when I had a cooling problem when I first bought the car (before I switched the swirl pot and expansion caps over... oh no let's not go there!) I had to put the heater on full heat and the fastest fan speed if I stopped in traffic, or the engine boiled over. The heater matrix and fan should definitely contribute to engine cooling ( they don't have to if everything else works properly but in an emergency they do help keep the car cool) - if yours makes no difference then that would seem to suggest some blockage or problem with water circulation.
I know that this isn't very definitive, more a series of musings, but I hope it helps!
Le TVR said:
F908 Tim said:
Rad is contstant temp wherever you place your hand and no-where seems terribly hot.
I think this is it.
If you can place your hand all over a radiator supposedly at 90°
and it doesnt seem terribly hot....
Either you have asbestos hands or the coolant isnt circulating.
Missed that bit. Would seem to confirm what I was thinking.
Guys...I am really grateful for your thoughts and time contributing.
I gave it another bleed last night from rad and top hoses, No air in there, I'd stake my life on it. The thermostat is the right way up I remember,toggle at the top.I didn't test it as it was new but will check temp on all system with car standing from cold to make sure everything gets hot in the expected order. All hoses have same pressure and temp but good idea to bleed off some water and see just how much does flow out of the top hose into the swirl pot.
Not sure what a decent rate is but It should be evident.
A remote thermometer is a good idea...Maplins, plumbers, B&Q ???
No evidence of a head gasket leak with water and oil(just changed) and both clean and unpoluted. No mayo anywhere and heads torqued up after run in.Emissions checked at MOT at weekend and no hesitation I would not contribute to running on a Crebi TP.
When I got in last night I checked over rad again. (Though I had done only 5 miles and temp gauge said still just below 90 degrees). The top was pretty hot and same temp right accross it's length. It was warm down the left(Flow side bottom left, and at the top return corner but only just warm half way down and cold at the bottom. Need to start from cold and let stand until fan kicks in to see it's temperature again when unaffected by driving as naturally cold air through intakes kept it cold at bottom I assume...or is it blocked and water flowing only over the top? Testing stationery will tell.
Engine flushed prior to installation and again at weekend.All clean.
Heater blower on full may help stop temp rise to dangerous level but it certainly does not reduce the temp on my system at anything measurable by the gauge.Don't think it did on my old engine either...so possibly another pointer to the rad. Think I need to test and have a chat with a rad specialist.
Going to Brum tomorrow and back Friday so fingers are crossed until I can test for your suggestions over the weekend.If you see a bloke on the verge of the M1 or M6 with his head in his hands and a pile of blue fibreglass beside him...be sure to wave!
(she's a good girl, she won't let me down)
I gave it another bleed last night from rad and top hoses, No air in there, I'd stake my life on it. The thermostat is the right way up I remember,toggle at the top.I didn't test it as it was new but will check temp on all system with car standing from cold to make sure everything gets hot in the expected order. All hoses have same pressure and temp but good idea to bleed off some water and see just how much does flow out of the top hose into the swirl pot.
Not sure what a decent rate is but It should be evident.
A remote thermometer is a good idea...Maplins, plumbers, B&Q ???
No evidence of a head gasket leak with water and oil(just changed) and both clean and unpoluted. No mayo anywhere and heads torqued up after run in.Emissions checked at MOT at weekend and no hesitation I would not contribute to running on a Crebi TP.
When I got in last night I checked over rad again. (Though I had done only 5 miles and temp gauge said still just below 90 degrees). The top was pretty hot and same temp right accross it's length. It was warm down the left(Flow side bottom left, and at the top return corner but only just warm half way down and cold at the bottom. Need to start from cold and let stand until fan kicks in to see it's temperature again when unaffected by driving as naturally cold air through intakes kept it cold at bottom I assume...or is it blocked and water flowing only over the top? Testing stationery will tell.
Engine flushed prior to installation and again at weekend.All clean.
Heater blower on full may help stop temp rise to dangerous level but it certainly does not reduce the temp on my system at anything measurable by the gauge.Don't think it did on my old engine either...so possibly another pointer to the rad. Think I need to test and have a chat with a rad specialist.
Going to Brum tomorrow and back Friday so fingers are crossed until I can test for your suggestions over the weekend.If you see a bloke on the verge of the M1 or M6 with his head in his hands and a pile of blue fibreglass beside him...be sure to wave!
(she's a good girl, she won't let me down)
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