New Owner say hi
Discussion
Hi all, as a new owner i thought i would delurk and say hi, have been reading for a while, and have already found lots of helpful advice - but now i have a few questions and would be most grateful for any feedback at all.
Firstly - I was going to buy a tr6 or mgb but didnt like the lack of power (Mate owns a Caterham - and i would never have kept up) When i cam across a buyers guide for the S series. I found one locally that checked all the boxes so i went for it. I am so pleased with the car but now have a few Q`s?
1) The chassis is good (its only done 30k miles) but a local specialist recommends "shutzing" the underneath, is it a good idea? does £400 inc vat sound right?
2) I visited a well known local performance tuners who said they "couldnt work with the engine - it doesnt tune well". I was mighty disappointed, i dont want to tune the life out of it, i just want to give the above caterham a decent run for its money. Any suggestions?
3) is it ok to cut a hole in the back shelf for a sub? or should i keep it original?
Im not massivly technical - but i hope to learn - and i look forward to hopefully meeting some of you guys next summer.
Thanks very much.
Matt.
Firstly - I was going to buy a tr6 or mgb but didnt like the lack of power (Mate owns a Caterham - and i would never have kept up) When i cam across a buyers guide for the S series. I found one locally that checked all the boxes so i went for it. I am so pleased with the car but now have a few Q`s?
1) The chassis is good (its only done 30k miles) but a local specialist recommends "shutzing" the underneath, is it a good idea? does £400 inc vat sound right?
2) I visited a well known local performance tuners who said they "couldnt work with the engine - it doesnt tune well". I was mighty disappointed, i dont want to tune the life out of it, i just want to give the above caterham a decent run for its money. Any suggestions?
3) is it ok to cut a hole in the back shelf for a sub? or should i keep it original?
Im not massivly technical - but i hope to learn - and i look forward to hopefully meeting some of you guys next summer.
Thanks very much.
Matt.
Hi welcome to a very special corner of PH
I am sure there are many links to help if you search but my two p's worth.
1) Chassis - if you still have powder coating or paint and there are no rusty patches - check u/s front, side tubes by sills, rear of front wheels, round petrol tank etc. then Waxoyl is the product to use, and keep using on a yearly basis if using the car all the time. If you have surface rust, wirebrush and paint with POR 15 or Hammerite before Waxoyl. Chassis must be dry. If you spot rust (more than surface) get it checked out by a good garage. £400 seems a bit high for a quick blast of 'gunge' - check what is to be used and how thorough they will be. Why not do it yourself and save the cash for item 3 - you will miss the fun of lying on your back being covered with various dust, paint, underseal etc. - that what winter is for !!
2) Engine - not an expert on V6 but they are tough and can be tweaked and chipped. Check other threads - any help guys?
3) Subs - You dare ! Spend money from 1 above and the cost of an overgrown tweeter on a good stainless exhaust and you won't need a 'sub' - or any form of radio - just listen to the soundtrack from the car - that what TVR are so good at !
Welcome to PH
G
I am sure there are many links to help if you search but my two p's worth.
1) Chassis - if you still have powder coating or paint and there are no rusty patches - check u/s front, side tubes by sills, rear of front wheels, round petrol tank etc. then Waxoyl is the product to use, and keep using on a yearly basis if using the car all the time. If you have surface rust, wirebrush and paint with POR 15 or Hammerite before Waxoyl. Chassis must be dry. If you spot rust (more than surface) get it checked out by a good garage. £400 seems a bit high for a quick blast of 'gunge' - check what is to be used and how thorough they will be. Why not do it yourself and save the cash for item 3 - you will miss the fun of lying on your back being covered with various dust, paint, underseal etc. - that what winter is for !!
2) Engine - not an expert on V6 but they are tough and can be tweaked and chipped. Check other threads - any help guys?
3) Subs - You dare ! Spend money from 1 above and the cost of an overgrown tweeter on a good stainless exhaust and you won't need a 'sub' - or any form of radio - just listen to the soundtrack from the car - that what TVR are so good at !
Welcome to PH
G
stourbridges2tvr said:
1) The chassis is good (its only done 30k miles) but a local specialist recommends "shutzing" the underneath, is it a good idea? does £400 inc vat sound right?Matt.
At a recent show (Steam Engines) I bought a tray of 6 Large Shutz for £12 from a trade stand,A decent compressor costs about £250-£300,add to that a schutz applier for about £15-£20 and if you must ,do it yorself and save £58 and get a free compressor. No, I would say that £400 for that type of coating is ridiculous, also bear in mind that at some point you will have to work on the chassis or a components under the car and it can be a real pain to get that stuff off,its quite good on large flat areas such as the underside of steel floorpans or under wing areas ,but not for items such as chassis rails. I think there could also be a chance of them sealing the drains under the floor and the areas between the chassis outer rails and the body causing areas of water to "pool".Maybe I have a bee in my bonnet over Schutz, but I have always associated it as a good way of covering up something that would otherwise look poor, thats why many backstreet garages use it to cover up their poor welding results.
I would suggest as the previous posts clean it,protect it and leave it such that you can examine it at any time.I have a Chassis I am working on at present which was on a car till recently ,you would be amazed at the corrosion it has suffered without immediate detection.
Welcome to the fold.
1) Chassis - the two most important areas to check (before you cover it up) are the chassis outriggers and the semi-trailing arms (been there, done thet - both!
):
The n/s outrigger rots at the front, just behind the front n/s wheel, mainly due to stones, etc thrown up by the wheel. It is usually the top of the tube, so it's hard to spot. You can give it better protection by extending the inner wheelarch downwards or fitting a flap. For some reason the o/s tube usually fares better.
The semi-trailing arms rot (usually o/s first) because they're made up from open tubes. New replacement items are not available for the S2, so you have the choice of replacing both with new later-type ones from TVR Car Parts or getting the rusted arm refurbished by Adrian Venn.
2) Engine - not the most tuneable Ford engine, but it can be chipped and tweaked.
3) Sub - your choice.
...and buy the book:
www.shpub.co.uk/tvrbooks/s_book_1.html
Enjoy.
1) Chassis - the two most important areas to check (before you cover it up) are the chassis outriggers and the semi-trailing arms (been there, done thet - both!
): The n/s outrigger rots at the front, just behind the front n/s wheel, mainly due to stones, etc thrown up by the wheel. It is usually the top of the tube, so it's hard to spot. You can give it better protection by extending the inner wheelarch downwards or fitting a flap. For some reason the o/s tube usually fares better.
The semi-trailing arms rot (usually o/s first) because they're made up from open tubes. New replacement items are not available for the S2, so you have the choice of replacing both with new later-type ones from TVR Car Parts or getting the rusted arm refurbished by Adrian Venn.
2) Engine - not the most tuneable Ford engine, but it can be chipped and tweaked.
3) Sub - your choice.
...and buy the book:
www.shpub.co.uk/tvrbooks/s_book_1.html
Enjoy.
1. No. Ridiculous price. Shouldn't be half that.
2. You want to keep up with a Caterham in an S?
Seeing as the closest comparison to a Caterham is a sports bike you won't have a chance, not matter what you do to the engine. You may catch sight of the back of it if you stick to dual carriageways. My Elise is only mid 140 bhp and is quicker in real life than my 4 litre V8 Chimaera was.
Easiest way to decent performance is to swap the Cologne for the Cosworth 24valve V6. If your funds dont stretch to that, I suggest having a look at Burton Power for some simpler mods. Either way, unless your mate cant drive for toffee, forget trying to keep up and savour the fact that the S is a different sort of car.
3. If you want to be even slower, add copious stereo equipment to weigh the car down.
2. You want to keep up with a Caterham in an S?
Seeing as the closest comparison to a Caterham is a sports bike you won't have a chance, not matter what you do to the engine. You may catch sight of the back of it if you stick to dual carriageways. My Elise is only mid 140 bhp and is quicker in real life than my 4 litre V8 Chimaera was. Easiest way to decent performance is to swap the Cologne for the Cosworth 24valve V6. If your funds dont stretch to that, I suggest having a look at Burton Power for some simpler mods. Either way, unless your mate cant drive for toffee, forget trying to keep up and savour the fact that the S is a different sort of car.
3. If you want to be even slower, add copious stereo equipment to weigh the car down.
Thanks all for your help.
Will cancel the shutz i think and buy some axle stands, goggles, mask, wire brush.....etc etc
Still hope for somewhere near 200 bhp - no my mate cant drive for toffee - infact he regularly sports a bit of hedge as a bonnet mascot
Just fitted a blaupunct seville off ebay - sounds just fine - so no subs needed i dont think!
right weres me overalls and red oxide..?
PS will upload some pics tonight, thank you all for your help.
Will cancel the shutz i think and buy some axle stands, goggles, mask, wire brush.....etc etc
Still hope for somewhere near 200 bhp - no my mate cant drive for toffee - infact he regularly sports a bit of hedge as a bonnet mascot
Just fitted a blaupunct seville off ebay - sounds just fine - so no subs needed i dont think!
right weres me overalls and red oxide..?
PS will upload some pics tonight, thank you all for your help.
Matt - see, I knew advice would bound to turn up.
Glad to see you are getting stuck in to the chassis. Take care as with all forms of working under a car - safety first.
Don't be disarmed with the V6 it is still grand to drive and there is always a 'Cossie' conversion or the V8 as the next step up - if you need it.
Definately get Steve H's book (the bible) and keep reading the forum.
Lets have some piccy's so we know what to look for in the South- West Mids area. You should be able to see 'ours' on my site - I will keep a look-out. (a weekend car now the weather has turned !)
It's a quiet one with no radio - hee hee.
Welcome again to lots of smiles (and grazed knuckles !)
G
Glad to see you are getting stuck in to the chassis. Take care as with all forms of working under a car - safety first.
Don't be disarmed with the V6 it is still grand to drive and there is always a 'Cossie' conversion or the V8 as the next step up - if you need it.
Definately get Steve H's book (the bible) and keep reading the forum.
Lets have some piccy's so we know what to look for in the South- West Mids area. You should be able to see 'ours' on my site - I will keep a look-out. (a weekend car now the weather has turned !)
It's a quiet one with no radio - hee hee.
Welcome again to lots of smiles (and grazed knuckles !)
G
Sorry to butt in a bit but got a question for RJC-S3. Could you tell me about the speakers you have in the back? what type of speakers (6x9, mids etc.) How have you mounted them. Im thinking of building a small stealth install on the back with maybe 2 4way 6x9s and a small amp. Nothing heavy, big or visible. Any pics of yours?
I will try to make it , yes. Im guessung the next one is nov 14th? which i cant make - but are they afternoons or evenings?
Took off the door panels tonight and trying to decide how to retrim the steel trim, im thinking chrome? any thoughts? Also, is retrimming the door panels in leather a hard/professional job? if it is who does it around the west mids?
Thanks.
Took off the door panels tonight and trying to decide how to retrim the steel trim, im thinking chrome? any thoughts? Also, is retrimming the door panels in leather a hard/professional job? if it is who does it around the west mids?
Thanks.
stourbridges2tvr said:
Took off the door panels tonight and trying to decide how to retrim the steel trim, im thinking chrome? any thoughts?
Hi Matt
The trims are aluminium if I remember correctly. You can flick (scrape) the wood effect off and polish them. There is a link on here somewhere showing before and after results. Good look with retrimming the doors.
Steve
My door trim was ally too with painted wood effect. tried to paint new wood effect but iam no picasso. nipped down to B&Q and got a length of hardwood halfround trim 15mm i think, rounded the edges with sandpaper and two coats of varnish, looks superb, matches glove box handle perfectly. just watch out when fixing, i used doublesided tape to stick it in place first then screwed in from rear, need very small screws and washers to get right spacings or screws will split wood, hope it helps, good luck
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