To thread lock or not

[jasoncook]

well as the title says I am in a bit of a delema,I had a crank pulley bolt snap I then replaced it, The bolt was not thread locked so the end of the bolt came out of the crank with ease now the pulley has come loose and has split so one new balanced pulley later (Griff 500 95 only available from power once you send them your old pulley)I am ready to re fit with a new bolt so do I thread lock it or not cheers Jason

Edited by jasoncook on Tuesday 10th October 19:31

[Mr Jenks]

I had the same problem with my Chim, the pulley came loose on a trackday, I noticed a vibration from the engine at around 4500rpm, came into the pits and found the pulley was loose. The bolt was still there but the pulley had worn away the woodruff key and I could not locate the pulley correctly so it was a recovery job, first session as well, the whole day was wasted.
I was lucky and got a pulley, TVRPower match balanced it with the original. DON`T risk it, loctite everything, theres nothing to loose.

[2munkys]

Yup, had the same problem as you guys earlier in the year. Gave the female threads in the crank a thorough wire-brushing and a degrease before applying a goodly few dollops of thread-lock to the new bolt. I suppose drilling and wirelocking would be the most secure solution though.

[GreenV8S]

Remember that the pulley will have to come off if you need any work done inside the engine - cam change, for example.

[cheeky]

Ask Ted - he's quite good at locking threads from time to time!

edited to add for Ted

Edited by cheeky on Wednesday 11th October 15:20

[seasider]

cheeky said:

Ask Ted - he's quite good at locking threads from time to time!

Bin the heretic !!!!

[BliarsGoing]

GreenV8S said:

Remember that the pulley will have to come off if you need any work done inside the engine - cam change, for example.

Don't use 601/3 or you'll never get it off. Use an anti-vibration thread locking compound such as the 243 which is designed to come undone with normal hand tools.