Discussion
Hi. Have been trying to realign my S2 bonnet this afternoon. All going fine until I found that the bonnet catch would not release the bonnet after I shut it. Left hand side has now released. What can I do?, dismantle fronm inside the footwell? Any ideas really welcome. Thanks in anticipation.
You could try getting somebody to sit in the car and hold the bonnet release lever open, while you go round nudging the bonnet sideways and maybe from the front, to see if that will release it.
I don't think it's accessible from the footwell - I thought it was double-skinned there. Might be wrong there though.
I don't think it's accessible from the footwell - I thought it was double-skinned there. Might be wrong there though.
s2andy said:
Hi. Have been trying to realign my S2 bonnet this afternoon. All going fine until I found that the bonnet catch would not release the bonnet after I shut it. Left hand side has now released. What can I do?, dismantle fronm inside the footwell?
Yes, it's not that difficult. You can get a socket on to the heads of the two bolts that hold the lock plate from underneath inside the "wing" from the footwell. You won't need to remove the bolts completely, as just loosening them should give you enough movement to release the bonnet pins.
tvrgit said:
I don't think it's accessible from the footwell - I thought it was double-skinned there.
That's only true for S3 onwards. It's open in S1 & S2.If the cable is still intact (i.e. if you still have resistance on the handle) then wedging the handle in the open position and then pulling the bonnet firmly sideways, forwards, backwards will pull the bonnet a quarter of an inch which should be enough to release the latch. I suggest you make sure the bonnet adjusters down at the hinge at tight and then use the masking tape technique to get the pins aligned with the latch tape to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Thanks guys - managed to get the bonnet open now. Unfortunately the root cause is a badly frayed cable around the nylon pulley.I have undone one of the latches and the cable ends in a brazed on nipple. I haven't checked the other side yet. Has any used bicycle gear cable as a replacement or can you still get the pukka cable and where from? Thanks
Id go for somethiong a gbit thicker than cycle gear cable. Try a rear Tandem Brake cable, preferably braided. This may come with a pear nipple on one end and a barrel nipple on the other, you cut off the one you dont need . You will then be able to thread the cable from one side, through the outer cables, round the pully and across to the other side via the outer. At this end you can use a solderless nipple, I did this when my cable snapped right at the nipple. Make sure you lube the cable with a light oil as you thread it through the inner.
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