LSD for a normal CWP?

[love machine]

I'm looking at running a tall final drive (long legs) and legend has it the salisbury type crownwheels only go down to 3.44, I'm thinking of running a 3.1 as I should have the welly to pull it well. Ideally, I'd like to have a LSD to keep things in control say about 80lbs/ft. Turning the flange off it and welding it to a modified normal CWP probably isn't the brightest idea

Not one of those "jam the pinions" things either.

BUGGER! Can someone move this into the classic mini forum

Edited by love machine on Wednesday 4th October 12:26

[guru_1071]

its easy

get the standard crownwheel and machine the centre out. then drill the holes to suit your lsd.

its a swine of a job thanks to the case hardening, but is do-able, the first cwp i ran with my lsd was done this way.

no need for any welding or stuff like that

you also have the benefit of helical gears, so its a little quieter, not that it will matter, im sure

[cooperman]

If you've never driven with an LSD before, then try to have a go in one before you finally decide to install one on your car.
For a road car they can be really nasty and unfriendly things.
I won't use them on my rally cars as I can't drive with them - well, certainly not as quickly as I can without. They 'reverse' the power-on/power-off characteristic and if you lift-off in a tightening corner to increase the oversteer, with an LSD you just understeer off (oh, yes, I've done it!).
For racing it's a diferent matter.
The most undriveable Mini I ever had a go in had a 649 cam, a 4.1 diff with an LSD and a Weber. It was absolutely awful to drive, but very quick off the line, as you might expect.

[Mr2Mike]

Anyone tried a Quaife ATB in a mini? My current jap crap (Civic VTi) is the first FWD car I've had with a torque biasing diff and I have to say it works very well, giving impressive traction from a standing start. Even with a relatively mild 1275 I can remeber getting the power down in a mini being problematic, esp. in the wet.

[kjw]

The Tranex LSD have a choice of ramp blocks 55/90 for road use, 45/90 for tarmac stages and 35/90 for race use. I run the 45/90 for track use and it seems fine.

[guru_1071]

Mr2Mike said:

Anyone tried a Quaife ATB in a mini? My current jap crap (Civic VTi) is the first FWD car I've had with a torque biasing diff and I have to say it works very well, giving impressive traction from a standing start. Even with a relatively mild 1275 I can remeber getting the power down in a mini being problematic, esp. in the wet.

i run one in my racer

we call them 'lady diffs' because they dont tug around like the plate type ones and are easier on the arms!

its a nice thing, but looses traction if one wheel is off the ground or a shaft snaps, so usless for rallying.

if buying again i would put a plate type in, just for the option of the ramp angles and the plate interleaving, though for the power and grip my car has its ideal.

i did run it in my road car, but took it out because it spoilt the driving, i prefered it to spin a wheel up - i dont really thrash it and felt it was a bit of a overkill tbh

the only problem with the quaiffe is sorting out a cwp. any shop bought ones will need modifying to fit - not expensive just a pain to sort.

[love machine]

So, I'd class myself as a pretty top class mini slinger. It goes fast and is a handful to drive. The sort of thing your mother wouldn't like. I'm putting my blower back in and it's going to be boosted up a bit more. IRO 150 bananas and a lot of torque. So, I was thinking since the car is set up to go fast, not be comfortable. I use it for A/B road blasting and plan to do a bit of competing in it. I was thinking of something like a salisbury with a lowish break point. I turned one down for £150 a while ago. Thing was, I'm aware of the CWP being limited to 3.44 (I think you can machine a 3.2 to fit) but due to the power curve, I'd like to drag a higher ratio around. I'm aware that Jack Knight used to make SC final drives down to 2.75 for Ford/Mini Box setups, I've looked at the slop in my last box and thought a SC FD would be a good idea to get rid of the thrusts. I can either find one of these second hand and then would probably be looking at a 4 pin diff or whatever fits the normal centre or getting one made up. It's pointless having power going up in smoke.