Two pack and isocyanates

[Mr Whippy]

Well I'm wanting to do some spraying, we have an adequately ventilated enclosure and an air-fed mask and all the rest, but after MUCH reading and searching the intricacies of it still evade me.

WHERE is the isocyanate?

I have the base coat (an ally metallic for alloy wheels), thinner for that 2:1

Then I have the clearcoat with hardener, again 2:1

So is the isocyanate in the base coat, or purely in the hardener as a reactant for the laquer and base?


I also keep hearing about non isocyanate paints becoming more common, again is this purely hardener related or in all the paints?

Is my paint supplier best asked about the consituents of his paints?

Cheers

Dave

[steve_d]

Not sure which part but the tin should tell you as it is a significant hazard.

Steve

[Anatol]

Sounds like you have a 1k basecoat, which will therefore be iso-free.

The iso's are the hardeners, so will most likely be in the hardener component of your 2k products - in the situation you've listed, the clearcoat hardener.

Non-iso products are not really becoming more popular. 2k non-iso products that can stand up to the rigours of automotive use are pretty rare.

Lower-solvent content clearcoats are becoming more popular as the law phases the high-solvent stuff out, in favour of waterborne. Compliant 2k products may still be iso-hardened though. It's the solvent content being outlawed, not the isocyanates.

HTH

Tol

[Mr Whippy]

Yep that helps lots thanks

Will still give the paint supplier a quick bell but a quick look had the isocyanate marking on the clearcoat hardener.

Just need to be 100% what the base coat is ideally.


Are there any rough precautions for 1k bases? Can you just use a good filter mask or are you best sticking with the pressure air fed mask still (as with isocyanate?)

So how does the base coat go off too? Obviously there isn't much prepping you can do with a metallic base, so does the clearcoat activator/hardener cure the base too, or is that some other process...

Any in-depth links would be handy if there are any available... done plenty of cellulose before but the range of 2 pack techniques is quite wide and differs so much (ie solid with no clear, solid with clear, metallic etc)

Dave

[Anatol]

If the basecoat is solvent-borne, a filter mask will help with the metallic flakes, but not the VOC's. You'd need a VOC mask for that - but since you have an air-fed, use it, it's the best protection for your lungs.

The basecoat will go off by whatever solvent (including possibly water) it's borne in evaporating.

The clearcoat/hardener will NOT cure the base. Make sure you allow the full time recommended for the basecoat to cure before overcoating it. Otherwise you will trap solvent in the paintjob, which might affect the finish and will affect the longevity.

HTH

Tol

Mr Whippy said:

Yep that helps lots thanks

Will still give the paint supplier a quick bell but a quick look had the isocyanate marking on the clearcoat hardener.

Just need to be 100% what the base coat is ideally.


Are there any rough precautions for 1k bases? Can you just use a good filter mask or are you best sticking with the pressure air fed mask still (as with isocyanate?)

So how does the base coat go off too? Obviously there isn't much prepping you can do with a metallic base, so does the clearcoat activator/hardener cure the base too, or is that some other process...

Any in-depth links would be handy if there are any available... done plenty of cellulose before but the range of 2 pack techniques is quite wide and differs so much (ie solid with no clear, solid with clear, metallic etc)

Dave

[Mr Whippy]

All very good!

You've been most helpfull


I need to try find some good reading material online at some point, or a book maybe, but it seems to be a kind of non published work process from what I can find.

If I get suck anywhere else I know who to ask anyway

Thanks again!

Dave

[badgersport]

If you have an air fed mask it makes sense to use it for all paint types. Even old fashioned Cellulose isn't exactly good for your lungs.

Just make sure that the compressor feeding your breathing air is up to the job and is taking in clean air. When using IsoCyonate paints you should really wear a proper suit as well as the chemicals can go through your skin.

[Mr Whippy]

Yep, we have a number of compressors (big things over a ft diameter and over a metre long, not sure on the exact rating), with one in a neighbouring building for fresh air feed. 3 phase leccy fed things.
Yep, looking into suits but not sure on what is best. Is close knit cotton fabric best, which you use only in the enclosure and don't go scratch and sniffing best then? Kinda like some good overalls covering all your skin?

Only really doing wheels in two pack now, but it'd be good to get an idea of added safety features if we want to do a full car for example.


Again, could really do with a beginners guide to spray boothing, know bits and bobs but not the overall best practice for the budding amateur enthusiast.

Is there anything like that available?

Thanks for the help so far.

Dave



Edit:

Another quick question, is it the isocyanate that is the problem, or the mix of that and the laquer?

Ie, is each one on their own less hazardous, and only nasty when inhaled as a vapour mixture of reactants, or is it purely the isocyanate on it's own that can cause problems?

(kinda looking at it like inhaling vapourised araldite, I'd not want to breath in the mix (solid lungs), but I can kinda see one on it's own not being quite as bad if it won't harden up)...

Cheers

Dave

Edited by Mr Whippy on Tuesday 8th August 17:07