Discussion
bought my s1 over a year ago, always thought it ran hot but have been told this is normal, i had a new radiator fitted three months ago after putting a hole in the old one and a new thermostat last week, gauge still sits between the top white line and just out of the red even with fan running. rad was new but was for chimera. is it normal to run this warm or us it just the summer heat
Mines S2, but runs hot the same as you describe.
It's disconserting but does not seem to do any harm.
Even thinking of cutting out the front crossmember on the bonnet that seperates the top from bottom grilles,just to get more cold air in.Easy enough to fashion a big grill and inset new indicators.
A thought?
It's disconserting but does not seem to do any harm.
Even thinking of cutting out the front crossmember on the bonnet that seperates the top from bottom grilles,just to get more cold air in.Easy enough to fashion a big grill and inset new indicators.
A thought?
Afternoon chaps,
For what it's worth, my S3 has only gone over the white line on the temp' gauge once. That was due to me being sat in stationary traffic at Le Mans this year for 30 minutes with the outside temperature being about 32 degrees.
Typically, back in Blighty the fan rarely cuts in with the temp' gauge generally rock solid around 90 degrees. I would suggest, if you haven't already done so, that you install a manual overide switch for the fan. I am of the opinion that prevention is better than cure. Surely it's easier to hold the engine at a stable temperature with the fan running than it is to cool it down with the fan once the engine has already over heated......?
Hope this helps,
IanM
For what it's worth, my S3 has only gone over the white line on the temp' gauge once. That was due to me being sat in stationary traffic at Le Mans this year for 30 minutes with the outside temperature being about 32 degrees.
Typically, back in Blighty the fan rarely cuts in with the temp' gauge generally rock solid around 90 degrees. I would suggest, if you haven't already done so, that you install a manual overide switch for the fan. I am of the opinion that prevention is better than cure. Surely it's easier to hold the engine at a stable temperature with the fan running than it is to cool it down with the fan once the engine has already over heated......?
Hope this helps,
IanM
Fitted an over-ride ages ago, but if you believe the guage then the engine is running to hot.
Garage says they have tested it and fan kicks in at 95 degrees and out again at 93.They are happy,but for me the fan comes on too regularly and stays on too long.
Never looses water though and no airlocks.The rad always seems at a sensible temperature throughout but the heater hoses are very hot and hoses generally seem to be pretty high pressure.
I Dunno...some do, some dont. Any ideas?
Garage says they have tested it and fan kicks in at 95 degrees and out again at 93.They are happy,but for me the fan comes on too regularly and stays on too long.
Never looses water though and no airlocks.The rad always seems at a sensible temperature throughout but the heater hoses are very hot and hoses generally seem to be pretty high pressure.
I Dunno...some do, some dont. Any ideas?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the rad in the S series angled forward so that it clears the bonnet? If this is the case, the rad outlet at the bottom will be pointing skywards slightly. If there is any sludge in the bottom of the rad, it won't be able to escape easily and may be hampering flow. It may be worth removing the top and bottom hoses and flushing the rad through with a hose (if you're not living in a ban area......)
Cheers,
IanM
Cheers,
IanM
Problem may not be the radiator but the intake path. My S1 ran hot until I took out original grills which were a very fine mesh and were part blocked with GRP so cooling flow was badly reduced. Fitted wider mesh and now don't have a worry about overheating. Another option would be take the thermostat out pro tem and see how you get on. Not a worry at moment because it is warm but need to replace by winter. Hope this helps.
Pete
Pete
Problem may not be the radiator but the intake path. My S1 ran hot until I took out original grills which were a very fine mesh and were part blocked with GRP so cooling flow was badly reduced. Fitted wider mesh and now don't have a worry about overheating. Another option would be take the thermostat out pro tem and see how you get on. Not a worry at moment because it is warm but need to replace by winter. Hope this helps.
Pete
Pete
Dont forget to actually check what the real temperature is. Car guages are notoriously inaccurate (except speedo where there is a legal requirement for accuracy).
Also the temperature guage on the S is the most sensitive to any voltage variation, so much so that it can be a useful indicator of electrical problems elsewhere in the car!
Also the temperature guage on the S is the most sensitive to any voltage variation, so much so that it can be a useful indicator of electrical problems elsewhere in the car!
Thanks for the ideas.
I reckoned with mine that it was the gauge giving a high reading so fitted a variable resistor which is set to show a reading just below the red when the fan cuts in. When I have done 10 miles or so the guage just slowly rises until the fan cuts in and in my opinion it is working hard to cool the engine or at least the enclosed engine bay.Thermostat clicks in ok and is new along with the rest of the engine.Previous one ran hot but not so much.
The fan is mounted in front of the rad and probably impedes more air flowing in when it is running when over 25 MPH than doing any good cooling.and,Yes...it is blowing the right way round.
The Rad does not seem to be a problem as constant temp throughout.
I think mine needs more cold air through the front and hence idea about cutting bigger space for grill. As indicator lenses now so rare it would save that looming problem too.
I did see in the Haynes manual that Ford swapped the heater hoses around after 1991, I wonder why and if that makes a difference, can't think why it should.
Yes, Kent in permanent Hose pipe ban!
Hmmmmmmm.
I reckoned with mine that it was the gauge giving a high reading so fitted a variable resistor which is set to show a reading just below the red when the fan cuts in. When I have done 10 miles or so the guage just slowly rises until the fan cuts in and in my opinion it is working hard to cool the engine or at least the enclosed engine bay.Thermostat clicks in ok and is new along with the rest of the engine.Previous one ran hot but not so much.
The fan is mounted in front of the rad and probably impedes more air flowing in when it is running when over 25 MPH than doing any good cooling.and,Yes...it is blowing the right way round.
The Rad does not seem to be a problem as constant temp throughout.
I think mine needs more cold air through the front and hence idea about cutting bigger space for grill. As indicator lenses now so rare it would save that looming problem too.
I did see in the Haynes manual that Ford swapped the heater hoses around after 1991, I wonder why and if that makes a difference, can't think why it should.
Yes, Kent in permanent Hose pipe ban!
Hmmmmmmm.
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