Running temps?
Discussion
Just a quick poll to see what sort of running temps you lot have been experiencing. The Can-Am is behaving itself well, with a steady 86 degs. running (in this hot weather we're having), rising to 102-104 where the fans keep it in check. My sender is in the head, so is really a 'worst case' reading I guess.
That said, the fans do run continuously at that temp, so it's a question of holding temp rather than lowering at the moment. May upgrade them to the pacets as I did on the GTR.
Such a joy being able to drive not dreading being caught in traffic!!!
That said, the fans do run continuously at that temp, so it's a question of holding temp rather than lowering at the moment. May upgrade them to the pacets as I did on the GTR.
Such a joy being able to drive not dreading being caught in traffic!!!
Edited by stig on Monday 19th June 13:10
stig said:
Such a joy being able to drive not dreading being caught in traffic!!!
How do you manage that one then? I assume you mean regarding your coolant temperature and not your left leg muscles.
Is 100+ DegC not a bit high for a SBC? Also would you not see higher temperatures if the sendor was in the head or at the top near the thermostat housing. Typically I see around 78DegC when running with good air flow, this only rises when moving slowly or stopped and I have my first fan cut in at 85DegC and the second at 87DegC. So generally the fans will be off until hitting tracfic.
Ive always wanted to know the hotest temp which is the water just before the thermostat so I have my senders in the manifold.
Stig, Why did you choose to have yours in the block?
Last Saturday going to Brands Hatch I was stationary for quite a while on the M25 in 28+ C and the engine had the fans cycling on and off. After a few minutes I decided to turn off the engine as the stop was looking like a long one! No problem restarting and temperatures were fine. The EFI behaved faultlessly - instant start and rock solid idle at all temperatures.
Stig, Why did you choose to have yours in the block?
Last Saturday going to Brands Hatch I was stationary for quite a while on the M25 in 28+ C and the engine had the fans cycling on and off. After a few minutes I decided to turn off the engine as the stop was looking like a long one! No problem restarting and temperatures were fine. The EFI behaved faultlessly - instant start and rock solid idle at all temperatures.
canam-phil said:
Ive always wanted to know the hotest temp which is the water just before the thermostat so I have my senders in the manifold.
Stig, Why did you choose to have yours in the block?
Last Saturday going to Brands Hatch I was stationary for quite a while on the M25 in 28+ C and the engine had the fans cycling on and off. After a few minutes I decided to turn off the engine as the stop was looking like a long one! No problem restarting and temperatures were fine. The EFI behaved faultlessly - instant start and rock solid idle at all temperatures.
Stig, Why did you choose to have yours in the block?
Last Saturday going to Brands Hatch I was stationary for quite a while on the M25 in 28+ C and the engine had the fans cycling on and off. After a few minutes I decided to turn off the engine as the stop was looking like a long one! No problem restarting and temperatures were fine. The EFI behaved faultlessly - instant start and rock solid idle at all temperatures.
Phil - sorry chap, I meant the head, not block!
On my engine, the intake manifold location by the stat. is inaccessible due to the position of the neck of the takeoff - so I used the one in the head by the headers instead.
Also, I'm using a Stack unit/sender which may give a slightly different reading to the VDO guages.
I have done tests on mounting the sender in the head and the intake manifold next to the water exit. I found a difference between the readings of 5 C, head being the lower of course.
Ive even see a difference of 5 to 10 c from one end of the intake manifold to the other.
I would have thought that the temps you are seeing are on the high side for head temperatures given you are using a Stack setup rather than the VDO gauge. I would be a bit concerned if it was mine.
Ive even see a difference of 5 to 10 c from one end of the intake manifold to the other.
I would have thought that the temps you are seeing are on the high side for head temperatures given you are using a Stack setup rather than the VDO gauge. I would be a bit concerned if it was mine.
I've now fitted the Pacets so am seeing 86 normal running with the fans coming in at 90.
In traffic on Saturday (hotter than Sunday) when the fans came in it stayed at 90. This would not have happened before, it would have continued to climb until it boiled.
I have also fitted one of the old fans in the oil cooler side pod but have not completed the wiring so can offer no figures on any improvement this may make.
Steve
In traffic on Saturday (hotter than Sunday) when the fans came in it stayed at 90. This would not have happened before, it would have continued to climb until it boiled.
I have also fitted one of the old fans in the oil cooler side pod but have not completed the wiring so can offer no figures on any improvement this may make.
Steve
82 deg C with senders (VDO plus GM for EFI) in heads during normal running. Using Pacet fans and water wetter. Will go to 85-90 deg C eventually if stationary but no higher provided fans on. I always use manual fan switch, my thermoswitch in radiator won't kick in until 95 C or so. I used to have an apparent airlock problem, but fixed this by raising the swirl pot a little bit - also with EFI mod I got a manifold with rear water ports from which I have run an air bleed line to the swirl pot. This seems to further stabilise water temperature.
There's a high likelihood that I've got a bit of an airlock as I had to fix a leak on my heater valve on Saturday (and the valuve is right by the blower). I ran the car with the heater circuit on, but not for long. Will check tonight when it's nice and cold and take it from there.
I'm happy that it's not a problem, but prefer a belt and braces approach, so may upgrade the fans anyway to play it safe.
I'm happy that it's not a problem, but prefer a belt and braces approach, so may upgrade the fans anyway to play it safe.
I hit 100 driving slowly into Knebworth on the weekend, and I use 50% glycol and some water wetter.
I suspect my sender is in the head as well, but I'll try to confirm the exact location.
I've raised both my Swirl and expansion pots in order to accomodate the heat exchanger, so what affect that might have I'm not sure, but at least my flow is not going thru any U turns.
I'll defintately be wiring in a fan switch though, and a buzzer at 95-100 as it's not much fun going from nice air con to blasting heat in a stuffy cockpit!
I suspect my sender is in the head as well, but I'll try to confirm the exact location.
I've raised both my Swirl and expansion pots in order to accomodate the heat exchanger, so what affect that might have I'm not sure, but at least my flow is not going thru any U turns.
I'll defintately be wiring in a fan switch though, and a buzzer at 95-100 as it's not much fun going from nice air con to blasting heat in a stuffy cockpit!
Haha! Good thread Stig. I bet this runs to several pages 
My fans come on at just under 90c. I fitted a new thermoswitch set at 85c so can only assume the coolant has dropped a few degrees by the time it reaches the rad?
Even with my new ali rad and uprated fans, they are not capable of pulling the temp down once in traffic, but at least it does not go any higher!
I do find that a fan on the oil cooler does help it idle better when stationary. A better solution would be to get cold air straight to the inlet manifold, like the EFI boys have done
My fans come on at just under 90c. I fitted a new thermoswitch set at 85c so can only assume the coolant has dropped a few degrees by the time it reaches the rad?
Even with my new ali rad and uprated fans, they are not capable of pulling the temp down once in traffic, but at least it does not go any higher!
I do find that a fan on the oil cooler does help it idle better when stationary. A better solution would be to get cold air straight to the inlet manifold, like the EFI boys have done
Edited by gtr-gaz on Monday 19th June 15:45
very interesting post stig ,have you blocked the top vent on the can-am ? mine runs at 85 most of the time rising to 90 ish when in traffic but it has never been a issue until saturday when i blocked top vent to stop fumes coming into cockpit made a hugh differance had to stop in the end and take it out before i got home temps were up to 100+ ,one thing i also noticed is i don,t run any heat shield on the inside of my clip this i think helps release the heat buildup under the clip ,i'm starting to think that the heat buildup under the rear clip is the main cause of the problem . simon
tuxman said:
very interesting post stig ,have you blocked the top vent on the can-am ? mine runs at 85 most of the time rising to 90 ish when in traffic but it has never been a issue until saturday when i blocked top vent to stop fumes coming into cockpit made a hugh differance had to stop in the end and take it out before i got home temps were up to 100+ ,one thing i also noticed is i don,t run any heat shield on the inside of my clip this i think helps release the heat buildup under the clip ,i'm starting to think that the heat buildup under the rear clip is the main cause of the problem . simon
Hi Simon,
The factory blocked the top vent when it went up for SVA. I may remove it, but realise that you can then get fumes/heat wash. I'm going to re-bleed the system and see what that does. It's not that it overheats, but I think the experience of my GTR has made me take a belt and braces approach with it!
yep the heat wash out the top vent is a problem i,m going to make a heat shield to sit in the roll bar (same shape) to reflect the heat away ,the main difference with the vent blocked was the air temp in the clip it was the highest i've ever seen it 66 degrees as soon as i unblocked the vent it droped 10 degrees very quickly !!!! still work to be done i think .simon
To play safe, I've ordered a replacement pair of Pacet Thinlines, but have gone for 11" versions not 10". These fit fine if you remove the ally brackets. I'll use the Pacet fan fixings instead.
For comparison, the standard Tripac's flow 575 CFM each - so total air movement of 1150 CFM.
The Pacets move a whopping 2360 CFM as a pair! I almost went for the Profans (which move 2484 CFM), but you need to remove the grill really to do this and they draw almost 6 amps more as a pair.
I'm going to re-use the redundant Tripacs under the rear clip to evac. hot air. I don't want to cermachrome the exhausts if i can help it (they look too nice at the mo), so this should help. Location wise, I think I'll only be able to use one, sat between the exhausts tails. Will have to convert from pull to push though.
That's the trouble with these cars, you constantly fiddle with them even when there's nothing wrong!
For comparison, the standard Tripac's flow 575 CFM each - so total air movement of 1150 CFM.
The Pacets move a whopping 2360 CFM as a pair! I almost went for the Profans (which move 2484 CFM), but you need to remove the grill really to do this and they draw almost 6 amps more as a pair.
I'm going to re-use the redundant Tripacs under the rear clip to evac. hot air. I don't want to cermachrome the exhausts if i can help it (they look too nice
at the mo), so this should help. Location wise, I think I'll only be able to use one, sat between the exhausts tails. Will have to convert from pull to push though. That's the trouble with these cars, you constantly fiddle with them even when there's nothing wrong!
Hey Stig,
have you got the model number of the fans you ordered? and where you get them from?
I think I'll be defintaly fitting a manual override switch this weekend, and since I no longer have the air oil cooler blocking up the left hand air duct, I get even more cool air in that side with the old fans...
have you got the model number of the fans you ordered? and where you get them from?
I think I'll be defintaly fitting a manual override switch this weekend, and since I no longer have the air oil cooler blocking up the left hand air duct, I get even more cool air in that side with the old fans...
stig said:
I'm going to re-use the redundant Tripacs under the rear clip to evac. hot air...... Location wise, I think I'll only be able to use one, sat between the exhausts tails. Will have to convert from pull to push though......
I tried this position the other day and found the 10" will not fit because the gear shift is in the way but your Getrac may overcome this. I think an 8" or 9" would fit either side of the gearbox tail but would need to be this small due to the Accusump on one side and the shift rods on the other.
Steve
peterpsg said:
Hey Stig,
have you got the model number of the fans you ordered? and where you get them from?
I think I'll be defintaly fitting a manual override switch this weekend, and since I no longer have the air oil cooler blocking up the left hand air duct, I get even more cool air in that side with the old fans...
have you got the model number of the fans you ordered? and where you get them from?
I think I'll be defintaly fitting a manual override switch this weekend, and since I no longer have the air oil cooler blocking up the left hand air duct, I get even more cool air in that side with the old fans...
Ordered direct from Pacet as they are only a few miles away from where I live. You can get them through Demon Tweeks though. Part number is CF1111 for the 11" versions or CF1011 for the 10" version (these flow 902CFM each).
I've already got the override switch, but haven't needed to use it as yet. As I said, I'm doing this to satisfy my own paranoia (probably completely unnecessarily!) rather than it being a problem.
I replaced my fans with 11" Pacets Thinlines (2360CFm vs. 1150CFM of the standard Tripacs) and the car now holds a stead 85 when driving, rising to max. 99-100 in traffic, fans cut in, temps drop to indicated 95 (I reckon the Stack over-reads slightly having tested the temps at the rad with a thermal gun) and fans cut out again - so indicated 95 on the Stack is more like 85 in the rad
That was in yesterday's high ambients too.
Mine's not the most powerful motor out there, but given it's in a Can-Am with the top scoop blocked, I'm happy
That was in yesterday's high ambients too.
Mine's not the most powerful motor out there, but given it's in a Can-Am with the top scoop blocked, I'm happy
Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff