ELECTRICAL PROBLEM S2 2.9
Discussion
Car won't go!!. Car started OK but then during a period of only about a mile stuttered 3 or 4 times as if cutting out and then came to a stop - very sad as it was a great day. I thought maybe it could be fuel as I know the gauges are not that reliable (showing half full anyway) so I put some in but still wouldn't have it. In the end I had to be recovered by Ivan Stacey in Twyford Hants. I asked them if they could look at the fault which they have done and it would appear to be electrical. My pocket is already feeling the pinch. Thay have discovered that there is no power to the pump but by putting a live feed to the pump it is working OK. They say they have checked the fuse and relay and they seem to be fine. They are now saying that they will have to bring in a sparky to find the fault. Has anyone out there had a similar problem and resolved it without spending hours (and much dosh!) trying to find the fault. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks for your help guys. The immobilser is installed. The light does go out however when activated and the engine does turnover ok. Could this still be an immobiliser fault? I have thought about running a seperate feed but was a bit scared incase there is a burnt wire in the original system which might get worse. Is this possible?
I know how you feel, after having to be recovered by the AA Thursday night with a similar problem.
In my case, the engine cut when driving. The engine would turn over, but it would not fire. I had lost power to the instruments, as the speedo was stuck at 45mph. All fuses checked out OK, but measuring the power on the + terminal of the coil only showed 2v. Also power at the rev counter and speedo was low (check at connectors behind the dash)
I checked the ignition fuse (15A) again, it was fine, and probing the fuse connections in the fuse block, one side was 12v the other 0v, as expected, BUT when I put the fuse back in, both sides were 2v (??). I checked other circuits, like the reversing lights, and these were fine so power was getting to the fuse block. I fiddled with the wires behind the fuse block and it fired up. I think my problem was a bad crimp termination at the ignition fuse. To make sure, I have soldered the wire termination to the crimp in the fuse block.
All voltages are fine now and it runs.
Also, I previously had a problem where the speedo would increase about 10mph when the heater fan was on full. After all this fiddling with the electrics, it is now rock solid.
Make sure you have the bible for the circuits, and you will also find that the wire colours are not always as expected, it keeps you guessing.
Pete
In my case, the engine cut when driving. The engine would turn over, but it would not fire. I had lost power to the instruments, as the speedo was stuck at 45mph. All fuses checked out OK, but measuring the power on the + terminal of the coil only showed 2v. Also power at the rev counter and speedo was low (check at connectors behind the dash)
I checked the ignition fuse (15A) again, it was fine, and probing the fuse connections in the fuse block, one side was 12v the other 0v, as expected, BUT when I put the fuse back in, both sides were 2v (??). I checked other circuits, like the reversing lights, and these were fine so power was getting to the fuse block. I fiddled with the wires behind the fuse block and it fired up. I think my problem was a bad crimp termination at the ignition fuse. To make sure, I have soldered the wire termination to the crimp in the fuse block.
All voltages are fine now and it runs.
Also, I previously had a problem where the speedo would increase about 10mph when the heater fan was on full. After all this fiddling with the electrics, it is now rock solid.
Make sure you have the bible for the circuits, and you will also find that the wire colours are not always as expected, it keeps you guessing.
Pete
A few quick tips to help diagnose your problems, assuming is is a 2.9 with electronic injection.
The engine harness has 2 relays, located in the loom in the passenger foot well. The brown one is the ignition relay and applies power to the ECU, injectors, and fuel pump relay when the ignition is swithced on, the yellow one is fuel pump relay which switches power on/off to the fuel pump.
1) When you switch on your ignition, you should be able to hear the brown relay click as it switches on. This relay should switch on/off as you use the ignition key to switch on/off.
If this is not happening, then the fault is between the ignition switch and relay coil.
also pull the relay and check the power to the coil is OK, it's the small pair of pins, as the relay could be stuck. (This happened to me also)
2) If the brown relay is switching, the yellow one should pulse on to power the fuel pump. Pull the relay and check for a pulse of voltage on the coil contacts of the socket as the ignition is switched on. If this is OK, but you do not hear the fuel pump go, then try jumping across the large contacts of the relay socket with a bit of wire whilst the ignition is ON, this should get the fuel pump running.
If you get power to the relay, and the pump runs when the relay socket is jumped across, then check the relay. Again these can stick.
3) When the ingition is switched on, check for 12v on the + terminal of the coil. Coul be a fuse problem. See my previous post.
I've spent all weekend sorting my ignition problems, give me a shout if you need any tips
Pete
The engine harness has 2 relays, located in the loom in the passenger foot well. The brown one is the ignition relay and applies power to the ECU, injectors, and fuel pump relay when the ignition is swithced on, the yellow one is fuel pump relay which switches power on/off to the fuel pump.
1) When you switch on your ignition, you should be able to hear the brown relay click as it switches on. This relay should switch on/off as you use the ignition key to switch on/off.
If this is not happening, then the fault is between the ignition switch and relay coil.
also pull the relay and check the power to the coil is OK, it's the small pair of pins, as the relay could be stuck. (This happened to me also)
2) If the brown relay is switching, the yellow one should pulse on to power the fuel pump. Pull the relay and check for a pulse of voltage on the coil contacts of the socket as the ignition is switched on. If this is OK, but you do not hear the fuel pump go, then try jumping across the large contacts of the relay socket with a bit of wire whilst the ignition is ON, this should get the fuel pump running.
If you get power to the relay, and the pump runs when the relay socket is jumped across, then check the relay. Again these can stick.
3) When the ingition is switched on, check for 12v on the + terminal of the coil. Coul be a fuse problem. See my previous post.
I've spent all weekend sorting my ignition problems, give me a shout if you need any tips
Pete
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