Clutch master cylinder.....

[mr dann]

I was noticing that my clutch pedal required more "press" to disengage the clutch than usual and then it had problems with disengaging it totally. I've just been out for a burn and had to do clutchless changes as the thing doesn't work. I figure the M/C has blown up, how much of a hassle are these to change? From what I remember they are a nightmare....

Stu

[Extra 300 Driver]

Any signs of fluid around the pedal? Also have you checked the slave?

[GTRMikie]

Just bleeding the system and replacing the old fluid may cure this - it did for me anyway!

[cooperman]

mr dann said:

I was noticing that my clutch pedal required more "press" to disengage the clutch than usual and then it had problems with disengaging it totally. I've just been out for a burn and had to do clutchless changes as the thing doesn't work. I figure the M/C has blown up, how much of a hassle are these to change? From what I remember they are a nightmare.... Stu

Hi Stu,

The master cylinders can be a problem with access to the clevis pin under the dash.
You need to be a bit 'double-jointed' to get access. Tools needed are a good pair of slim long-nosed pliars, a good torch plus, if the clevis pin drops down the box-section, a magnetic probe! It's not too difficult and when re-fitting you can use an 'R-Pin' instead of a split pin to make it easier to re-fit (and easier to get apart again).
Of course, it might be the slave cylinder and this is more likely really. If it were me I would change the slave first, bleed it out and try it and then, if that doesn't work, change the master.

Peter

[kleaky88]

Bloody master cylinders!!

Not only are the nuts pointlessly stupid to get to they then shove a clevis pin behind three pedals with minimal space to get in. Its got to be the easiest job on a mini in theory. But in practice its a right sod. It took me ages to get the clevis pin out when I did mine, then just as long to get it back in. I am 6 ft 4 tho.

Its a fun job and the bleeding is simple, but approach it with the mindset that its gonna be frustrating. Then when you dislocate your shoulder six times you'll just laugh. Good contortionist training tho.

[cooperman]

You should try changing a master cylinder on a wet night in a dark service area on the Welsh International Rally in the late 60's with less than 30 minutes in which to complete it without penalties. It's possible - just!!!!

[tim-d]

Oddly I've never found this much of a headache - I'm 6'6"! the split pin in the clevis pin is a sod but some long reach cranked needle nose pliers do the job - refurb kits are easily available but do both master (option of two types) & slave at the same time (once master done slave seems to go shortly after & visa versa and I never seem to have the knack of easy bleeding sytems so its always a sod) - pay close attention to the assembly of the seals - I got them round the wrong way once - result no joy & much aggravation, taking the drivers seat out is recommended by some but I've never found it necessary - although I did have a sunroof - removed for the purpose! a torch (on headband or glasses type handy too)- using an R clip to reassemble is eminently sensible in preference to a paperclip (lasted for years) and if it hasn't been apart for a while a new clevis pin is guaranteed to be required!
Slave is an absolute doddle but I've never had one with the specified circlip in it!
In closing I bet you'll find a severely corroded master cylinder base plate too!
Prophet of gloom & doom................................