Wiring for Starter Button
Discussion
If you have Cut the White/Red cable from the ignition switch curcuit to use it for the button. Then the brown cable should then go to a Ignition Live. The White/Red cable goes to the Relay Coil for the starter, so when given 12v will pull in the starter relay. So the brown is the supply for the starter button....
Hope thats not to much info Gray......
Hope thats not to much info Gray......
I was going to ask the factory this question - but hey, why not look dumb in front of far more people ? I'm trying to test my electrics before final fit of the cockpit and I'm a bit stumped by the starter circuitry. I haven't got the engine etc. in as yet so the starter circuit isn't complete as such. Has anyone done a test on the starter (using the button) circuit like this ? How can I prove it's working OK before I rivet that cockpit ?
Doing this from memory as I’m at work.
The red/white will go live when the button is pushed or the ignition switch turned to the start position depending how you have wired it.
This then activates relay 6 which will pass a higher current to the starter solenoid. Again from memory this is also red/white.
Back at the starter there are two wires the heavy cable I assume will be OK having come direct from the battery. The red/white can be tested using a meter or hanging a bulb between it and earth. A headlight bulb, rather than the meter, will prove it is able to take some current. It will light when you go for start.
A good tip for this stage of testing is to put a 15amp inline fuse between the battery and either the + or – wires. Minus is easier as there is likely only one connection over to the chassis. If you have a short somewhere this fuse will blow rather than fry the loom. If you only test one circuit at a time 15 amp will be OK but you may need to bump it up when doing the headlights.
Steve
The red/white will go live when the button is pushed or the ignition switch turned to the start position depending how you have wired it.
This then activates relay 6 which will pass a higher current to the starter solenoid. Again from memory this is also red/white.
Back at the starter there are two wires the heavy cable I assume will be OK having come direct from the battery. The red/white can be tested using a meter or hanging a bulb between it and earth. A headlight bulb, rather than the meter, will prove it is able to take some current. It will light when you go for start.
A good tip for this stage of testing is to put a 15amp inline fuse between the battery and either the + or – wires. Minus is easier as there is likely only one connection over to the chassis. If you have a short somewhere this fuse will blow rather than fry the loom. If you only test one circuit at a time 15 amp will be OK but you may need to bump it up when doing the headlights.
Steve
In the absence of any help from the factory until Monday, I wonder if I could get some assistance from the forum whizkids. I finally got round to testing the starter circuitry, only using the actual starter mounted on the adapter plate. I connected the wiring up (thick brown loom wire and thicker red battery cable to the starter 'post', red/white loom via connector) and earthed the adaptor plate (I didn't bolt the adapter plate to the engine, just wired it to a good earthing point). I ensured the starter live post was not touching any chassis, yet when I touch the two starter button wires together I keep getting a short. What am I doing wrong ?
First off, the other end of that loom brown wire goes to the alternator. Be careful that that is not shorting on the chassis or you will fry the wire, it will short irrespective of whether the button is pushed or not. Personally I'd take that wire off the starter for now or make sure the alternator end is well taped up. I almost set fire to my loom under similar circumstances when building the car when the earth return wire to the (unfitted) door switches found a nice juicy unfused battery positive to play with!
Why do you think you have a short are you blowing a fuse? If so which one? That should give a clue where to look.
You might also check this - taped into the loom near the connectors for the ignition key-switch you will find another red / white wire that the manual show no connection to. Make sure that this is not earthing as this is connected to the same wire that goes to the rear of the push button starter switch - in a former life it would have been used to give a start function on the ignition key-switch, it is clearly shown on gtrclives wiring diagram.It should really be properly capped off but it is not.
>> Edited by Rubi on Friday 5th May 22:25
Why do you think you have a short are you blowing a fuse? If so which one? That should give a clue where to look.
You might also check this - taped into the loom near the connectors for the ignition key-switch you will find another red / white wire that the manual show no connection to. Make sure that this is not earthing as this is connected to the same wire that goes to the rear of the push button starter switch - in a former life it would have been used to give a start function on the ignition key-switch, it is clearly shown on gtrclives wiring diagram.It should really be properly capped off but it is not.
>> Edited by Rubi on Friday 5th May 22:25
Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff