Cool Aluminium
Discussion
Collected my new Rad and Swirl pot from Pace Products today. New rad is half the weight of the old one. Which is just as well cos I have the pre-rad for my chargecooler to go in front of it. New swirl pot on the left is a mirror image of the old one as it will be mounted on the oposite side. They also swaged some of the water pipes for me. Both coolant pipes will run through the right side pod. The quality is excellent. The rad has a more efficient core but it is the same externally as the old one, so its a straight swap.
Regards Dave
www.v8yes.co.uk
Regards Dave
www.v8yes.co.uk
very nice dave!
has pace given you any ideas as to how long before the water in your chargcooler set up satarts to suffer heat soak???
i have seen an Evo with a MASSIVE PWR pre rad (the same if not bigger than the engine rad!!!!) and they said 15min top before the water is hot!!!
Thanks Chris.
PS. parts look amazing! how much was the rad if you dont mind me asking??
has pace given you any ideas as to how long before the water in your chargcooler set up satarts to suffer heat soak???
i have seen an Evo with a MASSIVE PWR pre rad (the same if not bigger than the engine rad!!!!) and they said 15min top before the water is hot!!!
Thanks Chris.
PS. parts look amazing! how much was the rad if you dont mind me asking??
Hi Chris
The Rad cost £470+vat.
Not worried too much about heat soak. The pre-rad will be three inches in front of the main rad. Also no engine behind the rad, just two very powerful fans at my command. The fins on the pre-rad elements will be more open than on the main rad to assist the air flow. Air from the right side pod will also be forced to flow around the chargecooler.
Regards Dave
The Rad cost £470+vat.
Not worried too much about heat soak. The pre-rad will be three inches in front of the main rad. Also no engine behind the rad, just two very powerful fans at my command. The fins on the pre-rad elements will be more open than on the main rad to assist the air flow. Air from the right side pod will also be forced to flow around the chargecooler.
Regards Dave
Interesting, I'm making some copper cored chargecoolers sitting in a cast aluminium housing. The idea will be to have extra internal space for core changes but I'm using small cores. Hopefully they won't have time to warm up
£470 for the rad is quite reasonable, what size is it? I'm going to use a copper rad myself.
Boosted.
£470 for the rad is quite reasonable, what size is it? I'm going to use a copper rad myself. Boosted.
Hi Mike
Rad is 800x300x80mm.
Hi Elliot
Air to air with the Can-Am was not really going to be an option. But I did consider a small one inside the side pod. I'll see how things go for now with the chargecooler. I'm sure the car will keep developing(water injection, NOS and CO2 etc). I'll just keep it real for now and in budget. In budget
who am I kidding.
Regards Dave
Rad is 800x300x80mm.
Hi Elliot
Air to air with the Can-Am was not really going to be an option. But I did consider a small one inside the side pod. I'll see how things go for now with the chargecooler. I'm sure the car will keep developing(water injection, NOS and CO2 etc). I'll just keep it real for now and in budget. In budget
who am I kidding. Regards Dave
eliot said:
At speed an air to air will always perform better than an air-water.
>> Edited by eliot on Wednesday 29th March 22:00
Forgetting packaging problems I can't see how air to air can be better. Water is meant to be 7 times better at conducting heat so all you need is a decent rad up front with a truly huge exit behind it. Well, that's what I'm banking on
Boosted.
CanAm Dave said:
Hi Mike
Rad is 800x300x80mm.
Hi Elliot
Air to air with the Can-Am was not really going to be an option. But I did consider a small one inside the side pod. I'll see how things go for now with the chargecooler. I'm sure the car will keep developing(water injection, NOS and CO2 etc). I'll just keep it real for now and in budget. In budgetwho am I kidding.
Regards Dave
Thanks Dave,
My cores are quite tiddley but I'm hoping that being small in surface area they won't have time for any heat soak ie, the cold water will be coarsing through them quite quickly. The radiator will be quite big!
Boosted.
i guess you never really know how long the system will stay cold for (hard running conditions WILL heat the water up!!)! how big is your pre rad dave????
i know the mangy superchargers that the vette guys (and crafty!
) run have pretty small pre rads but the do heat up very quickly!
also dave, what size water tank are you going to be running??? i hear the bigger the better!
Thanks Chris.
i know the mangy superchargers that the vette guys (and crafty!
) run have pretty small pre rads but the do heat up very quickly! also dave, what size water tank are you going to be running??? i hear the bigger the better!
Thanks Chris.
Boosted LS1 said:
Forgetting packaging problems I can't see how air to air can be better. Water is meant to be 7 times better at conducting heat so all you need is a decent rad up front with a truly huge exit behind it. Well, that's what I'm banking on![]()
Boosted.
Yes, if you can get a steady supply of cool water - then it will out perform a/a - but that's the problem, the water heats up very quickly. Ive done the datalogging to prove it: www.mez.co.uk/turbo12.html
Think about it, you have two sets of inefficiencies the air to water unit and then the pre-rad, whereas air/air only has one set of efficiences. A big pre-rad should solve it, which is what i'm trying at the moment.
here is the size of the pre rad used on a sprint/hillclimb Evo.
www.lancerregister.com/reg_cardetails.php?carid=1123
chris.
www.lancerregister.com/reg_cardetails.php?carid=1123
chris.
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