clutch problems....anybody....bueller.....anybody....?
Discussion
sorry for the obscure film reference...anyway, I have recently become unable to engage any gears in the S - the clutch pedal has now got a great deal of play in it (6-7" perhaps) and I only meet resistance when I press it the final 2" or so before it hits the carpet. thus, the clutch is not fully disengaging, and this is preventing me from changing gear (and making me start off in stopped traffic by turning the engine off engaging first and bumping it on the starter motor) or at least forcing me to change gear without using the clutch.
so, I was wondering what could be causing this? I suspect something has gradually come loose, or that the seals might be knackered but mike replaced the slave...hmm difficult question, so I turn to the might of PH to help me out!
thank you!
Tom
so, I was wondering what could be causing this? I suspect something has gradually come loose, or that the seals might be knackered but mike replaced the slave...hmm difficult question, so I turn to the might of PH to help me out!
thank you!
Tom
What about........just a thought.... if the bleeding trial doesn't work, adjusting the slave itself. It's a long shot, but as it had only been in a couple of hundred miles prior to you having the car, it may need a little tweakery. Try the nuts themselves, 14mm off the top of my head, but you do need arms of a gibbon and fingers of a gaenacologist. Make sure the exhaust isnt hot either.
that 'urts.Hi Miniman
Last time I saw you online was when we were both in the mini forums and you were helping me with a bent sub-frame haha
I wonder why so many mini drivers buy a S as their next car??? Because we are cleverest in the world I reckon.
I've just had to change both master and slave on mine. In theory its simple....... well its simple if you buy the right cylinders' in the first place unlike me who tried to save money and avoid buying anything from tvrcarparts.
I got a girling master from Burtons first. Looked perfect, only one digit wrong on the casting number but it wasn't till I got home I realised that it was for 1/8 brake lines where the S uses 1/4 inch.
Tried to bodge it by drilling out the union but couldn't keep the hole central enough.
Got one from TVR Power in the end
And the slave which was perfect came of me dads griff which was a AP job, This also came from TVR Power.
My advice to you would be spend 100 odd quid getting the right cylinder instead of driving all over the place trying to save a few quid.
But at least Im really good at flaring brake lines now haha
Oh and when bleeding the easiest way is to crack the bleed valve with a small ratchet, then quickly nip it with your fingers. It wont leak unless you pressurise the system with an easy bleed kit.
Good luck
Last time I saw you online was when we were both in the mini forums and you were helping me with a bent sub-frame haha
I wonder why so many mini drivers buy a S as their next car??? Because we are cleverest in the world I reckon.
I've just had to change both master and slave on mine. In theory its simple....... well its simple if you buy the right cylinders' in the first place unlike me who tried to save money and avoid buying anything from tvrcarparts.
I got a girling master from Burtons first. Looked perfect, only one digit wrong on the casting number but it wasn't till I got home I realised that it was for 1/8 brake lines where the S uses 1/4 inch.
Tried to bodge it by drilling out the union but couldn't keep the hole central enough.
Got one from TVR Power in the end
And the slave which was perfect came of me dads griff which was a AP job, This also came from TVR Power.
My advice to you would be spend 100 odd quid getting the right cylinder instead of driving all over the place trying to save a few quid.
But at least Im really good at flaring brake lines now haha
Oh and when bleeding the easiest way is to crack the bleed valve with a small ratchet, then quickly nip it with your fingers. It wont leak unless you pressurise the system with an easy bleed kit.
Good luck
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