engine runnig in procedure.
Discussion
love machine said:
re torque the head bolts and see what she'll do.
The recheck the valve clearances.
My engine builder told me to run some cheap oil for the first 1000miles, changing it and the filter at 250 and 500miles. This is to promote the bearings bedding in. In his opinion the newer, modern, oils are not suited to A series engines with very little run time.
My run in procedure
Turn the engine over until you have good oil pressure
Then run the engine, look at the oil pressure and keep the RPM above 1500 for its first run
When you are driving it change the oil at 250 miles and keep the rpm below 3500, oil and filter at 500 miles, keeping the rpm below 4750 and oil and filter again at 1000 miles. At 1000 replace the oil with good quality oil and go for it.
Although I kept to the rpm limits I was told to give it a boot full now and again to stop the bores glazing over.
I hope this helps
That's good advice, except that I don't like the 'cheap oil' bit.
I never use a synthetic in an 'A-Series', although I may be a bit old fashioned there. I use a good 15/50 for running in, like the Morris Oils 'Multivis' and change it at 250 for the first change. For normal running I stick with the Multivis 15/50 or Valvoline Racing 20/50, both of which are great.
The recommended 10/40 as advised for the later cars is, IMHO, too thin for a combined engine/gearbox, especially when you realise that ideally the box should have EP80 gear oil.
I never use a synthetic in an 'A-Series', although I may be a bit old fashioned there. I use a good 15/50 for running in, like the Morris Oils 'Multivis' and change it at 250 for the first change. For normal running I stick with the Multivis 15/50 or Valvoline Racing 20/50, both of which are great.
The recommended 10/40 as advised for the later cars is, IMHO, too thin for a combined engine/gearbox, especially when you realise that ideally the box should have EP80 gear oil.
Cooperman said:
That's good advice, except that I don't like the 'cheap oil' bit.
I never use a synthetic in an 'A-Series', although I may be a bit old fashioned there. I use a good 15/50 for running in, like the Morris Oils 'Multivis' and change it at 250 for the first change. For normal running I stick with the Multivis 15/50 or Valvoline Racing 20/50, both of which are great.
The recommended 10/40 as advised for the later cars is, IMHO, too thin for a combined engine/gearbox, especially when you realise that ideally the box should have EP80 gear oil.
I was told once or twice can't remember where that the diff and syncros aren't happy with fully synthetic.
Cooperman said:
That's good advice, except that I don't like the 'cheap oil' bit.
I never use a synthetic in an 'A-Series', although I may be a bit old fashioned there. I use a good 15/50 for running in, like the Morris Oils 'Multivis' and change it at 250 for the first change. For normal running I stick with the Multivis 15/50 or Valvoline Racing 20/50, both of which are great.
The recommended 10/40 as advised for the later cars is, IMHO, too thin for a combined engine/gearbox, especially when you realise that ideally the box should have EP80 gear oil.
I think when he said cheap he meant 'Old school' oil.
Just come in from working on mine. After the very comprehensive re-build I found it difficult to start from cold. So, this evening it was another set of BP6ES plugs, new condenser, new points and a new sports coil. That sorted it. With a rally car you just can't take any chances. How I wish Historic rallying allowed solid state ignition.
So, now it's running in time with the completely new engine and its Karl Schmidt pistons. I usually keep below 4000 for the first 200 miles, then 4500 for the next 150, then change the oil & filter, tighten down and do the valve clearances, then 5000 for the next 150, then gradually lean towards full throttle and 5500 until, at about 750 I have it re-set on the rollers. I hope I have about 117 bhp now at the flywheel as I had 115 at 1293 cc and now it's 1310 cc.
So, now it's running in time with the completely new engine and its Karl Schmidt pistons. I usually keep below 4000 for the first 200 miles, then 4500 for the next 150, then change the oil & filter, tighten down and do the valve clearances, then 5000 for the next 150, then gradually lean towards full throttle and 5500 until, at about 750 I have it re-set on the rollers. I hope I have about 117 bhp now at the flywheel as I had 115 at 1293 cc and now it's 1310 cc.
I seem to recall that if you have built the engine fresh, so to speak, it's good practice to run it at a steady 3500-4000 rpm from intial start up to allow the cam lobes to wear in.
Apparently at idle you can incurr problems with "straining the lobes" and shorten the life of the cam
No doubt someone better qualified than I will be along in a bit...
Chris
Apparently at idle you can incurr problems with "straining the lobes" and shorten the life of the cam
No doubt someone better qualified than I will be along in a bit...
Chris
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