Manifold time, V8S

[z_chromozone]

It’s finally got around to the time where I am ready to tackle my manifolds. Can anyone recommend which gaskets to use, and which type of sealing compound. I know that lots of different gasket sets exist.

Secondly, is there a gasket between the manifolds and the “drainpipe” section, or is it just a flange and sealer job.

Thirdly, are there any magic ways of getting the bolts out, or do I have to embark upon another unsponsored swear-a-thon.

Many thanks,
Z

[Wildfire]

I got mine for the Griff from ACT as Tim said the standard ones are not so good. They sell uprdated ones. Excellent stuff, kept a good seal with a little High temp rtv. Even when all bolts loosend themselves after a month!

I can reccomend High temp rtv, and copper grease when putting back on. As far as getting the bolts off, I'm not sure about the V8S, but having and extra joint in your arm, or being plastic man helps a lot.

On a more serious note grease on the hand can help alot as it helps with the;

"Lunch time!"

"Be out later, got my arm/hand stuck between the engine and the Chassis."

Although I did replace my gaskets without removing the exhaust or down pipes.

>> Edited by Wildfire on Thursday 9th March 11:03

[V8Smith]

Z, I recommend you go for the ACT smaller bore manifolds which help power and a slightly better noise! Sorry cant help with the gaskets question, I dodnt fit them myself.

Mike

[GreenV8S]

The best gaskets are the twin steel composite gaskets, you can get them from RPI and various other sources. I find that a 72-point ratchet ring spanner makes it much easier to get the manifold bolts off. You could consider using K head stainless steel bolts when you refit them, these have a smaller head which makes it much easier to get the bolt in the hole and the spanner on the bolt. Peninsula or (I think) TVRCarParts sell these.

[s1.5f]

Peter excuse my ignorance but what do K-head bolts look like (apart from Ks of course)?

[GreenV8S]

Imagine a bolt with a small head, and a washer under the head. That's the shape of a K-head bolt (it's all one piece of course).

[honourablepickle]

k bolts are like normal flanged bolts but with a smaller head than the standard size
i bought some wicked stainless ones years ago for a rover lump which were TRX-star
i think they were from real steel - pukka bolts with nice thick flanges
about £50 but that was 5 - 6 years ago
alternatively studs and k nuts are also a good option - you can get self locking k nuts in titanium if you are feeling flush : )
reb

[z_chromozone]

Thanks for all those replies.

I am hoping that the manifolds can be welded up rather than needing replacing altogether, but I will bear the smaller diameter pipes in mind if it comes to that.

Thanks for the k-bolt suggestion, I had not thought of that.

I was wondering about the stainless thing. Is stainless steel not capable of galvanic reaction with aluminium………………………..

Answer to own question (after a little internet activity):

18-8 grade stainless will not corrode in contact with aluminium.

Z